Author Topic: Introducing . . . . . . THE PIG !!! (a.k.a PROJECT PIG)  (Read 5887 times)

Cunning Plan

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« Reply #50 on: June 20, 2013, 05:49:50 pm »
Nice dude!
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Roadkill

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« Reply #51 on: June 21, 2013, 09:11:15 am »
Saw the rims last night and struck a deal.

At this stage I want to get the Pig finished and get some miles on it to see if it's a keeper or not . . . . .

I very nearly bought another project (of the 2-wheeled variety) this week and really need to assess what's going to happen with the Pig - long-term.


Roadkill

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« Reply #52 on: June 25, 2013, 09:09:52 am »
O.K, so I've been trying to sort the Pig out over the last few days . . . I had asked my brother to come over and do the welding/filling to save me time but he's a useless c**t so I just started it myself.

How hard can it be ?

(I'd like to point out that this is, by far, the largest-scale welding job I've done on a car so I was a little anxious for the first minute or two . . . once I started hacking away with a grinder it all seemed O.K again.)

So - here's the bits I had bent up (to save more time) . . . . Problem is that the shop didn't have any appropriate thickness mild steel so did them in pre-galv !  
With a good going-over to get the zinc off and they're all good.



The plan was to tackle two bad areas, just forward of the rear wheels, one on either side.
Each area would be divided into two plates as the bends were fairly complex and weren't even along the length so it would give me some adjust-ability . . . .

So 2 areas, each with 2 plates = 4 plates, right ?

No.

Area 1 : Drivers side.

Mark out the rot.



Cut out the rot.



Welding in new tin 3 Plates (the welding does get better as I go along - promise).



 . . . .

Then cut out the rotten bit next to that . . .



Weld in another 2 Plates and slap some P40 on to seal the joins.



Notice another bit of rot a few inches further along where some numpty jacked up the van on the sill.  Bend the seam back straight and cut out more rot.



Another 1 Plate ready for welding . . . add P40 when done etc . . .



Area 2 : Passenger side.

A bit more tricky as it's under the sliding door . . .

Cut out rot, treat and weld in lower plate (another 1 Plate).

Notice there's rust on the other side of the sill so cut and weld in another 2 Plates from the inside . . .



Cut and form last Plate (hopefully) . . .



Weld in place.  (note that I haven't cleaned up the welds at the top of the plate yet . . . . long story)



 . . . .

Next stage - Sanding, filling, sanding, priming . . . .  

In other news I hope to be picking up the "new" wheels tonight . . .


Andy

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« Reply #53 on: June 25, 2013, 09:18:02 am »
Some cars you jack up on the sill now.

Its a joke, but my Camaro you jack up the front just behind the wheel arch. No one thought how heavy the car is and its just crushed the sill over. Even with the supplied jack. I need to get mine sorted at some point.

For a first go at panel welding 10/10 in my book! Looks bloody good!

Cunning Plan

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« Reply #54 on: June 25, 2013, 09:35:47 am »
Quoting: Andy
For a first go at panel welding 10/10 in my book! Looks bloody good!




Very impressive

How long did that take you? Please do not tell me you did all of that work in one evening.

Quoting: Roadkill
So - here's the bits I had bent up (to save more time)


Where did you get that done?

Quoting: Roadkill
Problem is that the shop didn't have any appropriate thickness mild steel so did them in pre-galv !


What's Pre-galv? Is that a special coating?

Quoting: Roadkill
With a good going-over to get the zinc off and they're all good.  


Obviously you are going to paint the outside, but do you have to do anything to the other-side of the steel to stop it corroding?
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Andy

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« Reply #55 on: June 25, 2013, 10:16:43 am »
Pre-Galv means its been galvanised at the factory. Not good news for welders as the fumes given off are some what toxic!

Roadkill

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« Reply #56 on: June 25, 2013, 10:20:18 am »
Quoting: Cunning Plan
How long did that take you?


I think I did about 3 hours on Saturday, 1 hour on Sunday and about an hour yesterday . . . -ish

Quoting: Cunning Plan
Where did you get that done?


I used to use a company in Luton - they went bust recently so my company bought them out as they did a lot of work for us.

Quoting: Cunning Plan
What's Pre-galv? Is that a special coating?


Pre-galv is (basically) a zinc coating over the steel.  You can get stuff "dipped" to galvanise them but normally sheet is supplied already done.  Hence "pre" galvanised.

