General MKB => General Banter => Topic started by: Andy on August 22, 2012, 10:45:30 pm
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 22, 2012, 10:45:30 pm
I own a yank! (and imminently awaiting insurance)
After all these being on here wittering away about them, I now finally own my own. My dad has had enough of me whinging at car meets about not being able to drive etc. so offered me his Camaro.
It ain't a show winner, but it isn't bad either! Paint is starting to fall off, needs some tlc on the inside, but in reality I couldn't care. What I'm more proud about is the insurance. Still only 24 and still only two companies willing to touch me, one being Adrian Flux, the other one I found on Pistonheads by chance called Classicline. For £40 more than my 'daily' I'm insured fully comp. So no astronomical quote anymore!
Am away this weekend and won't probably get a chance to take it out till next weekend. Even then it won't be far as I'll probably be bricking it!
Anyway, for those not on my facebook, here it is at a RWYB last year...
Title: Finally!
Post by: Fieldy on August 23, 2012, 04:19:51 am
Cool, Cool, Car. Congrats and well done to your dad for being such a nice bloke....
I don't know why you need to wait for the weekend? These cars work just as fine Mon-Fri, even just in the evenings.....
Keep us updated how you get.
What engine is in this one? Thanks for the pics for the people who aren't on Facialbook. Nice to know we aren't totally cut off from the world! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/lol.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 23, 2012, 06:02:21 am
Well unfortunately I'm so busy most weekend helping support my local pub that I can't get out much except at the weekend! It is covered for commuting so might even run it to work a few times.
This one is the 305 TBI, ample for me! I cannot thank my dad enough really, I guess it makes up for all the hours I spend cleaning his cars! As he said though, he can't drive two at the same time, and his interest is more with the Mustang and if it teaches me anything, its a bonus! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/cool.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Fieldy on August 23, 2012, 06:16:56 am
*Start Hypnosis* You will drive it work, you will enjoy it, you will not worry for one day about fuel, remember, fuel will be more expensive tomorrow, enjoy it while it's at it's cheapest*Wake Up*
Title: Finally!
Post by: Incursus on August 23, 2012, 08:12:22 am
Bonza (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Motorama on August 23, 2012, 08:50:19 am
Nice one Andy(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: ianjpage on August 23, 2012, 11:40:06 am
well done andy (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif) (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: art b on August 23, 2012, 12:58:17 pm
nice one we like 3rd gens..(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/beavisnbutthead.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 23, 2012, 01:29:23 pm
Cheers guys! Been a long time freakin' coming!
I just wish it looked as good in those photos as it actually does (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif) Never mind, we all have to start somewhere!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Fieldy on August 24, 2012, 05:28:10 am
It was given to you, I would be happy if it had no wheels (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 24, 2012, 02:12:46 pm
Quoting: Fieldy
It was given to you, I would be happy if it had no wheels
Woah, wasn't given to me, just at an offer I couldn't refuse! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on August 24, 2012, 06:48:24 pm
Idle video please :v8idlepervert:
Title: Finally!
Post by: Pod on August 24, 2012, 08:52:21 pm
Quoting: Fieldy
*Start Hypnosis* You will drive it work, you will enjoy it, you will not worry for one day about fuel, remember, fuel will be more expensive tomorrow, enjoy it while it's at it's cheapest *Wake Up*
That worked for me. I've been driving the car around instead of working on it breaking it. Really should get around to breaking it again soon though.
Nice looking car *and* it's driven at the track. Good man! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/cool.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 25, 2012, 12:19:09 am
Quoting: Cunning Plan
Idle video please :v8idlepervert:
Taken ages ago, not the best audio (iphone ftw!) (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on August 25, 2012, 10:01:07 am
Awesome (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Sounds like it is hunting a little though (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif) Was that from cold?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 25, 2012, 10:46:01 am
That is the noise it make with the air con compressor in. It actually hunts really bad when hot which sucks a little but seeing as it needs a re-gas I'll probably just leave it off.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Fieldy on August 26, 2012, 04:57:39 pm
Awesome.
Good luck with it
Title: Finally!
Post by: Fieldy on August 26, 2012, 04:58:17 pm
Quoting: Pod
That worked for me. I've been driving the car around instead of working on it breaking it. Really should get around to breaking it again soon though.
How's yours coming along? Had much use this year racing it?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Pod on August 27, 2012, 02:19:17 pm
Mine's still going. Haven't any racing at all this year. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/sad.gif) Lack of time, money and/or decent weather. I will get back into it though.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 28, 2012, 09:22:29 am
Does anyone know if the mirrors on a Firebird will be a direct swap for those of a Camaro?
Also are they a bugger to do? It's the only thing I really don't like the look of on the outside is the mirrors and would be something I'd consider changing. Seeing as there are about 4 cars getting broken on eBay at the moment, I thought I might sieze the opportunity to fit some metal ones.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Gator on August 29, 2012, 08:14:24 pm
one of the best colours imo looks aweeter than a sweet thing (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
im pretty sure fbird mirrors aint the same
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 30, 2012, 05:42:31 am
Quoting: Gator
im pretty sure fbird mirrors aint the same
ah dang! Waiting on the guy whos breaking a 'maro in Ely to get back to me now.
its a lovely colour, though now suffering from immense paint peel! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 31, 2012, 11:47:57 am
Ok, need some club help now...
Who is an official, and who would be willing to sign an agreed value form? (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/dontknow.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Incursus on September 03, 2012, 12:04:08 pm
Quoting: Andy
Who is an official, and who would be willing to sign an agreed value form?
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/dontknow.gif)
I guess one of the big clubs? I assume this is a request from your insurance company?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on September 03, 2012, 03:01:41 pm
It's a necessary for the agreed value thing. Not compulsory but I guess rather than them turning around and saying its not worth that I might as well get it done.
Wondering if Ian could do it, or Andy? Needs either to be a club official who can sign it off or a specialist in the trade. I'll wait till the paper work shows up for more precise details.
As of tonight I'm insured though! Woohoo!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on September 04, 2012, 06:00:27 pm
Quoting: Andy
Who is an official, and who would be willing to sign an agreed value form?
Try Dave Redbourne ?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on September 04, 2012, 06:06:14 pm
Woohoo! My first drive on the road, of course the first place to hit up would be the petrol station!
Cashier thought I would've spent more than the £65 to fill it up. Got a nod from a guy filling up his TVR too.
I swear when you get ownership of one of these, with it comes a shopping basket on Rock Auto! Need to give the ignition system a once over as it has a misfire in top gear when bumbling along, under load it's fine. Dizzy cap, rotor arm, leads and plugs all in the basket. Depending on when I get a chance to look at it and decide what is what.
Either way, so very happy right now! Worried I might end up using it more than I should be, but still early days!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Fieldy on September 05, 2012, 11:10:05 pm
Quoting: Andy
Worried I might end up using it more than I should be, but still early days!
Quoting: Fieldy
*Start Hypnosis* You will drive it work, you will enjoy it, you will not worry for one day about fuel, remember, fuel will be more expensive tomorrow, enjoy it while it's at it's cheapest *Wake Up*
Still maintain what I said above.
One day you won't own this vehicle, enjoy it while you do.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 09, 2012, 07:46:50 am
Brought the car into work today as the garage over the way owes me a favour and is changing over my spark plugs and leads, hopefully to cure the when warm and only idling misfire I'm getting.
Had the dizzy arm and cap replaced by Robin at Autopontiac, although it was knackered it still hasn't cured this. I'm hoping the plugs will, but in fairness they haven't been changed in 10 years that we've owned it, so I'm guessing they're due anyway.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 11, 2012, 07:26:56 am
Right guys, some advice please :)
Got the plugs changed yesterday, I asked them to keep the old ones as a wanted to have a look and see what was going on. Good news is its complete cleared the miss fire it had, it now pulls like a train and has some what made me have to think twice before stepping on the gas without thinking!
However, the plugs. One was an original one, as I I think it's been in there since new, completely corroded exteriorer, gap about a mile wide. The mechanic said that's pretty much the hardest one to get at so can see why it wasn't changed. That didn't bother me, what did was another one which was properly carbonised and had oil all the way up the threads.
According to my book this could mean either one of two things. Valve stem seal gone or piston rings gone.
Now I've always wanted an excuse to get mucky and an engine rebuild would be awesome, but also very daunting.
So, what would you guys do? Carry on driving? Hook the motor out or try and repair in the car?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Motorama on October 11, 2012, 08:03:18 am
Drive it till it knocks, rattles or dies then rebuild it. Too many cars get taken off the road for work and never go back on again, life, marriage, kids, redundancy etc all take over. Enjoy the car for while, whilst you still can
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on October 11, 2012, 08:07:45 am
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/plusone.gif)
Unless it is un-driveable or you really want a restoration project, just use it.
Alternatively, you could buy another engine and rebuild that whilst yours is on the road, then swap them at your lesure safe in the knowledge that you will have one of the two engines working at any one time. You could even build a higher-spec, more powerful engine (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/dontknow.gif)
That's the plan with my bus anyway, two engines, one stock-ish, the other a fast-street stroker. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/mechanic2.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 11, 2012, 10:31:07 am
Yeah I'm gonna go with Andy of this, although I just got blasted the same by Dave!
He said that engine should put up with any abuse I give it as long as I make sure it has oil in it.
The second engine option is tempting, but I'm clueless on where to start looking for one short of getting a knackered old car and taking it from that. Plus it would have to be intergrated into the current ecu, stuff like that starts to scare the shit out of me. However it's a thought...
On a plus note, a local car refurb guy quoted me £100 to respray the rear deck lid, all I need to do is supply a paint code. Apart from saying its GM teal I need to get searching.
Title: Finally!
Post by: FUBAR on October 11, 2012, 11:37:44 am
Quoting: Andy
what did was another one which was properly carbonised and had oil all the way up the threads.
My IROC does the same thing on 2 cylinders, it will be the valve stem seals. So far I have just stuck with pulling the 2 i know foul up twice a year, giving them a good clean up, check the gaps then put them back in. I do this as its going away for winter & about 1/2 way through "driving season"
had no problems so far, one day I will do the seals properly. if you're driving the car all year round you'll need to do this every 4 months.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 11, 2012, 11:42:23 am
Valve stem seals can be done in the car, with heads on the block . . . It ain't easy but is simple enough as long as you're careful.
Rings ? I wouldn't worry about them. It's possible but don't fret. Do the stem seals, I'm sure that'll help . . . and it's a cheapie job, on the driveway one sunday.
EDIT -
If you wanna do an engine rebuild - that's great.
Just get a cheapie 305ci on ebay and do that - NOT the one in your car . . . .
Believe me, It'll take 1000 times longer to do, cost 100 times more than expected, be 10 times harder and involved than anticipated and will test your patience more than you can imagine.
That's a nasty combination when your pride and joy is the one in bits.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Jamieg285 on October 11, 2012, 12:11:10 pm
I'd recommend the 2nd engine option too, although you do need good self control.
It's too easy to just upgrade this bit and that bit, and you end up with a massive shopping list.
Take your time, keep an eye out for a used engine and build it up slowly. When ready, all you need to do is remove the old one and put the new one in it's place.
Then the cycle repeats as you rebuild the original... a bit better than the first one (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 11, 2012, 02:15:07 pm
This sounds like a winner of an idea, can already hear my credit card crying. Ill keep my eyes peeled and see what is floating about on eBay.
It would be nice to know which one it was but the guy doing them only kept them, not noted which hole they came out of. When I went to pick it up he didn't look so pleased about it.
Ryan, ill have to ask you how you go about pulling them? HRC told me they're a bitch from the top, not much easier from underneath.
Ill get a photo up of the plugs when I get home. I guess it must've been running on 6 at some point, can't believe the original plug in there would've been putting out much of a spark, nor the carbonised one either.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 11, 2012, 04:54:27 pm
Pulling the plugs uses a combination of tools . . . . I use(d) a cut-down plug-socket with a hex on the end and a ratchet spanner for some of the tight ones.
Although the engine bay on mine is considerably clearer than yours my headers are massive so I made a new socket using a short 5/8" socket then ground two flats on it.
You can get special plug tools, too which do the same but after trying one I found my home-made jobbie gave me more clearance.
It's not a hard job . . . just time consuming.
Once you've done it once you tend to remember the specific tricks and tools for each one.
It's like an initiation. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rofls.gif)
If you decide to do the stem seals do all of them - there's no point half-arsing that. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/wink.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 12, 2012, 02:18:02 pm
Having read a how to guide on doing it in the car with the heads on, I fear there is far too much risk of fudging that up!
I'm going to see how it goes for the next couple of months. I don't intend on 'putting it away' for winter but will only take it out if its dry. I haven't and still don't want to experience this issue that have with roundabouts!
