Author Topic: Camaro bodywork (Read 2390 times)

CJ-IROCZ · « **on:** May 29, 2007, 08:00:22 pm »

Luckily , i have just sorted some permanant storage for the camaro so i'm thinking about attempting some prep work myself.

I'd love to throw the car at someone like rocky and get the paint work A1 but in all honesty the funds just are not there, and probably wont be for a long while.

I would never have a go at the serious stuff but reckon i could probably save myself some cash by stripping and maybe prepping some of the panels for paint. Now that i've got the astro to drive around in , i'm happy to take the camaro off the road now to start work.

so over to you guys ! what can be done by a novice and what cant ? any of you had a go at prepping yourself ?

Rocky · « **Reply #1 on:** May 29, 2007, 08:02:38 pm »

I get loads in that say ive prepped it myself but i end up having to re-do it all anyway.

Depends how far you want to go to what advise i can give you.

CJ-IROCZ · « **Reply #2 on:** May 29, 2007, 08:08:33 pm »

Like i say the money just isn't there to do the bodywork so I've got a choice, either sell it as is Or put it into the storage place and slowely strip off the body kit , wheels, lights ect ect. with the intention of getting her sprayed next year

When i've spoke to people about getting the spray job done, they've all said that all the time is in the prep so i'm just wondering if a could do anything ? I'm aware that i could make things worse though

F Body · « **Reply #3 on:** May 29, 2007, 08:23:26 pm »

I'm sure Rocky will be able to tell you, I do know that even a litre or two of solid colour paint is getting dam exspensive

philoldsmobile · « **Reply #4 on:** May 29, 2007, 09:41:24 pm »

i prepped my oldsmobile for paint, and got a local shop to actualy lay the paint down, the results were excelent, but you have to have incredible patience..

any tiny blemish in the prep shows up 10000 times more in paint..

i had just a few blemishes and patches of surface rust to deal with, yet it took two weeks of flatting priming filling, then stopper, then more filling and flatting, for a good couple of hours every evening..

final results were excelent though, and the car took a couple of trophies after that..

philoldsmobile · « **Reply #5 on:** May 29, 2007, 09:44:05 pm »

this is how i left the car with the paint shop

the final result (hard to see in the pic, but it was REALLY nice)

the only area i wasn't totaly happy with was a dent that i pulled and filled, but could always see afterwards.. unsuprisingly this was the last bit i did, and impatience got the better of me.

art b · « **Reply #6 on:** May 29, 2007, 10:00:57 pm »

im doing one myself and to do it right takes ages,

and reviewing it and having the time to redo things that aint turned out as well as expected........its take the patience of a saint

on the bright side ya get a lot of satisfaction, when something new to ya comes out brill

CJ-IROCZ · « **Reply #7 on:** May 30, 2007, 06:17:58 am »

Phil thats the sort of thing i'm thinking of doing.

Any idea of sites that i can go to for basic instructions and info on what products to use

CJ-IROCZ · « **Reply #8 on:** May 30, 2007, 06:18:24 am »

Phil thats olds is

Fieldy · « **Reply #9 on:** May 30, 2007, 07:12:00 am »

Haven't the patience to do this, sorry craig!

Good luck!

Rocky · « **Reply #10 on:** May 30, 2007, 07:16:19 am »

If you let me know how far you want to go bare metal etc i can walk you through it,
We use air tools for speed but show finishes are always done by hand.

Also 2k is being phased out so water based has to be used which is twice as expensive so bare this in mind for your prep.

art b · « **Reply #11 on:** May 30, 2007, 10:24:24 am »

ha aint that real waterbased is twice as expensive that the chemical 2 pack...

CJ-IROCZ · « **Reply #12 on:** May 30, 2007, 05:23:30 pm »

I reckon bare metal is the only option due to some micro blisters around the arch with the bubbling

I've got to be sure on this one cause the last thing i want to do is store it, strip it , prep it and then forget about it.

I would rather sell it someone that would complete the work

sixpack2639 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 30, 2007, 05:45:28 pm »

Here's my

worth.

As stated, it takes the patients of a saint. Prep work is slow and tedious.

I just can't do it.

I can build motors and tranny's all day long but when it comes to body work, fugetaboutit!

Luckily one of the guys in my local club owns a body & paint shop and we can get his guys to do our cars off the books for some extra beer money.

