Quoting: Roadkill
*
Buy / Replace battery (purchase lined up for this month) DONE
*
Buy / install (exterior) battery kill switch (purchase lined up for this month) (98% DONE)
* Remove existing exhaust system (long story - I think I've explained ?)
* Measure up for new pipes / design new stubby pipes
* Buy / make remaining bits needed for exhaust (bends, straights & flanges)
* TiG together and install
* Fit Sensors to exhaust, run wiring inside of car
* install both controllers inside car in accessible position, wire up
*
Remove D/S A-pillar cover, test fit new triple-pod pillar, test fit gauges DONE
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Install 2 x A/F gauges, 1 x vac gauge to pods, run lines, install pillar DONE
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Replace manual fuel pressure gauge under bonnet with take-off DONE
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Install fuel pressure gauge in car, run lines to take-off and wire up - 75%
* Remove clutch pedal, mark up for cutting (it's never been right)
* cut/weld clutch pedal, paint and replace
* Remove rear harness points - STARTED
* Design and make strengthened harness points
* Paint and replace
* Trim (and cap) bolts protruding on the underside of car (under seats)
* POR15 missed areas under wheel arches
* Front wheel liners (what to do)
* Repair hood (I'll need to have a strengthening plate made, too)
* Respray hood (got the paint already)
* Investigate gauges (some behave oddly)
* Time / tune
* MoT & Tax
* Try not to crash it !!
Updated.
That list isn't very fair, as it doesn't show all the work that was involved in fitting the "kill switch" . . . originally I'd planned to fit it on the (-) side of the battery so it just breaks the circuit when switched off but, on doing extensive reading, decided to install it as per the NHRA guidelines on the (+) side so the switch actually kills the car when running . . this meant running a second cable the full length of the car, as well as other alterations.
This
isn't for racing purposes, more for peace of mind, security and to reduce the risk of killing the battery while in storage. This set-up still leaves the alternator "live" when the switch is off but that's all.
Quoting: Roadkill
On a completely separate note, I've also bought a pair of black fishnet tights . .
. . more on that, later.
Another, surprisingly time consuming job, not on the list . . . with the ducting, vents and speakers removed from under the dashboard, you can see through the windscreen, through the holes in the dash, to the red (unpainted) bulkhead and the wiring below . . . this always irritated me but not enough to remove the dash pad and actually do anything about it.
Well, fitting the pod and the fuel pressure gauge meant removing the dashpad so out came the fishnets (no, not used these were brand new before you say anything, C.P) . . . with a lot of faffing and a little more adhesive -
Before -
After -
A pic of the gauges in the main pod after a bit of fettling with the Dremel -
My version of the vacuum take-off for the new boost/vac gauge . . . the AutoMeter supplied Tee-piece was crap !
The sensor thingy for the electronic fuel pressure gauge installed -
The kill switch mounted underneath the car -
Sorry, I know, it needs a clean . . .!
And finally, another job not on the list . . .
I decided to raise the air cleaner up 1" so the engine got as much of the cool air (theoretically) from the cowl scoop as possible . . . . This, again, took longer that anticipated but now leaves just a few millimetres clearance under the hood . . . It means that I *could* get away with a 3" Cowl if I had to (mine's a 4") by removing the spacer . . . we'll see what happens when I come to repair the hood . . . options, though.
The next jobs are to continue with the wiring under the dash, connecting the various bits and bobs up, then move under the car and address the exhaust.
Thanks to Ian for assistance . . .