Dave has shown me what the dangers are as we're both sure it has a shift kit fitted and it has a tendency to chirp from 1-2 on the change.
I have added a new search on evilBay, which could be pretty interesting!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Jamieg285 on October 12, 2012, 02:21:14 pm
If you're worried about doing it with the heads in place, your 2nd engine plan comes in again.
Get the complete spare engine, strip and repair the heads on that, then simply swap them over. All the time consuming, fiddly work can be done without taking the car off the road, and it's a quick job to swap them.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 12, 2012, 02:48:11 pm
Yeah, that's what I'm looking at doing now. My new search on eBay is Chevy v8 305 350.
It's definitely the better way to go. If it happens and when it comes to it ill call upon the local hot Rodders club, they're all far too keen to help out with stuff like this!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 12, 2012, 02:55:11 pm
Stick with the 305 for now.
Unless you want to do a power build, that is.
A 350 will cost around double and the difference only worthwhile if you're going to be tweeking it.
Also the 350's ran for a longer period of time so you could end up buying non-compatible parts if you're not careful.
The 305's are much more specific (as GM gets) so it's a cheaper, safer, n00b bet.
Look on Rods n Sods . . . engines turn up there almost everyday !!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 12, 2012, 03:01:11 pm
Is yours a TBI model ?
What's the full specs ?
I'll try and advise . . . . (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 12, 2012, 03:32:12 pm
1991 TBI, complete standard, only thing in a mechanical way that the car has had is a gearbox refurb about 20k ago.
Everyone always says TPI>TBI and I can see why, but there is quite charm that the TBI has.
I guess if I did go ahead and do this I'd be looking at a few tweaks. I'd want to desmog it first! I will have to take the insurers advice though.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 12, 2012, 03:47:03 pm
I like carbs. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
TBI's act a lot like carbs but the choices are limited with regards to manifolds etc . . . .
I'm guessing it's an Auto ?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 12, 2012, 07:14:25 pm
Yep, the refurb is where we reckon the shift kit was fitted. This is all going by my Dads knowledge. He fitted a shift kit in his Mustang when he ran Super Street and he says it changes exactly the same. Whether Fubar can agree that it shifts pretty hard or not I don't know. Easily capable of chirping from 1st to 2nd though.
I was reading up on the TBIs didn't realise they weren't carbs, I thought the whole TBI was dressed up way of say carb verses their TPI system. Although having seen the cost of getting the injectors replaced if they ever go, I'm glad mine only has two!
On Thirdgen.org there was some chatter about changing manifolds over. Also a lot of hate for the stock setup (inlet and outlet) and the way they're both very restrictive in their design and performance.
To be honest just now after coming back from a 40 minute drive, right now I wouldn't change a thing. So far its cost me £50 for a rotor arm and dizzy cap, fully fitted (now I know how I won't need to have someone do it) and £22 for plugs, £50 for leads. She runs like a charmer. My only issue is this odd surging it does when the A/C side of the heater is turned on. Makes no sense, except I know the A/C is out of gas.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 12, 2012, 09:49:42 pm
Both the TBI and Carb manifolds were pretty old hat and crap compared to the TPI.
Hood clearance is an issue .... some numpty put a Torker II on my old 305. Utter rubbish until you hit 5K .... which was rarely.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 14, 2012, 06:34:23 pm
Got to have my first proper drive since having the plugs done. Absolutely love it. Sounds, pulls, does everything so so much better. In fact I got caught out in the rain yesterday... oops.
BUT, as ever, one problem fixed, theres always something else. Took my friend Penny out for a spin for some drinks, as you do. Dropped her off, on the way home I noticed the 'INFLA REST' light flashing just after I turned the heater off. Was a bit like, wtf? Carried on driving, it stopped flashing. Then I thought, 'hmm, my headlights seem a bit dim' then the cd front started turning on and off and I was like shiiit. Battery voltage. Just above 8v.
I was only a mile from home, and did a few cheeky bits with no lights on, but I thought I best not push it. Luckily got it home. Absolutely no response to the throttle, the batter meter made no movements, nor did the lights. I've put this down to the alternator being shagged in some form or another. This is the only time I've actually driven with the lights on, so I assume its them that has caused the battery drain.
So tomorrow I'm looking at hooking that off and getting it tested at work. Should be another fun job.
Any pitfalls with removing the serpetine? I have AC which I've read makes it harder?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 14, 2012, 08:42:08 pm
Serp should be easy.
From memory there's the tensioner that takes a direct 3/8" square drive . . . take the tension and slip the belt off.
It helps to have two people when you put it back on but it's do-able with one.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 15, 2012, 09:51:37 am
Cool stuff, it looks like I best check the wiring first. There's a fusable link inbetween the DC out and battery connection.
Would be quite awkward to go to the efforts of changing the alternator to find its a fuse gone...
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 16, 2012, 05:26:19 am
Ok, so left the battery on charge over night and through the day yesterday. Bolted it back when I got in and checked the volted. I had 12.3v on the terminals.
Fired the car up, and had 12.2v at the battery terminals. Then checked across the output post of the alternator and to the case of the alternator. Again 12.2v.
I then loaded up the charging system, lights, heater, fog light stereo. The battery voltage dropped down to 11.5v and was pretty solid. I left the car running for a good while, but it didn't get hot enough for the cooling fans to come on. So I guess that would further draw the battery voltage down.
From this I guess I'm looking at a knackered alternator, unless anyone else reckons theres something else?
Title: Finally!
Post by: art b on October 16, 2012, 07:27:50 am
you should be getting just over 14v when charging, it may be the voltage/diode pack in the alt which may be replaceable(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/dontknow.gif)
check out, 3rd gen .org
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 16, 2012, 08:47:36 am
I'm all over thirdgen.org like a dodgy rash.
I reckon it's shagged. The Haynes manual says as much, just wanted to make sure the way I was checking was right.
Next question then, does anyone stock these over here?!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 16, 2012, 09:38:58 am
Quoting: Andy
Next question then, does anyone stock these over here?!
Probably . . . but getting it from the states will almost certainly be cheaper.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Jamieg285 on October 16, 2012, 11:02:47 am
Quoting: Roadkill
uoting: Andy Next question then, does anyone stock these over here?!
Probably . . . but getting it from the states will almost certainly be cheaper.
True, but always check on small, heavy items. Occasionally it works out the same or cheaper, and it means you can get it quicker.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 16, 2012, 11:12:08 am
From my experience buying sparkplugs Rock Auto ship faster and cheaper than US Auto in Bedford.
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/lol.gif) but (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/down.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 16, 2012, 12:33:20 pm
Ruddy Nora! Just rang OCW on Dave's advice to get a price. Genuine AC Delco alternator is £250!
Off to see what Rock Auto can offer me! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/shame.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 16, 2012, 12:43:17 pm
See Facebook - £124 ACDelco, from Rock Auto (inc. Shipping and charges)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 16, 2012, 01:40:12 pm
Haha, yeah cheers Dean. Your comment though about £20 to clear FedEx, does Rock Auto not add that on automatically? I thought they did that's all.
I'm going to hook it off tonight and actually verify its knackered. Somebody said, take the output cable off and check the alternator to deck. Now that's not a bad idea but all the same, I don't like the idea of positive cable flapping about with the engine running! It might come to that later.
I've been meaning to update this for the pics of the spark plugs. Nothing amazing but shows a couple of extremes, one in being in there too long, the other in being carbonised!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 16, 2012, 01:53:44 pm
Quoting: Andy
Your comment though about £20 to clear FedEx, does Rock Auto not add that on automatically? I thought they did that's all.
Click the part. Then proceed as if you were going to pay and it adds it after at the bottom.
All in with a re-manufactured one I got it coming out at £124 or £135 for a new one (both ACDelco). That's with FedEx priority International and VAT added.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 16, 2012, 05:43:37 pm
Ok, trying another channel first, the guy who did my spark plugs has a guy who remanufactures them depending on their shape. So he'll do a no obligation quote. Might as well. I'm in no rush to get it going again.
It does make up for how much of a bitch it is to do the spark plugs.
10 mins, about 4 or five different tools and two different size torx head bolts (assholes!) and its off.
It already has a label on it saying its a remanufactured AC Delco Part, which is a bit odd, unless its been off before?!
On to the photos...
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/487480_10151218635793308_1068306366_n.jpg) The hole left behind
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/282339_10151218635928308_1250892218_n.jpg) Learning how a pretensioner works
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/285779_10151218636078308_2003979562_n.jpg) The close fit of the +ve out and the rocker cover
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1029_10151218636293308_1331477897_n.jpg) The bitch is out!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 16, 2012, 06:00:13 pm
Oh and the spark plugs, not terribly interesting, but here you go...
6 decent condition NGK BPR4FS, nice wear on them all and standard tan colour... I was one digit out and fitted NGK BPR5FS's if it makes any difference. (http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm162/andydpics/0103F25A-318C-4720-805D-DC41FBE17A4D-2936-000002C443462765.jpg)
1 'AC' brand plug, rusted solid in the block, seems original with the car, sited above the subframe and a 'bastard' to get out. (http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm162/andydpics/61B1AA18-5F96-4CB3-9B67-7C11C92C5F98-2936-000002C452225148.jpg)
Nice .080" gap, compared to the .035" they're meant to be! (http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm162/andydpics/1E460C5E-3CFD-4DD0-8984-15843377959B-2936-000002C45A844A6F.jpg)
Oh, and will bored and in control of a VMC, thought I might as well make up a replacement cigarette socket plug! Ironic as the fuse has blown for the socket... (http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm162/andydpics/e5f4bf90.jpg)
Title: Finally!
Post by: art b on October 16, 2012, 07:02:18 pm
tbh.. the alt looks like many others .. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/wink.gif)
that could be reconditioned, or a similar one would be available here
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 16, 2012, 09:10:00 pm
Quoting: Andy
The close fit of the +ve out and the rocker cover
You should see some of the aftermarket valvecovers !!!
What VMC have you got ?
Might be looking for some serious one-off milling next year . . . . (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 16, 2012, 10:55:52 pm
That was just a quick bit of engraving on the Haas Mini Mill. Had it clocked up with a chuck, quick like program and boom! Turned the main part on an old Colchester Master we have sat in the corner. The thing is so shagged its hilarious.
Apart from the Haas Mini Mill, we have a Bridgeport VMC 800 with Heidenhain control. No fancy stuff though, only 3 axis.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 17, 2012, 08:42:25 am
Hmm. I could probably design it for a 3-axis . . . It's a way-off, yet, though !
I miss not having machines to play with . . . . (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/can.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Jamieg285 on October 17, 2012, 10:59:38 am
Have a look at doing the alt rebuild yourself. Once you've worked out how it comes apart, it's a real easy job to do.
Far cheaper than a complete replacement.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Jamieg285 on October 17, 2012, 11:04:06 am
Quoting: Andy
6 decent condition NGK BPR4FS, nice wear on them all and standard tan colour... I was one digit out and fitted NGK BPR5FS's if it makes any difference.
Different heat range. You've gone for a slightly 'cooler' plug. Just one number should be OK.
Quoting: Wikipedia
It was common before the modern era of computerized fuel injection to specify at least a couple of different heat ranges for plugs for an automobile engine; a hotter plug for cars which were mostly driven slowly around the city, and a colder plug for sustained high speed highway use.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 17, 2012, 12:16:04 pm
Quoting: Roadkill
Hmm. I could probably design it for a 3-axis . . . It's a way-off, yet, though !
I miss not having machines to play with . .
Cool stuff, well let me know when you know, and I'll see what I can do.
Quoting: Jamieg285
Have a look at doing the alt rebuild yourself. Once you've worked out how it comes apart, it's a real easy job to do.
Far cheaper than a complete replacement.
I have just dropped it off in the garage who did my spark plugs, as an alternative was getting someone to rebuild it. If I can get it rebuilt with a warranty that'll probably work out cheaper at the moment. Will see, I could only see the rectify pack for sale and I was hoping I could get a complete service kit. Part of our work here is manufacturing small DC motors so we're pretty clues up on these types of bits of kit. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Cheers for the info on the plugs. I used an online conversion tool, and thats what came up as a direct replacement for the stock Champion ones. They seem absolutely fine. It does stumble a little when idling, but then so does my focus every so often, I think its only because I'm listening for it that I can hear it.
While I've got the alternator off I was going to change the serpentine as its not been changed since we've had the car, thought might as well, then stick the old one in the boot. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 25, 2012, 06:13:18 am
A week or so later and I've had the unit returned.
Been told its be fully remanufactured, new bearings, slip rings, brushes, regulator, lick of paint and even what looks like a new front pulley.