Rob · « **Reply #14 on:** May 30, 2007, 06:26:26 pm »

Check with your painter before you start as a lot of them I've encountered always want to do their own prep work anyway....funny breed....!

sixpack2639 · « **Reply #15 on:** May 30, 2007, 06:39:02 pm »

Rob has a point, all of the painters I know won't guarentee the paint work unless they do the prep work too.

CJ-IROCZ · « **Reply #16 on:** May 30, 2007, 06:57:24 pm »

I have got a good friend who is a sprayer for a local garage. He's very good but has no where to do any private work and the garage owner is a tw*t.

He said he'll give me a hand with the prep but to be fair his hands are preaty full with a T25 project and i feel guilty about asking , he'd say yes even if he was too busy.

philoldsmobile · « **Reply #17 on:** May 30, 2007, 10:11:44 pm »

Quoting: CJ-IROCZ

I reckon bare metal is the only option due to some micro blisters around the arch with the bubbling

I've got to be sure on this one cause the last thing i want to do is store it, strip it , prep it and then forget about it.

I would rather sell it someone that would complete the work

ahhh, i know this problem well...

this is caused (if its the same as i had on mine) by a common paint problem on thirdgens..

california built cars used a new type of water based paint (very crude at the time) due to factory emission laws and it basicly fell off

many cars that resided outside of CA were repainted using synthetic paints, some of which reacted with the water based primer underneath.

if these blisters are about the size of a pea, pop an inconspicuous one, it will be filled with a clear sticky liquid, very similar in smell to polystirene cement..

going to bare metal is the only option, otherwise the reaction pops back through the paint after 6 months or so.. fortunaltey this is often very localised, so if possible, only bare metal the offending area.

dont forget that any bare metal of significant size will need an acid etch primer to adhere properly, but this is all diy-able stuff..

for books, amazon.co.uk will have a good selection of home bodyworking books..

Rocky - please feel free to highlight anything that i've got wrong here!!! this is by no means definitive, just my experience.

i re sprayed the whole boot lid on my camaro due to this same problem, and had to do it twice, after 6 months the paint started to lift again first time.. second time i took it past hte layer of yellow primer (there is another beige primer under it) primed the whole panel (twice) and put LOTS of paint on.. the reaction didn't return

philoldsmobile · « **Reply #18 on:** May 30, 2007, 10:16:01 pm »

for the record i used regualr halfords priper (acryllic) and isapon P38 filler. none of these have any reaction problems under 2k paint

Hellfrauds now stock u-pol products, and they are better, but slightly more expensive..

halfords own brand stuff worked well for me though..

I used halfords stuff on the rear arches and 1/4's on my escort, and you couldn't see a colour or finish difference after a good buff and polish, it was an excelent job.

good results are quite possible with DIY products, just dont rush it.

F Body · « **Reply #19 on:** May 31, 2007, 05:50:57 am »

Quoting: philoldsmobile

good results are quite possible with DIY products, just dont rush it.

Wise worlds little one

Trouble is I always balls it up right at the end

Rocky · « **Reply #20 on:** May 31, 2007, 07:26:55 am »

Phils right, Nearly every car i have had in has micro blisters, to make sure they dont come back it needs to be bare metaled. I dont recommend stripping the paint all at once in a lockup as you will get small dots of surface rust appear even over night, best to do a panel at a time. I would etch prime however thats gone over to health and safty now and isnt as good as the old stuff.

CJ-IROCZ · « **Reply #21 on:** June 02, 2007, 06:27:55 pm »

Right i'm doing it

The car is going into the lock up tomorrow morning , once again off the road.

I've been offered help from a couple of body sprayers so between them and you guys , i might get this thing done

Cant believe it'll be off the road again , having the astro helps though

okay, pics tomorrow of the girl in her new home for the next 6 months

Roadkill · « **Reply #22 on:** June 02, 2007, 06:43:32 pm »

I've got bodywork on my 'Maro that needs seeing to . . . . Thankfully my brother can arrange getting it sorted.

If it needs Satin paint - I'm your man but for a glossy finish I haven't got the patience !

CJ-IROCZ · « **Reply #23 on:** June 02, 2007, 06:57:23 pm »

I wont the exact colour it came from the factory in

Anyone know the code ?

art b · « **Reply #24 on:** June 03, 2007, 09:36:57 am »

ya really wanna make sure you have the time and inspiration to complete it.

as there are plenty of auto unfinished projects out there in lock ups

Author Topic: Camaro bodywork (Read 2390 times)

Roadkill