Quoting: Cunning Plan
but do you have to do anything to the other-side of the steel to stop it corroding?


The pre-galv will protect most of it inside.  If this had been a long-term keeper (or of higher value) I would've sprayed waxoyl or similar inside the sills to protect the inside.  I'll probably just pop-off the plastic bungs on the inside of the sills and give it a blast of stone-chip or whatever I have lying around . . . . that'll help.

Roadkill

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« Reply #57 on: June 25, 2013, 10:10:25 pm »
Yay !

A successful evening's work.  

Pictures to follow.


Cunning Plan

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« Reply #58 on: June 26, 2013, 07:55:58 am »
Quoting: Roadkill
I think I did about 3 hours on Saturday, 1 hour on Sunday and about an hour yesterday . . . -ish


Ah good, I was just starting to think that I am the slowest worker ever.

Quoting: Roadkill
Pre-galv is (basically) a zinc coating over the steel. You can get stuff "dipped" to galvanise them but normally sheet is supplied already done. Hence "pre" galvanised.


Aha,

Quoting: Roadkill
The pre-galv will protect most of it inside.




Quoting: Roadkill
With a good going-over to get the zinc off and they're all good.  


So, you had to remove the coating to be able to weld the pieces on, did you then re-coat them to protect them?

Quoting: Roadkill
Pictures to follow.


1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Andy

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« Reply #59 on: June 26, 2013, 08:52:25 am »
Pre Glav is Zinc coated both sides, it's best practise to remove the zinc coating from the area being welded, it's also not a great surface to paint to. The 60ft tower in my back garden is zinc coated and a year after painting it, all the paint is flaking off.

art b

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« Reply #60 on: June 26, 2013, 09:28:28 am »
Quoting: Andy
The 60ft tower in my back garden








This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

Cunning Plan

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« Reply #61 on: June 26, 2013, 09:56:32 am »
Quoting: art b


Quote from: Andy

******* big thing in the garden...






 


Yes,

(Perhaps post in a new thread so RK doesn't get the boomstick out)
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Roadkill

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« Reply #62 on: June 26, 2013, 06:51:59 pm »
Thanks.

Yeah, you strip-off the zinc for welding and painting.  You can't put it back on (well, you can but that's zinc primer . . . .)  Most of the zinc will still be there inside the sill and obviously I'll paint the outside so it should be fine.

Anyway . . .

Some pictures from last night . . .

For £6 I decided she could do with a little bling . . . .



Next I tackled the rear bumper . . . pretty messy with flaky paint . . .



So I added some non-slip tape to cover the flaky paint, protect the rest and to provide grip when loading and unloading the back (ultimately if I keep this van it'll be partly for parts hauling) . . .



And here's the rims I picked up locally.  I got the guy to fit my tyres so it worked out a cracking deal.  

I put 6mm spacers on the back (F.O.C - was on the Camaro but didn't work with new wheels) but didn't fit spacers on the front (they already filled the arches nicely).

I've since fitted new black wheel nuts and gave the wheels and tyres a wipe over.




She'll probably be my daily for the rest of the week as the Mondeo is having minor surgery to try and sort an issue . . .

Will crack on with the bodywork around the recent repairs next . . .

Roadkill

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« Reply #63 on: June 26, 2013, 06:55:56 pm »
After the repairs are sorted the only other jobs I intend to do is replace the wiper blades and re-paint the wiper arms and door mirrors.


Cunning Plan

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« Reply #64 on: June 27, 2013, 07:52:27 am »


Great work buddy!

What a difference!

The wheels look good too, not what I was expecting, but they 'American-ise' the car away from the teddy-bear-caps

Quoting: Roadkill
non-slip tape


You sir, are a genious. That has given me an idea (the same one ) for the Cherokee

Quoting: Roadkill
Yeah, you strip-off the zinc for welding and painting. You can't put it back on (well, you can but that's zinc primer . . . .) Most of the zinc will still be there inside the sill and obviously I'll paint the outside so it should be fine.


Thanks for explaining that, but just to be clear, when you say the 'zinc will still be there inside the sill', is that because you do not literally clean the whole panel to remove the coating before welding, instead you just do the edges of what you are about to weld?


(sorry)
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Roadkill

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« Reply #65 on: June 27, 2013, 08:15:10 am »
Quoting: Cunning Plan
you just do the edges of what you are about to weld?


Correct.