Either way it looks spanking, comes with a two year warranty, has cost just under what a reconditioned one on RockAuto would've cost.
I've now got mates rates status with the garage as he didn't want anything more than they were charging him.
Apologies for the photo quality. I tried and failed to sort the lens out on my camera with a dremel and failed miserably...
Title: Finally!
Post by: art b on October 25, 2012, 09:56:38 am
good news then....(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif) probably better than a new un...(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/wink.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 25, 2012, 11:33:40 am
Yeah, now on the hunt for a replacement belt. Why does such simple things like belts have such a mark up!?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 25, 2012, 12:29:15 pm
Quoting: Andy
Yeah, now on the hunt for a replacement belt. Why does such simple things like belts have such a mark up!?
I just ask my local guy to order one in . . . the numbers on the belt relate to their length in mm.
Or use a piece of string and give your guy the length.
It's what I've always done. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 25, 2012, 12:35:11 pm
Just found the number on this belt, Eurocar Parts has one that is 6PK2404 where I need 6PK2400, I guess the 4 mm won't make too much difference, will it? (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/confused.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 25, 2012, 02:26:18 pm
No, it won't.
The 6PK is the Ribs thru the cross section (grooves in your pulleys) - normally 5PK or 6PK and obviously the 2400 is the mm length.
I had fun getting one for mine as I'm only running an alternator it was only 600mm long !
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 25, 2012, 03:06:18 pm
Found tonnes of short ones on a bearing website this morning. Rang up one of our suppliers and told him the 6PK bit which he said, 'yep fine,' then the length, he went 'nah, we don't do about 1000'
Ended up ringing eurocar parts, they matched it to a 2404 one, and as its only £17 +vat worth a punt. The old one isnt knackered but I thought might as well change it as I'm doing it. Reading on third gen there's two routings for it, one that avoids the smog pump... (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 25, 2012, 03:11:28 pm
I never pay more than £10 for a belt. That's not bad from Eurocar Parts, though, I suppose . . .
Never tackled de-smogging . . . Can't be hard, though . . . (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 25, 2012, 06:40:06 pm
Balls!
Seems I may have jumped the gun with my alternator conclusion/ issue.
Fitted it this evening with the new belt, everything hunky dory, followed the belt diagram etc.
Started her up expecting to see the volt meter pinned just north of 13v... Nope. Somewhere between 13 and the first division below. Put a meter on the battery, have again 12.3v, put a meter on the output of the alternator and the casing 12.3v. Now either the alternator is duff or I have a short circuit somewhere that's draining the output?! If that's even possible?
Any ideas guys?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 26, 2012, 08:28:02 am
Electrickery is not my forte, I'm afraid.
I always assume battery or alternator . . . . If it's neither then I give up. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/sofa.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: art b on October 26, 2012, 10:22:04 am
is the batt good , it ''may'' be that dragging it down, i dont know what else is involved on the system tbh...(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/dontknow.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 26, 2012, 01:46:04 pm
I guess it could be the battery but it had been on charge for over a week while the alternator was being refurbed. Before I put it back in I had a solid 12.3 across the terminals. With it hooked up and running I still have a solid 12.3. It gets dragged down with the lights getting turned on etc. I need to cover the basics again before I throw this alternator back at them.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 28, 2012, 10:40:55 am
I thought the battery should be more than that ?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 28, 2012, 11:36:43 am
I thought a 12v battery should as standard, have 12v on it. It gets 'overcharged' normally around the 14v mark to make sure the load doesn't lower the battery voltage below 12v. A car battery should be around the 12v figure basically.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 28, 2012, 06:22:57 pm
Ok, so apart from barely getting above 10 degrees outside, I've just spent the afternoon with the tools under the hood.
I had left the battery in the car and before I started I thought I'd best check the voltage out of circuit. It read 12.8v. That in my opinion is quite a good sign. Its been almost down to zero every night since I put it back in and hasn't died. If anything, seems to have charged a little...
Once in circuit the voltage at the terminals drops to 12.3v. I understand that to be normal, that'll be all the circuits/ecu/alarm taking their feed.
Now I've had a chat with Robin at AutoPontiac and he told me that the alternator plug on the top should have two wires going to it, which mine does. The thick one has a constant 12v feed from the battery. The second less thicker one has an 'ignition on' 12v supply, this being the exciter input.
Now this is where I need some MKB help. *hint hint* Ryan. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/wink.gif)
I would really appreciate someone with a 3rd gen, turn your ignition on and without starting it, remove the plug from the alternator and checking what the thin wire has on it in terms of voltage. Mine has battery voltage, but I've seen elsewhere it shouldn't be this much.
I need this information just before I bounce the alternator back to the remanufacturer.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 29, 2012, 12:39:00 pm
Quoting: Andy
Ok, so apart from barely getting above 10 degrees outside, I've just spent the afternoon with the tools under the hood.
Pfft.
Try doing handbrake cables in the snow with no jack or axle stands !
Quoting: Andy
I would really appreciate someone with a 3rd gen, turn your ignition on and without starting it, remove the plug from the alternator and checking what the thin wire has on it in terms of voltage. Mine has battery voltage, but I've seen elsewhere it shouldn't be this much.
Would happily volunteer but; firstly my engine is in bits so not even should what it'd say at the moment and, secondly, I doubt mine would say anywhere near what it's supposed to with the set-up it's got.
Fubar's definitely your man. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 29, 2012, 01:07:31 pm
Well after reading quite a few threads on 3rdgen.org I think I'm just gonna hook it off a fire it back at them. I haven't paid yet, and won't until I get a unit that works. I will this time include a little diagram of the plug socket as I wonder if they haven't just wired up the voltage regulator exciter to the wrong pin out.
Who knows. I know I've got the supplies I'm meant to have. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 09, 2012, 11:43:18 am
Got the alternator back, again. Fitted it, again. Done any work, again.
After some digging on the Internet I'm waiting for a phone call back from the remanufactures as there's a possibility they haven't wired it or they've put the wrong rectifier in. There are four pins on the plug and only two on the wiring harness plug. But after reading a bunch of info online there are various options that this comes wired as.
The only good thing is it isn't exactly driving weather, so I'm not too fussed about not being able to take it out.
This weekend will see me looking at constructing a suitable car cover/awning as the condensation in the car isn't getting any better.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 12, 2012, 02:48:27 pm
Spent all afternoon Saturday working on this alternator, and I can't for love nor money get any voltage out of it.
I'm now left with a predicament, this alternator was sent of for refurbishment, it's come back twice now not working with my car. They insist it works on their test rig, but it won't on my car.
I've just bit the bullet and ordered one from Real Steel which is a brand new unit. Touch wood it's going to plug and play. If it does, what do I do with the other one? Can I simply say you guys have this, it doesn't work I'm not paying £xxx for something that doesn't work?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on November 12, 2012, 03:45:25 pm
Quoting: Andy
If it does, what do I do with the other one? Can I simply say you guys have this, it doesn't work I'm not paying £xxx for something that doesn't work?
Possibly, it might get a bit messy when dealing with 'the boys' who don't understand consumer rights. Totally different when you're in a highstreet shop, but a back-alley alternator place might try and tell you to f-off (even thought you are totally in the right).
How did you pay for it? (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/dontknow.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 12, 2012, 06:35:01 pm
This isn't a back alley place by all accounts, don't want to name them, as yet nothings been said, waiting for this other one to turn up.
Bit pissed as I've rung them twice asking them to get the technician to ring me back and twice they haven't. I end up chasing them.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 13, 2012, 04:44:29 pm
Brand new alternator arrived today, very shiny USA made, hoping it'll work. If it doesn't I'm stumped!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on November 13, 2012, 06:29:41 pm
Fit it now!
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/snacking.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 13, 2012, 07:21:55 pm
Done. Fitted. 14.8v. Happy Andy!
Took it out for a spin, yet again put a massive smile on my face. So very happy to have a working running car!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 13, 2012, 07:26:35 pm
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on November 13, 2012, 10:48:52 pm
Happy days !
Should've got it from the states in the first place (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/wink.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 14, 2012, 12:32:39 am
Well funny you should say that, its a brand new USA unit, sold by a company in Uxbridge who sell non-counterfeit Steel. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif) and it was only £90.
Now the battle with this refurb company....
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on November 14, 2012, 10:16:07 am
Quoting: Andy
Done. Fitted. 14.8v. Happy Andy!
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/clap3.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Incursus on November 14, 2012, 11:31:37 am
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rock.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: art b on November 14, 2012, 01:09:47 pm
good news.... (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/cool.gif)
electrickery... is the work of the devil...(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/can.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 14, 2012, 01:42:55 pm
Well I reckon these refurbers don't know what the requirements are. I've told them it only has two wire on the multiplug, how there's a constant live plus an exciter supply. They're absolutely adamant it works on their test rig. Either way it doesn't work on my car.
A question for those that have done exhaust work. Does the last rear muffler do anything for the emissions? I was thinking of fabbing up some straight pipes from the rear axle and delete the muffler. I can't get how quiet it is, needs more burble!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on November 14, 2012, 02:00:19 pm
Quoting: Andy
A question for those that have done exhaust work. Does the last rear muffler do anything for the emissions?
Mine didn't . . . . It got severed one ride back on the motorway so I cut it off just behind the drivers seat area . . .
It still passed emissions - although they had to crawl under the car to get the sniffer in.
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
It did get louder, though mine didn't have any other mufflers on it (no cat).
I also had headers on mine which will make it slightly louder, normally.
Why don't you cut it off and see how it sounds . . . you can easily just re-connect it with a sleeve if it sounds silly. Then maybe consider removing it for good after or getting a cat-back ?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 14, 2012, 03:38:24 pm
Yeah I need to do some investigating as to what it has to have regards a cat.
I'd love some twin tips pointing out the back, it has them at the moment but they're tucked up under the rear bumper and pointing down. Going by memory it has a single pipe from the collectors that goes down the passenger side over the rear axle and into a big ass muffler.
I wanna just run two pipes to either side with no muffler.
Ill try just taking it off, I think it's just bolted in there and not welded.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on November 14, 2012, 04:20:48 pm
Quoting: Andy
Going by memory it has a single pipe from the collectors that goes down the passenger side over the rear axle and into a big ass muffler.
Sounds about right - EDIT cat is normally under the passenger seat area, IIRC.
Quoting: Andy
I wanna just run two pipes to either side with no muffler.
The cat-back kit Fubar got had a choice of baffle plates to suit your taste in noise, IIRC . . . The sound he's got is a nice burbley noise whereas the sound that comes from mine (completely unbaffled) is very harsh.
Quoting: Andy
Ill try just taking it off, I think it's just bolted in there and not welded.
Good theory but you'll probably find it's rusted solid. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 18, 2012, 02:58:53 pm
What a day, got a really nice drive out today. So nice having a running car, pulls like stink but have to seriously look at my driving style, as being honest, I don't fully understand the whole gearbox and kick down thing.
Have to look at the condensation issue from the leaking t-tops. Thats on the list for next year as I've read its not a great to do it in cold and damp conditions. Plus import the kit from somewhere.
Been quoted £100 to respray the rear deck panel which is getting worse and worse with each car wash (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/sad.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 24, 2012, 05:57:33 pm
Bit of an update, just not for me...
I knew Dave regretted offering me the car, and i have the feeling he may have been hoping i wasn't so keen. Anyway, rather than have it back he found a replacement on ebay which we went and picked up today.
It was in Kent so we had a long slog around the M25 in torrential rain to go get it.
its a nice car, an RS in white with t-tops, has been de-smogged, edlebrook headers, 3" cat back exhaust, Superior rear half shafts and a bunch of tubular rear suspension parts. Lowered at the front with adjustable shocks all round.
Waiting till tomorrow to get under it and find the full spec on what its got going for it. First thing that it needs is a new set of tyres all round and a good clean.
Pics to come tomorrow.
Title: Finally!
Post by: F Body on November 24, 2012, 07:29:20 pm
Quoting: Andy
he found a replacement on ebay
Dangerous place that E gay (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rtfm.gif)
Still you can't have too many F Body's (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/wink.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 26, 2012, 11:19:52 am
Work update:
Fitted new bonnet struts that I recieved off of Dean. Note to self, one bonnet strut will not hold up the hood, don't be so keen to remove the prop half way through the job to admire it.
Also took the time to de-gunk my drains around the windscreen, as well as doing a little clean of the bay. Also checked the bolts holding the alternator is. Oil and tranny fluids checked too.
Next was to dry out the car, so opened all the doors, removed the tops, opened the hatch. Got as much moisture of the windows as I could and let the rest evaporate. While having the top off I took the opportunity to adjust the hold down anchor on the a and b pillar. I notice one side was high compared to the other so made them both level and lowered them a bit. I'm getting a bit desperate to stop the roof leaking but I know the only cure is going to be a new set of seals.
