Author Topic: my new ride (Read 3853 times)

Incursus · « **Reply #25 on:** February 24, 2006, 05:43:25 pm »

Quoting: Roadkill

Don't waste a Chevy in a Mopar

Dont contaminate a Mopar with a chevy

Incursus · « **Reply #26 on:** February 24, 2006, 05:44:04 pm »

Quoting: ozzy

this is what was in it . 1968 mopar 383 ci. 6.4 v8 with 727 auto box

Whats wrong with the engine then?

ozzy · « **Reply #27 on:** February 24, 2006, 07:19:20 pm »

Quoting: incursus

Whats wrong with the engine then?

the guy I got the car of has a buyer for it.

So you think i should go big block mopar?

I will havea look at that site now

Incursus · « **Reply #28 on:** February 24, 2006, 07:24:06 pm »

Quoting: ozzy

So you think i should go big block mopar?

Only cos the cars a mopar I don't know much about the performance differences between chevy and mopar...

Parts are probably cheaper and more available for the chevy block..

Roadkill · « **Reply #29 on:** February 24, 2006, 09:40:33 pm »

Go with MoPar - but no need for a big block - not unless you've got £££££'s to spend and want a drag car.

A 383ci would be the maximum you'd need in that.

55starchief · « **Reply #30 on:** February 24, 2006, 09:50:41 pm »

I would wait and see what price andy comes up with for chris's motor and trans, then if you wanted to up the spec you could do

ozzy · « **Reply #31 on:** February 25, 2006, 01:05:36 am »

Well the car will be a drag car with a mot. I am geting the back end tubed for the pro street look. I want to run 13s then work to get it faster as I get use to it . So I want a motor for around £2000 that I can progress with

philoldsmobile · « **Reply #32 on:** February 25, 2006, 01:10:49 am »

what sort of numbers are you aiming for?

although their outright potential is limited, you can generaly run 10's with a big block (preferably 500 inch) caddyu engine..

although they are not powerful as stock, it doesn't take much to wake them up, and they are unlikely to have had a hard life, so the bottom end generaly can be untouched - just a port job, intake manifold, hoofing great carb, cam and a set of headers - should come in well under £2000

hot rod did an article a while ago, where they bui9lt a pro street chevette, that ran 10's for $1000 with a caddy motor..

FUBAR · « **Reply #33 on:** February 25, 2006, 02:22:40 am »

Quoting: philoldsmobile

hot rod did an article a while ago, where they bui9lt a pro street chevette, that ran 10's for $1000 with a caddy motor..

provided you don't want to turn corners you're fine!

philoldsmobile · « **Reply #34 on:** February 25, 2006, 02:32:26 am »

thats pretty much a given with any pro street mate - they dont do corners, and thats an understatment..

even stock big block muscle cars drive pretty badly, i drove a big block 68 camaro a while ago in NY, and to be honest, it handled like a drunken pig on a skateboard..

Roadkill · « **Reply #35 on:** February 25, 2006, 06:50:19 am »

Always been tempted to uprate my Caddy to a 500cid - the parts are available.

ozzy · « **Reply #36 on:** February 25, 2006, 07:08:01 am »

so my project id possible . thats good news

philoldsmobile · « **Reply #37 on:** February 26, 2006, 01:37:38 am »

all projects are possible mate, just need to keep your eyes on the prize!

ozzy · « **Reply #38 on:** February 26, 2006, 02:17:27 am »

well said

art b · « **Reply #39 on:** February 26, 2006, 05:07:12 am »

and find a few quid too!

ozzy · « **Reply #40 on:** February 26, 2006, 08:19:40 pm »

I am working on thet 2 art. I have 33 items on ebay at the minit lol

ozzy · « **Reply #41 on:** March 01, 2006, 09:17:48 pm »

just got quote from hustler race cars to pro street my car and it will cost around £4329.87 .

here is the email

Hi and thanks for the e-mail.
The costs for Pro Streeting your car are as follows.
HRC 4-link rear chassis kit including mandrel bent frame rails, dropped X member, aluminium adj shocks & springs, 4-link kit with rod ends, brackets, bolts, adjusters,etc = £890.00
Labour charges are as follows:-
Cut out old floor and trim - approx £300
assemble and fit subframe £390
fit 8 point roll cage and weld in £700
fit wheel tubs - £275
fit rear tinwork - from £500
narrow your axle case and install 4-link brackets - £175
fit front part of cage 4 point £200
Optional extras
remove OEM axle brackets, strip and blast clean axle - £160
fit your fuel cell = £60
fit NOS bottle mounts = £30
fit battery tray = £30.00

to reduce the cost of this exercise you may be able to do some of the work yourself such as stripping the axle or cutting out the back of your car yourself. Call me for more information on 01933 312735
Regards Ray

Roadkill · « **Reply #42 on:** March 01, 2006, 09:31:38 pm »

Fek !

That ain't bad though . . . . Will they throw in a motor for free if you ask them nicely - then yer sorted !

55starchief · « **Reply #43 on:** March 01, 2006, 11:00:05 pm »

Quoting: Roadkill

Fek !

That ain't bad though

well i reckon with my new found mig skills i could tub the maro for you mate

Roadkill · « **Reply #44 on:** March 01, 2006, 11:09:01 pm »

Roll cage will be first on the list, if anything, TBH.

I've seen how they squish if rolled !

ozzy · « **Reply #45 on:** March 01, 2006, 11:42:15 pm »

so you think that is a good price then for what i am getting

Roadkill · « **Reply #46 on:** March 01, 2006, 11:53:19 pm »

Quoting: ozzy

so you think that is a good price then for what i am getting

If it's a pro-job and all certified, then yeah, looks pretty good.

55starchief · « **Reply #47 on:** March 01, 2006, 11:54:23 pm »

Quoting: Roadkill

Quoting: ozzy
so you think that is a good price then for what i am getting

If it's a pro-job and all certified, then yeah, looks pretty good.

agreed if its a pro job, you cant put a price on saftey mate

ozzy · « **Reply #48 on:** March 02, 2006, 07:44:37 am »

just got to get the $$$$$$$ saved up then

55starchief · « **Reply #49 on:** March 02, 2006, 03:48:26 pm »

Quoting: ozzy

just got to get the $$$$$$$ saved up then

welcome to the world of yanks and race cars mate, they will keep you poor