Author Topic: Finally! (Read 18368 times)

Andy · « **Reply #50 on:** October 16, 2012, 05:26:19 am »

Ok, so left the battery on charge over night and through the day yesterday. Bolted it back when I got in and checked the volted. I had 12.3v on the terminals.

Fired the car up, and had 12.2v at the battery terminals. Then checked across the output post of the alternator and to the case of the alternator. Again 12.2v.

I then loaded up the charging system, lights, heater, fog light stereo. The battery voltage dropped down to 11.5v and was pretty solid. I left the car running for a good while, but it didn't get hot enough for the cooling fans to come on. So I guess that would further draw the battery voltage down.

From this I guess I'm looking at a knackered alternator, unless anyone else reckons theres something else?

art b · « **Reply #51 on:** October 16, 2012, 07:27:50 am »

you should be getting just over 14v when charging,
it may be the voltage/diode pack in the alt
which may be replaceable

check out, 3rd gen .org

Andy · « **Reply #52 on:** October 16, 2012, 08:47:36 am »

I'm all over thirdgen.org like a dodgy rash.

I reckon it's shagged. The Haynes manual says as much, just wanted to make sure the way I was checking was right.

Next question then, does anyone stock these over here?!

Roadkill · « **Reply #53 on:** October 16, 2012, 09:38:58 am »

Quoting: Andy

Next question then, does anyone stock these over here?!

Probably . . . but getting it from the states will almost certainly be cheaper.

Jamieg285 · « **Reply #54 on:** October 16, 2012, 11:02:47 am »

Quoting: Roadkill

uoting: Andy
Next question then, does anyone stock these over here?!

Probably . . . but getting it from the states will almost certainly be cheaper.

True, but always check on small, heavy items. Occasionally it works out the same or cheaper, and it means you can get it quicker.

Roadkill · « **Reply #55 on:** October 16, 2012, 11:12:08 am »

From my experience buying sparkplugs Rock Auto ship faster and cheaper than US Auto in Bedford.

but

Andy · « **Reply #56 on:** October 16, 2012, 12:33:20 pm »

Ruddy Nora! Just rang OCW on Dave's advice to get a price. Genuine AC Delco alternator is £250!

Off to see what Rock Auto can offer me!

Roadkill · « **Reply #57 on:** October 16, 2012, 12:43:17 pm »

See Facebook - £124 ACDelco, from Rock Auto (inc. Shipping and charges)

Andy · « **Reply #58 on:** October 16, 2012, 01:40:12 pm »

Haha, yeah cheers Dean. Your comment though about £20 to clear FedEx, does Rock Auto not add that on automatically? I thought they did that's all.

I'm going to hook it off tonight and actually verify its knackered. Somebody said, take the output cable off and check the alternator to deck. Now that's not a bad idea but all the same, I don't like the idea of positive cable flapping about with the engine running! It might come to that later.

I've been meaning to update this for the pics of the spark plugs. Nothing amazing but shows a couple of extremes, one in being in there too long, the other in being carbonised!

Roadkill · « **Reply #59 on:** October 16, 2012, 01:53:44 pm »

Quoting: Andy

Your comment though about £20 to clear FedEx, does Rock Auto not add that on automatically? I thought they did that's all.

Click the part. Then proceed as if you were going to pay and it adds it after at the bottom.

All in with a re-manufactured one I got it coming out at £124 or £135 for a new one (both ACDelco). That's with FedEx priority International and VAT added.

Andy · « **Reply #60 on:** October 16, 2012, 05:43:37 pm »

Ok, trying another channel first, the guy who did my spark plugs has a guy who remanufactures them depending on their shape. So he'll do a no obligation quote. Might as well. I'm in no rush to get it going again.

It does make up for how much of a bitch it is to do the spark plugs.

10 mins, about 4 or five different tools and two different size torx head bolts (assholes!) and its off.

It already has a label on it saying its a remanufactured AC Delco Part, which is a bit odd, unless its been off before?!

On to the photos...

The hole left behind

Learning how a pretensioner works

The close fit of the +ve out and the rocker cover

The bitch is out!

Andy · « **Reply #61 on:** October 16, 2012, 06:00:13 pm »

Oh and the spark plugs, not terribly interesting, but here you go...

6 decent condition NGK BPR4FS, nice wear on them all and standard tan colour... I was one digit out and fitted NGK BPR5FS's if it makes any difference.

1 'AC' brand plug, rusted solid in the block, seems original with the car, sited above the subframe and a 'bastard' to get out.

Nice .080" gap, compared to the .035" they're meant to be!