After this, with the tops down, I took her out for a long drive. Having never had a convertible or car with removable tops it really is nice. She got up to temperature and was running a charm, had a couple of thumbs up driving through Henley and the drove back up the A404 following an old yank.
Dave and I spent a bit of time working and cleaning his and generally drawing up a list of things to do. First thing is sort the radio. Someone at some point had put an aftermarket jobby in it and had cut the factory plugs off. Using some quality Googling power he managed to sus out the radio pin out vs. the wire colours fitted. We got the factory radio running again but only through one speaker, which needs more investigating. It was all a bit pointless though as it turns out its a Japanese radio and tunes to the wrong frequencies for here!
After all that, we have it a good clean, white really is a nice colour once clean, but what a bitch to get clean! The aero package has seen better days, the chin is shot to pieces thanks to the 2" drop the front has. The passenger door mirror has had a knock at some point and needs fixing. On the whole though it seems a solid car with just a few little scruffy bits.
It has got a limited slip diff, as its made a mess of the drive when turning it. That also probably explains the completely scuffed rear tyres.
Title: Finally!
Post by: F Body on November 26, 2012, 05:32:36 pm
Quoting: Andy
It was all a bit pointless though as it turns out its a Japanese radio and tunes to the wrong frequencies for here!
I did have one of those Japanese radio converters, came fitted to our Jap import Astro Van. It just plugs into the radio aerial socket and is powered off the radio live terminal. It spilts the signal back into UK frequencies.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on November 26, 2012, 05:44:43 pm
Quoting: Andy
Note to self, one bonnet strut will not hold up the hood, don't be so keen to remove the prop half way through the job to admire it.
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rofls.gif)
Although one of my new hatch struts could hold up a house ! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/shame.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Incursus on November 26, 2012, 07:05:11 pm
Quoting: Andy
turns out its a Japanese radio and tunes to the wrong frequencies for here
My Mustang has a Japanese radio, gets Radio 2 so no problem for me. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 28, 2012, 08:29:20 am
Ah yeah, we have a frequency shifter on the shelf that got removed from my one, still means the display is miles out.
Dave spent a fair bit of time the other night sussing out what exactly the last 'audio engineering genius' did under there. The dash speakers are only connected on one side, there are two component speakers fitted to the doors and only one of the b pillar speakers are connected!
I think the whole task is a bit pointless though as the 3" exhaust makes too much noise, but it's something for him to do. Just costing up some tyres. Northants seem to be the only ones flogging BF's, £120 a corner it looks like too!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Motorama on November 28, 2012, 11:24:08 am
What size tyres? Have you tried Camskill, their prices are normally good
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 28, 2012, 07:05:04 pm
Will check Camskill, hadn't thought of them, or blackcircles.
I think they're 245 60 R15, will have to double check.
A question for you guys, after all this alternator trouble I think my battery is on its last legs. Looking for a screw side terminal battery, seen these Optima Batteries, are they any cop?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Motorama on November 28, 2012, 07:15:19 pm
Optima batteries are the best! Are they side post though? I put a new battery on my Suburban 6 months ago bought from John Wollfe and im already having problems with it as i only use the truck a few times a month
Title: Finally!
Post by: FUBAR on November 29, 2012, 12:00:04 am
Quoting: Andy
I think they're 245 60 R15, will have to double check.
Correct if you have Non IROC wheels, the IROCs wheels are 245 50 R16 which is the same as a 4th gen.
Don't buy Cooper Cobras in either size as i've been told many a time they're slippery as hell, and generally (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/fish2.gif)
In the UK, Kumho Ecsta's are good, Steve has had them on his 4th gen for years and swears by them, durable and sticky and a decent tread pattern. assuming they're still around (not looked for a while) i'll be getting those when the IROC's boots finally need replacing.
Title: Finally!
Post by: FUBAR on November 29, 2012, 12:06:39 am
additional:
realised advise given above is not applicable to your wheel size, the last person i know who bought tyres for 15" camaro wheels was Philo who had the Cooper's mounted white lettering inwards, as above he wasn't too happy.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 29, 2012, 08:20:21 am
Cool stuff Ryan, cheers for that!
Dave I think is set on BF's, he has Coopers fitted to the mustang and probably couldn't tell if it wondered all over the place... Cos it does just wonder all over the place by itself!
Currently looking for some strong chemicals to shift the years of dirt and brake dust on the alloys. F Body would have a fit!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on November 29, 2012, 09:02:03 am
Quoting: Andy
Currently looking for some strong chemicals to shift the years of dirt and brake dust on the alloys. F Body would have a fit!
Easy buddy, I'm sure you already know, but you don't want anything that will damage the lacquer on the alloy.
I know a guy in Northampton who will recondition a wheel to look brand-new for £30 a wheel. That includes filling any cracks, chips and curbing, a coat of new paint and a fresh lacquer. Let me know if you want his details. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/security.gif)
Otherwise, I would stick to scrubbing and some clit-bang, wiped-off quite quickly. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/polish.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Jamieg285 on November 29, 2012, 12:30:15 pm
Optima batteries - yes they get good reviews. Make sure you go for Red top, not Yellow.
Does it have to be side post? Might be a good opportunity to replace the battery cables and get a top post battery that is easier to get replacements for.
Tyres - BF's are generally considered the best white letter tyres available over here, but you have to pay the premium for them. I went for the Coopers, and can't say I've had a problem with them (on 2nd set now).
I don't know what the current situation with imported tyres is now, but when I bought last year there were troubles as the EU had stated that you can't import tyres created with 'dirty oil', and most of the tyres we want fell into that category. To further add to this, I got an email from etyres this week telling me about another stupid EU directive that states that all new tyres have to have specific markings on them regarding grip/performance etc. I don't know if the US tyres adhere to this or not.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Jamieg285 on November 29, 2012, 12:37:49 pm
Actually, I'm talking bollocks!
I wanted to get the Coopers a 2nd time, but there were only 3 in the country and due to the dirty oil thing they couldn't get any more. (I found out later there was a 4th, but it's bolted to Roadkills coffee table (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif) )
Ended up getting 'Hercules HP4000' which is very similar to the Cooper Cobra's, but a bit lower spec. Not the best, but not bad either.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 29, 2012, 12:40:40 pm
Quoting: Cunning Plan
Easy buddy, I'm sure you already know, but you don't want anything that will damage the lacquer on the alloy.
I know a guy in Northampton who will recondition a wheel to look brand-new for £30 a wheel. That includes filling any cracks, chips and curbing, a coat of new paint and a fresh lacquer. Let me know if you want his details.
Otherwise, I would stick to scrubbing and some clit-bang, wiped-off quite quickly.
10-4 Big Daddy... I would've used some wonder wheels if I still had some left, but the best I had was the Karcher and a stiff brush. Got a fair amount off, but still dirty. Just like mine, they're colour coded so really need to look spanking otherwise it brings the whole car down.
Clit-bang eh? Do I ask for that at the counter?
Quoting: Jamieg285
Optima batteries - yes they get good reviews. Make sure you go for Red top, not Yellow.
I would like to keep the original wiring, but you're right, changing to top posts wouldn't be a bad idea. I don't know what the price comparisons are for like for like batteries but I just know its hard to source one. Found one company selling standard batteries with side posts but they seem to be of an unknown brand. Leaves me a little unsure.
Quoting: Jamieg285
Tyres - BF's are generally considered the best white letter tyres available over here, but you have to pay the premium for them. I went for the Coopers, and can't say I've had a problem with them (on 2nd set now).
I don't know what the current situation with imported tyres is now, but when I bought last year there were troubles as the EU had stated that you can't import tyres created with 'dirty oil', and most of the tyres we want fell into that category. To further add to this, I got an email from etyres this week telling me about another stupid EU directive that states that all new tyres have to have specific markings on them regarding grip/performance etc. I don't know if the US tyres adhere to this or not.
Noted, will have to leave this to the supplier though. I think both me and Dave will take the approach, if they sold it, its their problem. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Cheers for the replies guys!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on December 08, 2012, 05:11:32 pm
Blowing off some winter blues by taking the car out today. Some might have seen my status on Fagbook, but kinda was only meant to be a run round the block, but was too much like fun, so turned into a lovely winter drive.
Ended up treating the girl to some new tech. It had been running that old headunit CP sold me, but I think the damp has got the better of it, plus its eaten and as yet hasn't shown any signs of giving me back my Darkness cd! So picked up a really really cheap Sony unit, had to be Sony as the plug thats hard wired in was Sony. Works a charm, set up out of the box, running good. Didn't realise but it even streams music from my iPhone, which is handy.
Not much to report other than that. Will be thoroughly cleaning her tomorrow, doing some final fluid check before drying her out and wrapping her up for winter. There is a run at the end of the year I want to do, but that'll be dependant on the weather.
Dave took his out today as well, but has transmission issues he wants to address. He can't stand the clunking of the exhaust system over the rear axle, so that may be coming off next year.
Title: Finally!
Post by: art b on December 08, 2012, 06:50:29 pm
Title: Finally!
Post by: art b on December 21, 2012, 06:40:31 pm
sounds like your incontinent (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 02, 2013, 01:33:13 am
Finally get a good bit of weather, so no excuse for not getting the rad out.
I currently have a really really bad water leak in the car. Going to need to sort that out sometime this year.
Anyway, following both Haynes and Chiltons manurals, I sussed this one out. Only difficult bit was the lack of room between the fan shroud and the serpentine belt.
Firstly unhook the battery and remove from the car, then unclip the fan from the wiring loom, then remove 4 x 13mm A/F bolts, which removes the fan from the shroud and mount on the bottom.
Then remove the air intake hose to allow more room for removing the radiator and getting at the top hose.
Undo tap and drain radiator into a bucket. Mine really needed changing by the looks of it. Yucky yellowy brown colour.
Remove the top hose, remove the lower hose. Undo 2 x 1/2" A/F transmission lines. Top one was bone dry, but the lower one leaked a little. Will have to check fluid levels ones refitted. I did bung the lower tube with a piece of glove and an ear plug.
Remove the top radiator cover which also doubles as a mount. Then haul the entire radiator out in one upwards. Very easy to pull out.
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/164674_10151340471478308_1229164488_n.jpg) Bay minus Rad... using this opportunity to clean and maybe paint some lower parts.
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/541837_10151340467873308_1893190199_n.jpg) Fan and top fan shroud / mount
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/735019_10151340471368308_478927859_n.jpg) Radiator on leak test. Filled it up to see if I could see the leak. It appears to be pissing out from inside the black plastic tank somewhere. Pretty gutting, as its just below the overflow tank level, meaning it'll only ever be 3/4 full. I possibly could've got away with it if it was higher.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 02, 2013, 01:41:05 am
Oh and for some reason if you eBay 'Chevrolet Camaro Radiators' theres a stockist for Nissens selling a match for mine.
Cross compared it with the model numbers on RockAuto and have a matching rad for £90 with free delivery. Just waiting back for them to confirm it is what it is, should have a new rad here by friday. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Incursus on January 02, 2013, 09:15:27 am
I assume you've tried additives such as radweld etc ?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on January 02, 2013, 09:26:57 am
I don't think rad weld would work on a plastic bit.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 02, 2013, 09:51:34 am
Quoting: Incursus
I assume you've tried additives such as radweld etc ?
Really not keen on stuff like rad weld. I would prefer to know i've got a fresh unit in there that might not fail sometime later.
Quoting: Roadkill
I don't think rad weld would work on a plastic bit.
this too.
Someone said if it was in the metal rib part I may have got away with flattening and soldering it.
Supplier has just rung me and sent me a pdf, they have to be imported from the Netherlands but are the same price, but also have to be right. Looking promising so far though! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 03, 2013, 01:44:02 pm
Radiator ordered. Now looking at receiving it next Friday / Monday. Hopefully the Friday as I'd like to get it up and running again.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 20, 2013, 01:39:30 pm
Wow, haven't updated this for a while.
Fitted the new radiator, and changed the coolant. Now working like a charm! Do have a feeling the engine temperature sensor isn't working, so the comp doesn't know when to turn the fan on. However, when driving the thing barely gets above 40 on the gauge, and if I need to I can just turn the non-working AC on to get the override to kick in.
Had its MOT today, which is passed, only two things noted. My third brake light bulb has gone and there is play in the front struts. The tester was a bit confused by it as all the bushes seem fine, there is just play though. Nothing to worry about he says and its nothing too serious.
So all signed off for another year. As he mentioned last time though, could do with me going over the under side with a wire brush to get some of the surface rust of and giving it a lick of paint.