Quoting: Cunning Plan
You sir, are a genious


Why, thank you.

Quoting: Cunning Plan
The wheels look good too, not what I was expecting


I didn't really want the same wheels for the Van as I'd just bought for the Camaro but they're very suitable for day vans, they were cheap and available, as you say do "Americanise" it away from Transit-looking.  Also, it's rare to find a set of four 14x7 alloys for American vehicles . . . most are 15x7 and even then often different sizes front-to-back.

I must admit it looks better in the flesh . . . the pictures don't do it justice.


Roadkill

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« Reply #66 on: July 02, 2013, 08:59:43 am »
Today's a sad day.




After just over 2 months . . . .




 . . 265 miles covered in her . . . .




and many hours spent toiling over her . . . .




I've finally used up all the petrol that she had in her and had to put a tenner in this morning.



Gutted.


Incursus

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« Reply #67 on: July 02, 2013, 09:47:47 am »
Aw man, you just can't catch a break with cars this week can you!

ianjpage

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« Reply #68 on: July 02, 2013, 11:45:47 am »
lol
Quoting: Roadkill
I've finally used up all the petrol that she had in her and had to put a tenner in this morning.



Lasted reasonably well tho!

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« Reply #69 on: July 03, 2013, 01:47:07 pm »
Only just been able to see the pics in this thread, some good work going on there.

What did you use to cut the rusty sections out with? I'm facing some similar work on the 'maro soon, and the tools I've got won't do as good a job as that.

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« Reply #70 on: July 03, 2013, 02:30:57 pm »
I just used a small angle grinder and some good quality THIN cutting discs.

I marked around the patch plates and then cut just inside the line . . . in a couple of places I left a tab and bent it so it tucked behind the existing metal to aid location.

To strip-off the paint and rust I'd highly, highly, highly recommend a 3M "Strip n Clean" wheel (purple).  These bad boys take off EVERYTHING except the metal, leaving a surface workable.
You can mount them on a drill and by changing the drill spindle direction, really work them into the corners and crevasses.

I smeared some P40 over the lot for some protection but I'd suggest using some Kurust, too . . I got some when the Camaro was done and have had no reactions with it . . . you paint it on, leave it and primer straight over the top.

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« Reply #71 on: July 08, 2013, 03:08:58 pm »
As it doesn't seem safe having 4 cars out the front of the house at the moment I've moved the Pig into the Camaro's future home while the Camaro is still at home . .



I'll swap her back this weekend to carry on and get her all finished - hopefully . . .

Cunning Plan

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« Reply #72 on: July 09, 2013, 08:09:48 am »
Nice garage :)
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Roadkill

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« Reply #73 on: July 09, 2013, 11:59:23 am »
Quoting: Cunning Plan
Nice garage


Yeah, it's Sammy's Mum's and Step Dad's . . . I painted the floor and in return get 50% of it to park a vehicle in !

Fair trade.

Not sure for how long, though as they're talking about moving next year but we'll see . . . I suspect I'll have that space for a while yet.



On a sidenote I tested the Pig's A/C on Sunday (when it was fekking hot) . . . On "NORM" it's nice and chilly and set to "MAX" is like an arctic wind !!!



That's a very cool (mind the pun) bonus as I'd assumed it'd need re-gassing.


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« Reply #74 on: July 15, 2013, 12:25:29 pm »
I splashed out £19.95 on a new cheapie stereo for her (Radio / USB / Aux) . . . but Ian has had a hell of a time figuring it all out.



The first one didn't work, so they sent me another . . that only played at full volume but when we plugged the first one back in it played but with limited functions . . .

Long story, short I've now got some tunes in the Pig and all Six speakers work (seems someone opted for the extra 2 in the tailgate).

Yay !

Also, I did a few little "tidy-up" jobs, too, yesterday (too hot to tackle the bodywork !)

Nothing major but rubbed down and re-painted the front and rear wiper arms in satin black hammerite and replaced the wipers, too.

Gave the two door mirrors a good scrub and got them looking a nice shade of dark grey as opposed to very light grey.

Also loctite'd the aerial whip on and removed all the flakey paint from the aerial base . . I was gonna paint the base as-per the wiper arms but thought it looked O.K being shiny.



All the little jobs are done, now - just need to concentrate on the bodywork (filling over the welded areas) and then I would've done everything I set out to do (and a bit more).

Am happy with how she's looking and even got a good chirp off the line when leaving my estate yesterday.