Oh, and will bored and in control of a VMC, thought I might as well make up a replacement cigarette socket plug! Ironic as the fuse has blown for the socket...

art b · « **Reply #62 on:** October 16, 2012, 07:02:18 pm »

tbh.. the alt looks like many others ..

that could be reconditioned, or a similar one would be available here

Roadkill · « **Reply #63 on:** October 16, 2012, 09:10:00 pm »

Quoting: Andy

The close fit of the +ve out and the rocker cover

You should see some of the aftermarket valvecovers !!!

What VMC have you got ?

Might be looking for some serious one-off milling next year . . . .

Andy · « **Reply #64 on:** October 16, 2012, 10:55:52 pm »

That was just a quick bit of engraving on the Haas Mini Mill. Had it clocked up with a chuck, quick like program and boom! Turned the main part on an old Colchester Master we have sat in the corner. The thing is so shagged its hilarious.

Apart from the Haas Mini Mill, we have a Bridgeport VMC 800 with Heidenhain control. No fancy stuff though, only 3 axis.

Roadkill · « **Reply #65 on:** October 17, 2012, 08:42:25 am »

Hmm. I could probably design it for a 3-axis . . . It's a way-off, yet, though !

I miss not having machines to play with . . . .

Jamieg285 · « **Reply #66 on:** October 17, 2012, 10:59:38 am »

Have a look at doing the alt rebuild yourself. Once you've worked out how it comes apart, it's a real easy job to do.

Far cheaper than a complete replacement.

Jamieg285 · « **Reply #67 on:** October 17, 2012, 11:04:06 am »

Quoting: Andy

6 decent condition NGK BPR4FS, nice wear on them all and standard tan colour... I was one digit out and fitted NGK BPR5FS's if it makes any difference.

Different heat range. You've gone for a slightly 'cooler' plug. Just one number should be OK.

Quoting: Wikipedia

It was common before the modern era of computerized fuel injection to specify at least a couple of different heat ranges for plugs for an automobile engine; a hotter plug for cars which were mostly driven slowly around the city, and a colder plug for sustained high speed highway use.

Andy · « **Reply #68 on:** October 17, 2012, 12:16:04 pm »

Quoting: Roadkill

Hmm. I could probably design it for a 3-axis . . . It's a way-off, yet, though !

I miss not having machines to play with . .

Cool stuff, well let me know when you know, and I'll see what I can do.

Quoting: Jamieg285

Have a look at doing the alt rebuild yourself. Once you've worked out how it comes apart, it's a real easy job to do.

Far cheaper than a complete replacement.

I have just dropped it off in the garage who did my spark plugs, as an alternative was getting someone to rebuild it. If I can get it rebuilt with a warranty that'll probably work out cheaper at the moment. Will see, I could only see the rectify pack for sale and I was hoping I could get a complete service kit. Part of our work here is manufacturing small DC motors so we're pretty clues up on these types of bits of kit.

Cheers for the info on the plugs. I used an online conversion tool, and thats what came up as a direct replacement for the stock Champion ones. They seem absolutely fine. It does stumble a little when idling, but then so does my focus every so often, I think its only because I'm listening for it that I can hear it.

While I've got the alternator off I was going to change the serpentine as its not been changed since we've had the car, thought might as well, then stick the old one in the boot.

Andy · « **Reply #69 on:** October 25, 2012, 06:13:18 am »

A week or so later and I've had the unit returned.

Been told its be fully remanufactured, new bearings, slip rings, brushes, regulator, lick of paint and even what looks like a new front pulley.

Either way it looks spanking, comes with a two year warranty, has cost just under what a reconditioned one on RockAuto would've cost.

I've now got mates rates status with the garage as he didn't want anything more than they were charging him.

Apologies for the photo quality. I tried and failed to sort the lens out on my camera with a dremel and failed miserably...

art b · « **Reply #70 on:** October 25, 2012, 09:56:38 am »

good news then....

probably better than a new un...

Andy · « **Reply #71 on:** October 25, 2012, 11:33:40 am »

Yeah, now on the hunt for a replacement belt. Why does such simple things like belts have such a mark up!?

Roadkill · « **Reply #72 on:** October 25, 2012, 12:29:15 pm »

Quoting: Andy

Yeah, now on the hunt for a replacement belt. Why does such simple things like belts have such a mark up!?

I just ask my local guy to order one in . . . the numbers on the belt relate to their length in mm.

Or use a piece of string and give your guy the length.

It's what I've always done.

Andy · « **Reply #73 on:** October 25, 2012, 12:35:11 pm »

Just found the number on this belt, Eurocar Parts has one that is 6PK2404 where I need 6PK2400, I guess the 4 mm won't make too much difference, will it?

Roadkill · « **Reply #74 on:** October 25, 2012, 02:26:18 pm »

No, it won't.

The 6PK is the Ribs thru the cross section (grooves in your pulleys) - normally 5PK or 6PK and obviously the 2400 is the mm length.

I had fun getting one for mine as I'm only running an alternator it was only 600mm long !