Today I also just bought 2000 extras miles for the pricey sum of £35. This is for my getaway in summer hopefully down to Le Mans, although the main planning hasn't got further than that.
Apart from a little paint work on the boot that needs some attention, I'm very happy with her and eager for the summer to get here!
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/13923_10151458837928308_294592365_n.jpg) Just about to leave this morning in convoy to the MOT station.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Incursus on February 20, 2013, 03:12:23 pm
Quoting: Andy
engine temperature sensor isn't working, so the comp doesn't know when to turn the fan on. However, when driving the thing barely gets above 40 on the gauge
Probably not much good for your MPG either
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 20, 2013, 03:51:17 pm
You reckon? I shall have to dig the books out then and investigate! I know it runs cool anyway, at least the coolant temp is always cool.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on February 20, 2013, 05:39:33 pm
Very good buddy!
Nice property there too (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/thumbsup.gif)
Although, why are your Xmas lights still up? (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/stir.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 20, 2013, 05:46:10 pm
Quoting: Cunning Plan
Although, why are your Xmas lights still up?
Only put em up on Christmas Eve, i'm fooked if they're only staying up for 12th night! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Nah, its on my list of things to do... (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/can.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on April 17, 2013, 07:51:32 pm
For MOT reasons and Dave not being in the country at the moment, I've had to do a quick swap over with the wheels for the MOT tomorrow. Only the rears on Daves were illegal, probably due to scrubbing caused by the LSD.
However, I really like the look of the white wheels... (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on April 17, 2013, 08:59:44 pm
Quoting: Andy
probably due to scrubbing caused by the LSD
You get "scrubbing" with a spool rear end . . . . I don't think an LSD should be that bad . . . ?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on April 18, 2013, 07:15:16 am
The one fitted in the white one is bloody awful! Rips up the drive pretty bad just moving it. Will be interesting to see how our mot tester gets on with it today.
Title: Finally!
Post by: F Body on April 18, 2013, 11:36:08 am
Quoting: Andy
Rips up the drive pretty bad just moving it
May I suggest a few modifications to overcome this problem (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 18, 2014, 09:32:42 pm
Right, haven't updated this thread in ages, so best spend a bit of time catching up...
Last year saw me take part in a whole bunch of RWYBs cruises and events. In other words, the cars probably been driven more in the last 12 months than it has in the last 10 years!
So heres a quick bunch of photos and captions and stuff:
Really didn't like the look of the manky rusty air filter thing, so rubbed it down and sprayed it... VHT High temp stuff was probably a bad choice, but no one sees it anyway!
Decided to try an air filter... way too small and also lost me time at the track, binned!
It became my regular Friday treat to take it into work when the sun was out. Seeing as last year I discovered Darkness on the Edge of Town, this was mostly what was blasting out. A small paint shop opened up on the estate and after checking out some of his work on other classics, he quoted me about £150 for rubbing down and respraying my rear deck lid.
One of the many trips to the track, seeing me set my personal best of 16.66, not going to set the world on fire, but I'm happy with it!
Then the day before a big trip out with the V8UK guys down to Portsmouth, she develops a really good starting issue, intermittently wanting to start that is.
A good going over of the cables, checking both the cables and the crimped connectors, nothing too bad found, but gave all of them a good clean down and tighten back up, seems to have cured it.
Now I know Ryan recently had issues with electrickery not working in his car, but when it comes to driving down a country round and flicking between high beam to low beam and finding low beam no longer exists, that ain't fun.
Ended up getting my dad to drive in front while I only had side lights for the last couple of miles home. I then hit a bump about 1/2 a mile from home and boom, lights come back... sticking relay thought to blame. Will be sorting that out when I redo the front light wiring soon.
Then a little scouting around on the website I discover this thing called a twin snorkel set up... I want one! I find this Corvette Cowl hood setup on eBay going for peanuts (Less the Edlebrock thing that sucks balls)...
In the after shot, you can see I removed the AIR Pump diverter valve, and then blocked off the pipes going to the Exhaust manifold and the Cat. This is something I'm likely to change back, as although its not needed for the MOT, part of its purpose is to warm the Cat up quicker on cold starts, and without it means the thing is pumping out vapour for quite some time.
Me and my dad comparing motors... his is exactly the same engine, just has a lots of things going on underneath.
I decided to do something about the lack of exhaust noise mine put out. Rather than go the whole hog and buy a new system, I felt like experimenting myself and trying to do it on the cheap (while at the same time, coming up with an edxcuse to do a bit of tig welding.)
And looks something like this under the car, going from one side and straight out the other, except for a little kink to duck it down under the body kit.
Then recently me and the front grill have been having a love hate relationship. I hate it, and have never loved it, I also hate front number plates on these things. So for the last couple of months its not had one and so far I've done ok with just having it stuffed on the dash board.
After reading a thread on Third Gen about fitting Z28 / IROC grills, I decided to pull the trigger and get one from the States.
But before that, I also saw a link to someone selling the parking lights, and thought they looked pretty alright for what they were. They're not the same as the originals that have a louver in front of the bulb, and they also give the fried egg look, but if I'm going to get a new grill I might as well spruce other bits up!
And now the car as of today. Right now its living in our barn as its got some water issues. I mean it soaks up water better than a sponge. So right now I'm just looking through the RockAuto site trying to choose which company is the best to go for for replacement weather strips.
Also this Thursday its going back to the guy who sprayed the rear deck lid as he's spraying the front bumper for me. Where I removed the original RS grill it was obvious that the previous paint job had been down with it in place and it has just been masked around.
So the next year will see me sprucing her up a bit. I'm possibly going to put the original back box back on once I've removed the innards.
Title: Finally!
Post by: FUBAR on January 19, 2014, 12:52:21 am
Andy,
Not sure if you'd be interested (because to retro-fit front fogs could be a ball ache) But I have these which I may be persuaded to part with now you have the right grille installed for them:
The RH one is in excellent used condition and the LH one has some rust as you can see above, also the other end powder coating is loose as there is some rust underneath it as well. As far as I can tell the reflective surfaces are in good condition in both. They are the light housings only, mounting brackets wiring, plugs etc are not available as my IROC needed those (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif) Hawks sell them: http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/categories/82%252d92-F%252dBody/Camaro/Exterior/Lamps-%26-Components/
Let me know if you're interested.
Title: Finally!
Post by: F Body on January 19, 2014, 08:36:18 am
Quoting: Andy
I also saw a link to someone selling the parking lights, and thought they looked pretty alright for what they were.
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/cool.gif)
They look way way better than the originals (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
A lot of the 4th Gen's have the after market clear front indicator lens fitted which are available with LED's, they look great on a black or dark car, but IMHO on a red car the original orange one's blend in better (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 19, 2014, 04:52:22 pm
Ryan - Wow, was just looking for some of those the other day. What would you be looking for them?
I plan on rewiring the whole of the lights system at some point so that the light switch is instead powering a relay and a direct feed from the battery, instead of what is now happening where the power for the lights is going all the way from the battery, to the light switch and then back to the lights. So adding in some extra fog lights / side lights would be a fun addition to that project!
I was going to ask you if you had any experience with replacing T-top seals as I've just bought a load from Rock Auto. A complete weather strip kit, including the internal and external window wipers for the doors. I'm so fed up of the current leaky states.
Mart - Agree, the orange blends well! Dave's has the clear ones you mention, but then orange side repeaters which look a little out of place.
In you infinite knowledge, do you know anywhere to get a stripe kit like his has. Its a thick twin stripe with two thin ones either side... if that makes sense?!
Title: Finally!
Post by: F Body on January 19, 2014, 05:16:01 pm
Quoting: Andy
In you infinite knowledge, do you know anywhere to get a stripe kit like his has. Its a thick twin stripe with two thin ones either side... if that makes sense?!
Or like this:
No but somewhere I have a phone for a Guy who did all the stripes on the Atlantic Sports Cars, i,e Vipers, Mustangs etc (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/wink.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: F Body on January 19, 2014, 05:18:41 pm
Quoting: F Body
No but somewhere I have a phone for a Guy who did all the stripes on the Atlantic Sports Cars, i,e Vipers, Mustangs etc
Don't know if he is still working or if this number works (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
But his name is Jay and he was a true craftsman (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/cool.gif)
Number : 07941 311775
NB : Let me know how you go on (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/wink.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 19, 2014, 05:31:01 pm
I'll pass it onto Dave, it was more at his request really as his are starting to peel off and it lets the exterior down a bit, but cheers! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: FUBAR on January 19, 2014, 05:35:57 pm
Andy, for the stripe kits see below for an example:http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/categories/82%252d92-F%252dBody/Camaro/Exterior/Decals-%26-Stripes/
For the fog lights i'd be looking for £150 for the pair as is. (NOS ones are about that each!! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/shame.gif)) I'll also throw in some 3M weatherstrip rubber adhesive as well as I have some spare tubes.
Weatherstrips
The single biggest piece of advise I can give is to replace the T-Bar panel while you have all the seals off.
When you then use the 3M Rubber Weatherstrip adhesive to stick on the new seals in the "staple shaped" channels in the above pic put a bead of adhesive in each curled over end of the staple shape and a good zig-zag down the middle. This will ensure a good and full seal in the edges to stop water getting into this channel.
Title: Finally!
Post by: FUBAR on January 19, 2014, 05:38:43 pm
With new weatherstrips, new T-Bar panel, a good POR-15 treatment and good use of the rubber adhesive to keep out the water this will give decades of protection to the T-Top roof.
don't expect it to stop the front corner of the T-tops leaking though (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rolleyes.gif) That's a Designed-in feature that is virtually impossible to stop.. Cheers GM (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rtfm.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: FUBAR on January 19, 2014, 05:45:53 pm
I've just noticed that T-Bar panel that Hawks sell is Stainless!! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/shame.gif) (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/cool.gif)
so less POR-15'ing needed. My new one was an Original GM one so did need the extra protection.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 19, 2014, 06:36:51 pm
Quoting: FUBAR
don't expect it to stop the front corner of the T-tops leaking though
Just been watching this video:
If you skip to 21:00 he talks about the front corner where he continuously pours glue down into the front corners until it comes through. Did you do this on yours?
Title: Finally!
Post by: FUBAR on January 19, 2014, 07:56:55 pm
That is behind the seal, What I meant is it leaks through between the seal mounted on the t-top panel and the seal mounted to the body, it's just a straight join.
Not a bad idea though.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on January 20, 2014, 09:29:43 am
Quoting: Andy
Right, haven't updated this thread in ages
You're forgiven. Just don't do it again. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rtfm.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 20, 2014, 12:57:08 pm
But seeing as you've chimed in, now you can help! The exterior weather strip on the top of the door, you can do that without taking the window out right? (please say yes... please)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on January 20, 2014, 01:23:57 pm
Quoting: Andy
The exterior weather strip on the top of the door, you can do that without taking the window out right?
The sweeps ?
Hmm.
Theoretically I think you can . . . . although mine was very tight to get to some of the screws.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 20, 2014, 02:03:51 pm
1AAuto (who I still hate after lying about there only being one bolt holding the parking lights in) reckon you can do it by just loosening off the glass guides. Hmm!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on January 20, 2014, 02:07:46 pm
The window does sit proud . . . maybe loosening the guides would give you enough room . . . (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: FUBAR on January 20, 2014, 06:31:38 pm
Quoting: Andy
The exterior weather strip on the top of the door, you can do that without taking the window out right? (please say yes... please)
Yes just wind it all the way down. The top of the glass will just about cover one of the bolts, but you can undo the bolt with pliers with the window still properly in place.
I had to drill a hole in the plastic triangle at the front of the door to get to the last bolt when I did mine, the hole is covered by the interior trim when re-attached though.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 20, 2014, 08:21:42 pm
Quoting: FUBAR
I had to drill a hole in the plastic triangle at the front of the door to get to the last bolt when I did mine, the hole is covered by the interior trim when re-attached though.
I'm replacing one of mine, as thats what I believe has caused the initial leak, but think I'll take the other one out as well as I reckon I'll probably end up mullering it if i get the position wrong! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 24, 2014, 12:06:11 am
Wow! Having never used Rock Auto before, a 3 day turn around on part of my order has just amazed me! Especially as the email I received said that it was all to be shipped on the 3rd February! There is still one part in the system, so I guess that'll be the last bit to get here.
Have just ordered the Alston Bolt on SFCs after reading umpteen threads on how fitting these transform the feel of the car. So we'll see how they go in!
Title: Finally!
Post by: EDGE on January 24, 2014, 10:19:17 am
if you're happy with the fit of the bolt ons, weld them on... over time the bolt holes seem to elongate and then they wont help much.... just rattle :)
I've got custom frame connectors on the Saleen and over a stock car the difference is utterly amazing. A friend has a stock 98 and it bends and twists like a twinkie in the paws of a fat NY city cop.
Andy had custom subframe connectors on his 3rd gen and it stopped most of the dash rattles as the shell was now stiffer.
Title: Finally!
Post by: EDGE on January 24, 2014, 10:20:50 am
most... i mean it was still an 80's 3rd gen.....
i tried to explain what driving the fox body was like to someone who owns a 2007 Saleen....
I said it was exactly the same as his brand new Saleen, just imagine someone had gone though the entire car loosening EVERY nut/bolt/screw clip by 2 turns!!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on January 24, 2014, 10:50:16 am
I must admit - the SFC's on mine do a good job . . . but the welding on them is diabolical (not mine) !
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 24, 2014, 11:43:40 am
Who welded them in? Just so I can avoid them! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
These one have cups either end that make it a really snug fit at the end of each frame. Will look into welding them in though!
Next on the list, understand rear suspension and making it better for launches!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on January 24, 2014, 12:07:02 pm
Quoting: Andy
Who welded them in? Just so I can avoid them!
Dunno - the guy (and others ?) who had the car before me were clearly butchers . . . although she looked good on the outside the electrics were utterly chopped up and the SFC's pigeon-shit welded . . .
Unfortunately It's too much work to remove them . . . and they do work.
Thankfully all other traces of previous bodges have now been removed from my Z28.
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rolleyes.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 26, 2014, 09:10:39 pm
Well a pretty productive day, wasn't going to go an do any work today as it was so bloody miserable out but I got bored of doing nothing so just put on an extra jumper and went to the workshop.
Thursday my first bit of weather stripping turned up, and really this bit is just an appearance thing more than anything, but it all makes the difference!
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1601235_10152193784838308_1292404612_n.jpg) The old, very cracked and very mouldy weather strip.
(http://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1/1653906_10152193784998308_1264576792_n.jpg) The interesting switchgear which has two real screws holding it on, then two fake ones.
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1/1743497_10152193785763308_1630660659_n.jpg) New weather strip in place on drivers side.
(http://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1655939_10152193785918308_1546652888_n.jpg) Passenger door which has already had someone in there.
(http://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1/46005_10152193786313308_321740794_n.jpg) Passenger side done.
(http://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1/1689497_10152193786518308_1569933801_n.jpg) New vs. Old comparison
(http://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1/1560431_10152193786818308_679367410_n.jpg) Old quarter light that had been causing me a lot of issues with it not sealing.
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1/1017138_10152193787273308_1306065122_n.jpg) Something weird was going on, which then ruined the door seal on the car.
(http://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1/1604530_10152193787418308_1792974272_n.jpg) 'New old' quarter light that I got off a guy from Oxford when I went to look at his Iroc. Has a bit of red paint on it that I need to get off, but the seal against the door is so so much better!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on January 26, 2014, 10:10:15 pm
Quoting: Andy
The interesting switchgear which has two real screws holding it on, then two fake ones.
(As will most or all of your dashboard) (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/wink.gif)
Those Triangle bits - as I'm sure you noticed - are adjustable . . . they can make the difference between the door closing too easily (not forming a seal) and not wanting to close at all.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 26, 2014, 10:29:08 pm
Quoting: Roadkill
Those Triangle bits - as I'm sure you noticed - are adjustable . . . they can make the difference between the door closing too easily (not forming a seal) and not wanting to close at all.
Yeah, I noticed that once I reinstalled the one I replaced. The drivers side I didn't remove the bracket that has the two studs on it, so it went back into the same place.
Next bit will be the T-top seals, which if I'm honest, I'm bricking a bit. Anything metal like I know can be fixed, but rubber bits and plastics break. Will see how I get on, the painting of the nose cone got pushed back to this week.
Title: Finally!
Post by: art b on January 27, 2014, 11:57:28 am
good jobs done...(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 27, 2014, 12:44:33 pm
Quoting: art b
nice workshop too...
My dad has pretty much kicked me off the drive at home as he's fed up of opening the garage door and finding his Epco jack in the way. So I've moved all my tools and stuff out into this unit. Very nice, not too cold and loads of room to work around.
Also has a CNC mill in it, just no power to it as yet! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 29, 2014, 02:39:59 pm
I really want an LSD for this thing and I'm just trying to now work out the best way of doing it.
Emailed Webster and they came back with a list of prices for an auburn unit but said that it wasn't really the sort of work they're concentrating on.
Today I've just rung Hauser and asked for some details and recommendations. Geoff has recommended a Tru Trac unit, which features helical gears and is very smooth. It's not so much a limited slip diff more a torque sensing one that locks up when there is an imbalance in the driven axles.
His rough quot was £400 for the series 3 carrier, £185 for the 3.42 gears, £95 for the seal kit and £260 labour to fit and set up. That's with the axle out of the car. All of those are then plus Vat. So around £1100 ish in all.
Another option is wait for a Trans Am or that to be broke with a decent ratio and LSD. Not too keen on this as I've heard the third gen diffs wear out and by now are more than likely shagged.
4th option is go 4th gen rear end with the later type LSD units. This then poses the issue of wheels as the axle is wider and the wheels on a 4th gen have a different offset.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on January 29, 2014, 03:05:11 pm
Quoting: Andy
4th option is go 4th gen rear end with the later type LSD units. This then poses the issue of wheels as the axle is wider and the wheels on a 4th gen have a different offset.
Urrgh, no - that'll look shite !
I was lucky . . . I think I picked up my Auburn Gear unit for £250 (or summin' like that) N.O.S on eBay. I already had 3.73's and Webster charged me £275 (IIRC) cash - again that was out of the car.
Keep your eyes open . . . you could probably find a 3.42-73 axle for £100 on eBay or RnS . . . That'll save you a bit of £££ and also save you tearing into your car and having it on stands for a couple of weeks.
EDIT - I reckon you could find the other parts cheaper yourself, too, if you looked . . . (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 29, 2014, 06:03:53 pm
Yeah, I know I can get that Carrier cheaper from Jegs. I'm keeping my eye out for any Trans Ams or that getting broke, they're more likely to have higher ratio rear ends.
That's amazing that yours came with 3.73, that's pretty high!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on January 29, 2014, 10:24:32 pm
Yeah, mine was originally a "H.O" option hence got the good gears.
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: FUBAR on January 29, 2014, 10:31:39 pm
Yeah they forgot that philosophy when building my IROC and giving then 2.77 gears unless you picked 1LE performance package even then you just got 3.27s
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 30, 2014, 09:14:23 am
An '88 Trans Am has just come up for sale in North Cornwall, no engine but chassis and rear end, which is rumoured to be an LSD.
Gonna ring the guy and ask for the RPO codes and see what it has. Might be worth a punt for £650...
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on January 30, 2014, 10:39:34 am
That's a lot of cash for an unknown axle ! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/shame.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 30, 2014, 12:36:41 pm
True, but it has everything from the gearbox back, which is a manual too... i'm just wondering if after I've taken all the bits off I want (diff, gearbox, mirrors) I can still break it and get my money back...
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on January 30, 2014, 01:02:52 pm
Ah, fair enough . . . "proper" mirrors would be good . . . (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/wink.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 30, 2014, 01:23:53 pm
Well not got off to great start, phone goes straight to voice mail. But left one asking if he can get me a copy of the RPO codes from the door. Would give me some chance of working out what it is.
Yeah, I'm jealous of the Aero mirrors!
Failing that it'll be back to plan A and buying the parts myself and having a bash.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 03, 2014, 01:35:54 pm
Jegs parts arrived... yay! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
No customs charge either, although I was only expecting to pay VAT as it fell under the duty rate.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 03, 2014, 10:51:05 pm
Quoting: Andy
An '88 Trans Am has just come up for sale in North Cornwall, no engine but chassis and rear end, which is rumoured to be an LSD.
Waiting for the guy to get me the RPO code for this, its confirmed an LSD by the previous owner, but other than that and what gearing is unknown. He's offered it to me for £450, but I have to take the whole car. My only issue is I have no where to store a whole car...
'But you have that huge workshop?!'
Yeah, but my dad doesn't want me filling it up with junk. So right now I'm working on him to let me get this and keep it for about a month. Strip anything of any value to me off of it, then junk it. I really can't be asked with breaking it myself, and at £450, half what I've been quote from Hauser, it could be a cheap bolt in LSD.
Still crazy?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on February 04, 2014, 02:58:39 pm
Quoting: Andy
Still crazy?
No, I've done more for less . . . . (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 11, 2014, 01:27:43 pm
Well a further update, the guy sold the car to a mate... I also wouldn't have been able to store the car anywhere sensible due to a current issue with the place I'm working at the moment. So anyway, the hunt continues!
Seen a 9 bolt Borg Warner diff up on eBay, are these all LSD like Ryans? Are they a particularly stronger, one would think losing a bolt would make it weaker... Do they have the same carrier issue where you need a 3 series carrier to get any decent ratios?
Car went in for paint just over a week ago, not too fussed when I get it back, as long as the guy is keeping it under cover at least.
But another box arrived for me at work! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
A big box of seals to fit, which should be fun! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rolleyes.gif)
Also got a VAT bill through the post from FedEx, at leas they give you the pleasure of looking at your shiny bits before then hitting you with the bill! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on February 11, 2014, 02:52:24 pm
Quoting: Andy
at leas they give you the pleasure of looking at your shiny bits before then hitting you with the bill!
Good cop, bad cop . . . I like it. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 15, 2014, 08:57:54 pm
OK, need some help. My weather strip kit turned up, but it was missing something I thought was in it. Now looking back it wasn't in it and I don't know what the part is called...
The aftermarket ones I would recommend of these are Hard Plastic rather than the rubber ones that came as stock, you can get the rubber ones but plastic is good.
You can get these from places other than Hawks to avoid using them, i.e. Brocks which is where I think I got mine from
Title: Finally!
Post by: FUBAR on February 16, 2014, 03:24:32 am
FYI thinking about it I too had to order these extra after realising the same thing you just have. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/down.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 16, 2014, 06:35:47 am
Ah Fubes! You legend! Thank you, I shall have a scout around with that name and see if Rockauto can produce anything.
See in my weatherstrip kit it said outer edge rubber seal and I thought it was all one piece, but turns out I was wrong (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/sad.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: F Body on February 16, 2014, 09:46:44 am
Quoting: Andy
Ah Fubes! You legend! Thank you
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/worship.gif)
MKB (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rocker.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Big Mouse on February 16, 2014, 05:11:07 pm
You'll find your average chevy LSD's are all made of glass and paper mache once you start getting your launch technique i.e. times, improving.
Before cutting the 4th gen up and pro streeting it, I was still running the original series 2 carrier. I tried a set of Richmond 'small' gears to get down to 3.42 but they were so whiney that I changed back to the original 2.73 and still ran into the 11's with it - but the diff was completley buggered by time I sold the axle to Binky for his project. That was over half a season
I originally used Lakewood traction bars on the 4th gen, they made a big difference to the launch especially when the SFC were fitted, went from 2.1 to 1.7! - but that what helped to wreck the diff
I'd look for a second hand Moser or Strange unit if you can find one - might be worth asking on Eurodragster, you'd be amazed at what people have tucked away in their garages and lock ups
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 16, 2014, 10:31:47 pm
Quoting: Big Mouse
I'd look for a second hand Moser or Strange unit if you can find one - might be worth asking on Eurodragster, you'd be amazed at what people have tucked away in their garages and lock ups
Are you meaning like a Strange or Moser version of a 9" Ford rear end?
I've been talking to the Heaven and Hell Team quite a bit, Carla has been very helpful with advice. She's still running a 10 bolt, albeit with welded up tubes and a spool.
I know its a slippery slope but at the moment, its not so much for speed, but more for making sure it hooks up consistently, which is as much to do with the tyres I guess, but I'd like the reassurance of an LSD.
What I have read is that the Auburn units burn up their friction material pretty quickly and don't offer as much value for money as the gears LSD like the Eaton TruTrac.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 19, 2014, 12:56:10 pm
After two weeks, a few phone calls, and a lot of dodging the rain, my car finally got painted and back to me!
I was very anal in wanting it kept inside, as I'm still not 100% on the weatherstrips and don't want to have to go to all the efforts of drying it out again. Fortunately this spray company has a spare unit that they left it in till they could do the whole thing in one shot.
Now you may not initially notice much difference, but the lacquer peel from the top left side has now gone, the lower grill area where the previous grill had just been sprayed around is now gone and overall its just shiny and new. There is a slight colour mismatch, but thats expected, only noticable on the sides where the fender meets the bumper.
Overall, very happy chappy! Now onto fitting parts!! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: F Body on February 19, 2014, 01:25:54 pm
Looks good (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/cool.gif)
Did you get that bit done on the off side rear quarter (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
Edit : Are the SFC's fitted now (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/dontknow.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 19, 2014, 01:47:14 pm
No, not got that done although he treated it last time (read rubbed it down, primered it and coloured it) but that section will need a complete run down and touching in to blend the colours. To be honest I'm a little apprehensive about that as it's not obvious, but a massive colour change would be. That said... One day!
SFCs turned up the day after I gave him the keys for it. So as yet the two haven't met, I really hope they get on!
Hoping to get her back into the workshop tonight, in the dry. Then I can look at doing all the seals, which I'm really scared about!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on March 09, 2014, 06:06:43 pm
Lil update...
SFC's offered up, marked up, fit like a glove, happy days. As yet not fitted as I want to get them welded in really and my mate who does the welding is a tad busy with work and his twin turbo mustang.
Drip Edge rail fitted to drivers side. Haven't done the passenger side because it was already a hard plastic one, but now the new one is really black and the old one is greyish, I shall replace it, along with rubbing down the t-top frame and repainting. As yet, no other weatherstrips fitted.
Now a little last minute eBaying saw me pick up 4 third gen wheels... when I bought them I though, they'll be ideal for sticking slicks on or something stickier as opposed to the BFG's I'm running at the moment, but when I picked them up I realised actually as they are they'll probably be pretty sweet. 3-4mm of tread left on all 4. Centre caps need some work and I'm not sure on the white, but for £125 with tyres, you can hardly say no!
245 width as opposed to the 215s I'm running, not as tall either. But hopefully should be better for some grip!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on March 10, 2014, 03:56:27 pm
245's ?
What width rim are they ?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on March 11, 2014, 08:46:30 am
They're standard Camaro wheels, just the tyre sizes are wrong. Definitely too low of a profile and also too wide at the front. They handle like shit in other words. Also has a slight case of the ARCH GAP!
Only keeping them on for the day I think then I'll pull them off and see what comes up tyre wise. Although I'll probably stick the rears on to see if they help my launch at all.
They do look rather cool though I think. Break up the colour codedness...
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on March 11, 2014, 11:36:44 am
Quoting: Andy
They do look rather cool though I think. Break up the colour codedness...
Agreed.
I'm still a little baffled by the tyre width. I put 235's on my standard Z28 rims (7") and they were noticeably "bulbous" . . . They were higher profile but that wouldn't have changed their relationship with the rims.
The same 235's are on my 8" rims, now and look "right" (to me).
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/dontknow.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Jamieg285 on March 11, 2014, 12:21:23 pm
The tyres look OK to me, but at the top end of the acceptable width range. The 215s would be 'tighter' and have less flex. I've never had anything narrower than 235 on my 7" 3rd gen wheels.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on March 11, 2014, 01:43:11 pm
These are IROC-Z rims I believe and they're 8" across. Stock size is apparently 245/50 on the front and 255/50 on the rear.
I know the offset is different on the front to the rears.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on March 11, 2014, 01:50:37 pm
Quoting: Andy
These are IROC-Z rims I believe and they're 8" across
That makes more sense.
EDIT - Must have quite a bit of back spacing . . . (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
They'd be ideal for me as the back-spacing on my Outlaw's only allow me to get 235/245 on mine . . . . Those I could probably go for more like 275 on the rear.
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
<goes to search for IROC rims on eBay>
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on March 11, 2014, 02:24:21 pm
Fronts are offset quite a bit from the rears to avoid a nasty comin together of the rim and steering arm!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on March 11, 2014, 02:45:04 pm
What diameter are they ? 16" ??
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on March 11, 2014, 03:20:27 pm
Yep, having just googled them, they're actually 1991 Z28 wheels. They stopped producing the IROC-Z the year before.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on July 19, 2014, 04:46:25 am
Ok, so seeing as I've been rubbish lately, lets update this to what I've done / bought for the car...
As the last couple of posts show, I got a bargain set of wheels from up't North. I knew I should treat them as just wheels even though they came with tyres attached. They were beyond sketchy to drive on and make the wayward BFs seem to handle like a modern car.
I ended up getting a deal from Black Circles on some Kuhmo Ecsta something or others. Cornered the car for just shy of £60 a corner, but the difference is night and day. Handles so much better with the stiffer more squarer tyre. What it does show up is the slack in the steering set up, but as yet thats not a huge concern as its perfectly manageable. With the boat like characteristics of the BFs it only exacerbated the problem. These tyres have far more traction than the BFs with great rain handling qualities too.
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/10320400_10152448792918308_186436843256338294_n.jpg) (Packed for the Power Tour, toolbox fits PERFECTLY)
I also took the car on the UK Power Tour at the end of May. It was probably my proudest moment with the car. It was my transport, my home and my 'racecar' all in one, sleeping on the passenger seat in a sleeping bag at night, driving it on the 700 mile round tour and racing it at all three strips.
(http://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10348225_728611773865996_3925783760361451476_n.jpg) (At Rye Mini Drag Strip)
(http://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10170847_10152060288385178_1334944381601297261_n.jpg) (On the line at Shakey, about to put a run in with the handbrake on... (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/sad.gif) )
The car never missed a beat, only throwing up a 'Service Engine Soon' light randomly for about 5 minutes on the run between Shakey and York, but nothing untoward happened.
Ultimately though, I didn't win anything, the fastest car on the tour with an average of 11.11 sec et was a sweet Ford Anglia Pop that runs in Outlaw Anglia.
I've also been massively been bitten by the drag racing bug, RWYB in particular as I can't be doing with the entry fees to events at the moment. For the last year and a bit I've been doing the RWYB Challenge held on some RWYB dates at the Pod. I have no chance of winning, but the crowd that take part are awesome and it gives you something to run for. The challenge works on a points table, turning up and putting a run in scores you three points. From there you get an extra point for every person you are faster than. Added to that there are bonus points for fastest reaction time of the day.
For this I've been experimenting with various air intakes and the like, finding that the stock setup is actually pretty good for delivering cold air that is needed. Anything like open air element setups just seem to be bogging the car down on the 2nd to 3rd gear change at WOT.
Anyway, I've been chasing my PB at the pod and Shakey since the beginning of the year. I started with a 16.8X figure being fairly consistent for me manually shifting the autobox. With a fair few driver improvements and getting a better under standing of the car and how shifting it effects shift points etc, I've managed to gradually work that down to a current PB at the Pod of 16.33 which I'm pretty proud of.
I also ended up doing a best of three grudge match against my old man in his 1992 Camaro. He was pretty adamant that his was faster than mine, it being fitted with an LSD, CAI, uprated suspension mods etc, so the game was set... I wasn't about to let some manky third gen beat me... wait. Oh and there was £500 on the line*
(http://scontent-b-fra.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10378091_10152519754643308_5398603884321676063_n.jpg) (A crash course diet the night before...)
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/t1.0-9/p417x417/10488069_769427393101393_8723114352425339391_n.jpg) (This was the outcome in all three races, 2 won on holeshots.)
Current plans:
Rear end, I picked up an Auburn 3 series carrier off ebay out of a written off 4th Gen Camaro for a pretty cheap price. Doing a quick bench test its pretty solid and take a helluva force to get it to slip, which makes it seem like it was genuinely listed, as it apparently came out of a low miler car. I bought a Richmond service kit for a 10 bolt and a rear cover strengthening plate to help give the axle casing more strength. As yet, I'm waiting for a good time to get some garage space where I can take off the rear axle and get it taken to Southern axles where the guy there will hopefully set it all up for me. I possibly could do it myself, but its a right headache setting the pre-load and you only get one shot with the crush sleeve, so I'd rather have it set up right, first time. Also this is a gear upgrade, the series 2 carrier I'm running has 3.08 and this is loaded with 3.23 gears. Not a massive leap, but good enough for now.
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/t1.0-9/10151368_10152343202968308_1729178794_n.jpg) (Series 3 carrier with 3.23 gears)
Exhaust, Got fed up of it being quiet so I removed the back box and replaced it with a single cherry bomb and a bit of tig welded stainless I knocked up. Then got fed up with the cat, so removed it and punched the guts out of it. Now it sounds awesome and knocked somewhere approaching a .1 off my times.
I've also just picked up a set of Hedman Hedders and connecting Y-Pipe. These won't be getting fitted until I do an engine swap from the 305 to a 350.
Title: Finally!
Post by: FUBAR on July 19, 2014, 12:49:57 pm
Nice update Andy, Good to see you went with the Kumho tyres, Steve has those on his 4th gen and swears by them. I will be buying a set later in the year for the IROC as well.
Edit: Black Circles has these listed at £97 a corner at the moment, how on earth did you get them for £60?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on July 20, 2014, 06:24:39 am
If I remember correctly they had an offer on and I rang them up and did my 'come on, you're busting my balls' bit and they knocked a wedge off.
I know the total bill for re shoeing was around £300 something as I was getting the garage over the way to put them on, and when I first asked him how much it would be, he said £15... I just didn't hear the bit where he said per tyre.
My only issue with them is wear on the back ones. As the tyres are directional and the rear wheels have to stay on the rear axle for clearance issues, I can't rotate them without taking tyres off and swapping them from wheel to wheel.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on July 20, 2014, 06:26:12 am
Oh and regards the tyres. By far the best purchase I've made for the car re handling. It's still very wishy-washy, but the tyres are gripping and aren't rolling over on their sidewall like that BFs do.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on July 20, 2014, 04:56:24 pm
Quoting: Andy
Ok, so seeing as I've been rubbish lately, lets update this to what I've done / bought for the car...
More of this! Great update (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tea.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on July 21, 2014, 09:13:02 am
Good update, indeed . . . keep it coming.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on July 21, 2014, 12:07:24 pm
I did leave a little bit off this update which I will add now and seek opinions on what to do.
At the July South Bucks meet, a chap rocked up in a van asking who owned the 91 RS and would they be interested in a Firebird he has for sale.
Anyway, next day I get a lift with my mate to go check it out, and sure enough this chap has a 1986 Pontiac Firebird sat in a garage doing nothing. Body work is fair, but suffering from door and wheel arch rot. Interior is pretty mint and is wearing a GTA set of seats, carpets and mats.
Now it has no MOT or Tax, but, it is 60k mile car, of which 40 something were driven with the original 305 engine. This however was sporting a 350, having a Corvette bottom end, roller followers but Goodwrench heads with standard rocker gear.
This guy already has two other yanks and was just looking to get rid of it as it was in his way and he doesn't drive the others enough as it is. So, he was giving it away for a pretty decent price and I said yep I'll have it.
Now originally my plan was hook the engine and trans out, see what I could do to service it with it out of the car and then do a swap. But now I'm thinking, if its not too much work, maybe whack an MOT on it if I can and flog it. It would be a superb first yank for someone or a good little project for someone else.
So as it stands I'm gonna go collect it sometime this week and see what work is required, but here is the question, what would you do?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on July 21, 2014, 12:28:47 pm
Quoting: Andy
roller followers
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/dontknow.gif)
You mean roller lifters ?
Quoting: Andy
This however was sporting a 350, having a Corvette bottom end
Did he have proof of this ? - the bottom ends aren't that different from what I understand . . maybe 2/4 bolt being the main (only) difference ?
Quoting: Andy
But now I'm thinking, if its not too much work, maybe whack an MOT on it if I can and flog it
That all depends on how much you have in it already . . . . (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/wink.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on July 21, 2014, 12:44:44 pm
Quoting: Andy
what would you do?
Quoting: Roadkill
That all depends on how much you have in it already . . . .
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/plusone.gif)
IF you can make money on it and reasonable money to cover your time, then I think it maybe a good investment. Also, why break it if it is a good car, it would be one less Firebird on the UK road (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/sad.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on July 21, 2014, 01:44:13 pm
He sold it to me for £500, the engine runs, sounds strong. Gearbox could probably do with some fresh ATF as it's been say there but it moves under it's own power etc.
The only thing he knows of that needs doing is a hose going to the back brakes. This brings up the Brakes light on the dash showing an unbalanced proportion at the master cylinder manifold.
That is also my predicament. I love these cars, and carving it up just for the engine and box would be a real shame. It's fully optioned as well. Only thing it lacks is a decent rear axle.
The opposite flip of the coin, is any money made from this needs to go towards an engine. So could it be flipped for enough to buy a decent 350?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on July 21, 2014, 02:09:52 pm
Add to the list of the list of things it needs are a battery and a tyre.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on July 21, 2014, 02:41:50 pm
And bonnet rams ? (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on July 21, 2014, 03:09:40 pm
That's a standard Pontiac Prop there, limited edition model stuff (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/wink.gif)
What do you think?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on July 21, 2014, 03:51:19 pm
Third gen prices are roller-coaster stuff . . . You can pick up a good'un for hundreds, or be left with a lemon for thousands !
I'd assume you'll only ever get the low-end of the market and go from there.
I wouldn't invest more than £800 myself (including the purchase price) . . .
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on July 21, 2014, 09:52:59 pm
Another Update: (Like buses these are)
I said I wasn't going to spend too much on this engine as the big plan is hooking it out and fitting a 350. So the most I'm going to is deleting the AC, this is two fold, for weight and for tidying up the bay a bit. Tonight was part one of getting rid of all the parts...
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10271577_10152589782553308_3419415758589063626_n.jpg) Assess the scale of the job, luckily my adjustable was big enough for the AC pipe nuts.
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10300776_10152589782663308_7147300183067808705_n.jpg) Disconnecting the condensor pipes, removing the battery for better access to scrape my knuckles on even more rusty metal work.
(http://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10492490_10152589782808308_5758642978847509856_n.jpg) Condensor to compressor and evaporator to compressor pipe removed.
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10550980_10152589783068308_1699353488210273188_n.jpg) Breaker bar to remove support bar to the back of the compressor mount. This was bolted just under the exhaust manifold to the block.
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10348182_10152589783328308_5176285865686514086_n.jpg?oh=90be41139d5e1d87b46b7402560b9012&oe=545217A2&__gda__=1413930575_d67178a4bd88af30a6199998bb28832a) Three long bolts undone on the back of the compressor, out she pops leaving behind the compressor mount casting.
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/10568778_10152589783508308_2452909752742233602_n.jpg) Bit of WD-40 and a scraper to tidy it up a bit.
(http://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10487451_10152589783668308_4674106223482005581_n.jpg) New idler pulley fits like a glove. (Slightly blurry due to shock of it fitting so well)
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10570357_10152589783893308_7545502400383032727_n.jpg) Belt refitted
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10343001_10152589784018308_931943109760066008_n.jpg) Bits that I wasn't sure if I should refit, so I didn't. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t1.0-9/10547529_10152589784173308_5553025433663867617_n.jpg) Thought I'd clean the strut towers now more of them are visible on the side... but whats this?!
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t1.0-9/10527338_10152589784278308_6402604336862578678_n.jpg) Ok, this seems weird, something rubbery that is loose... well, best give it a tug...
(http://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10556300_10152589784408308_646598054305137210_n.jpg) WHAT THE ****?!
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/10518640_10152589784628308_629741994956201373_n.jpg) Now the fun game begins. Its a glove, half painted. Was it put in there from new or after something 'happened'.
(http://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t1.0-9/10384291_10152589784763308_7806507315820662192_n.jpg) Battery and cables all put back in, and cleaned up the bay a bit more.
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10425012_10152589784933308_8526433497947094419_n.jpg) All the bits removed!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on July 22, 2014, 04:45:01 pm
There's still loads to come out !!! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rofls.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on July 23, 2014, 08:32:43 am
EGR delete, yay or nay?
I'm verging with Nay as it's a stock engine and doesn't have any performance gains at WOT but may induce pinging without it under load.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 06, 2014, 07:55:06 am
So the next thing for upgrading are the brakes.
This came about after the July RWYB and I noticed while pushing the car I had a sticking pad caliper. I removed it and liberally gave it some movement and since has been working well but I decided after quite a number of trips through MK to the Pod that braking isn't the cars strongest point. So ideally I wanted to upgrade and renew the whole front braking setup.
I was recommended the Powerstop Brake kit available on RockAuto, the kit comes with rotors, calipers and pads. The rotors on these are actually the hubs as well which means the only thing you need to source are the bearings to fit, unless you use your old ones. Considering that I'm pretty sure all of the setup is actually original from new I decided it would be best to replace them at the same time.
The Powerstop brake kit includes cross drilled and grooved rotors, which apparently help with the braking and having read a few reviews they seem like a fairly decent brake upgrade. I'm not yet in the realms of requiring 4 pot calipers etc! The calipers are re manufactured with fresh seals and powder coated red, little bit of front wheel bling. The pads are Powerstops own ceramic type pad which are designed to work with the pad and also are meant to be dust free... Yeah sure!
With that all ordered and turning up I thought it would be relativity easy to get the wheel bearings over here, so I held back from ordering them all at the same time. After ringing a few bearings companies and quoting what I had been told to get, either a Timken Set6 & Set34 or an SKF Br6 & Br34 it soon became apparent no one knew what I was after and these bearing numbers do no translate.
Once I had those numbers and went back to the bearing supplier I found out each bearing was going to be roughly £12+vat and the inner wheel hub seal (Timken #8871 / SKF #19984) was going to be another £16.50+vat I decided to try RockAuto again and bunged them all in a basket plus some hub nut dust caps for just under £40 delivered. Only downside is it blew out the weekend I had planned to do it. That's said, ordered Friday lunch time, on the door step Monday morning, so can't really complain!
(http://fbcdn-photos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-0/10547502_10152623433008308_5827516625370864745_n.jpg) Hub dust caps... Turns out 2 means two boxes of 5!
With all that, plus DOT 5.1 brake fluid, a tub of lithium grease, a set of AC Delco hoses and some copper slip I'm hoping to get all this fitted and on the car this Saturday. I've been given access to that workshop again so I'm hoping to get the thing up on all four corners and completely flush the brake fluid through as I'm pretty sure that's never been changed either!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on August 06, 2014, 09:19:02 am
I do like shiny new hardware! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Quoting: Andy
Hub dust caps... Turns out 2 means two boxes of 5!
Clear description on the sales website then (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rolleyes.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 06, 2014, 09:33:26 am
To be fair when they're $1.95 a throw (box of 5) it's just something to have spare I guess, either that or I whack them up on eBay once I've mullered on or two on!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Jamieg285 on August 06, 2014, 11:41:06 am
Looking good.
What's the dimensions of those caps? If they fit my 2nd gen hubs I would be interested in some.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 06, 2014, 12:22:30 pm
Hi Jamie,
This is the part here, if its the same which I think it will be you're welcome to a couple.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on August 06, 2014, 02:05:06 pm
Quoting: Andy
I thought it would be relativity easy to get the wheel bearings over here
Well, that was your first mistake. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rolleyes.gif)
Never attempt to buy over here what you can easily buy in the states - ESPECIALLY when you have stuff coming over, anyway. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/nono.gif)
Those brakes sound like the ones I have on mine but I don't think mine were drilled.
I'll take 2 of those caps as spares if you're planning on selling (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/hunter.gif) . . . and that's 2, not 2 boxes. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Jamieg285 on August 07, 2014, 01:13:09 pm
Quoting: Andy
This is the part here, if its the same which I think it will be you're welcome to a couple.
Yes, they will fit - Camaro 70-92.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 07, 2014, 01:36:58 pm
You two wanna PM your addresses and I'll fire them over to you?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Jamieg285 on August 12, 2014, 11:31:48 am
Only just seen this, PM sent.
Thanks (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 13, 2014, 06:19:52 am
How to change the Rotors and Callipers on a Third Gen F-Body
This weekends project was to swap over the front rotors, pads and callipers to the new Powerstop brake set up. Although the callipers weren't any bigger than the stock, hopefully the disc may offer a bit more cooling and grab over stock. Also in the change was a complete flush of the brake fluid and upgrade to DOT 5.1.
First step is to jack up and secure the front of the car. Best location for jack is on the rear of the chassis legs from the front subframe. Jack it at the very front and slide a jack stand under the rear section. Do this on both sides and remove the wheels.
Now take a 3/8 allen key and remove the two calliper pins. This may take some force and possibly the blow of a hammer to shock them out. The use of a smaller allen key may also be needed to tap the pin out once it runs out of thread from unwinding it.
Next up is to remove the calliper and set to one side. At this point I PB blasted the flare nut where the flex hose joins the hard brake line. This was because I planned on changing both flex hoses. It also gives it good time to soak in while doing other work. When setting aside the callipers if not replacing the hoses, ensure they are never left hanging only by the flex hose. A great place to tuck them is on the top side of the A-Arm behind the knuckle, or like here, on a spare jack stand.
Now work on the rotor, the first thing to do is to remove the hub cap. This is best started by using a non-standard tool for working on cars, a chisel. Once a gap larger enough to suit a good levering screwdriver has been established, work your way around levering off the hub cap.
Next is to remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut. Use a pair of side cutters to lever the semi straightened pin out, replace with new when refitting.
Its not unusual for the spindle nut to see very loose, on this type of set up the nut should barely be applying any force to the bearings and should really only be there to keep them in place. Unscrew the spindle nut and remove the keyed spacer.
With the spacer removed, now pull out the outer bearing. The whole rotor may now slide forwards, just be careful for damaging the threads on the end of the spindle if it does.
With the spacer and bearing removed, replace the nut back on the end of the spindle and screw on until flush with the end of the spindle. Now pull the rotor forward while carefully dragging it along the spindle, when it stops coming forward, stop and give it a couple of sharp tugs forward and be prepared to catch the rotor. This has now removed the rear hub seal and the inner bearing race.
With all of this removed, its time to start the process of cleaning down and reassembling for the reinstall. First thing is to clean the spindle and area down of old grease, this includes the large diameter at the very base where the inner hub seal locates.
Now with a fresh pot of grease, smear a light coating of grease of the spindle, including the large diameter at the base. Now if you are replacing the bearings, the fun job of packing the new bearings of grease begins. Take a clump of grease in the palm of your left hand, and with the bearing in the other, drag the bearing large tapered side first, through the clump of grease. You need to to this again and again until grease starts pouring through the other end of the race, and you need to do this all the way round.
Once both bearings have been packed it is time to prep the rotor for reinstall. Firstly grease the preinstalled bearing surface on the rotor. It is also a good idea to put some grease on the inside of the hub as well. With that done, flip the rotor onto its studs and dunk the inner bearing and seat it squarely on the tapered bearing surface. Now add some more grease to the back it while also smearing some on the very outer seal lip. Grab the new seal and place a light coating in the 'Y' groove and place this on the rotor roughly level, take a hammer and carefully tap the seal home going round the seal until you hear a definite change in sound.
With the inner bearing now held in, move your rotor to the spindle and slide on being careful not to damage the inner seal on the threads or the lip at the back. Give a firm push on to home the seal on its diameter.
While holding the rotor on with one hand, install the outer bearing onto the spindle, then reinstall the now clean spacer, noting the tang that lines up with the groove in the spindle. Next up is the hub nut, finger tighten this until you start to feel a resistance from the bearings. A tip I was given was use a spanner to nip it up, rotate and then loosen the nut off, do this a couple of times on the last time using your fingers to turn it till it just starts to bite and then loosen till the slot of the castellated nut next lines up with one of the pin holes. At this point I was checking the rotor for end play by giving it a tug back and forth. I finger tightened it till the audible click-clack disappeared.
Once that was sorted and the cotter pin was put in, trimmed and folded back, time to put the bearing dust cap on which was quite a nice rewarding thumping session to seat it.
Put the brake pads in the calliper and grease up with copper slip on the places where it touches the calliper. Also note that on these style callipers the pins that hold it in also touch the pads, so a little dab of copper slip there also helps.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 14, 2014, 08:06:02 am
I know gloves and all that, but honestly my hands are f**ked at the moment. Going through the waiting game on the NHS to see a dermatologist as it's getting unbearable to use them at work or doing stuff on cars.
Oh, and brake fluid, in a cut... Jesus Christ. Almost as bad as toothpaste in the eye!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on August 14, 2014, 09:44:39 am
I had issues when I was on the mills with the coolant . . . so I know what you mean . . . you're still a pansy, though. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rofls.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on August 14, 2014, 12:03:19 pm
For doing anything (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/gay.gif)
I touch myself a lot, so I like my hands to be smooth..........
Title: Finally!
Post by: Jamieg285 on August 14, 2014, 12:15:55 pm
Quoting: Andy
I know gloves and all that,
Do you use those blue ones a lot? What material are they?
I too suffer from bad hands and use gloves (when I remember). I avoided latex as they have a bad rap and went with nitrile, based on other peoples recommendations.
It took me a long time to realise, but these weren't doing me any favours either. I'm now trying vitrile, which have been recommended if you have problems with nitrile, but not used them enough to know if they are better or not.
Oh, and good work on the brakes (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 14, 2014, 02:42:37 pm
Yeah, those are nitrile, simply because they're apparently harder wearing than Latex ones.
I'll keep an eye out for vitrile ones, although my crate of ten boxes of these gloves arrived yesterday... (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/confused.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 20, 2014, 11:37:52 am
Sorry about the poor photo quality, but the lights kept tripping last night in the barn!
Picked this up last night, something for the parts pile to eventually fit. fibre glass 3" cowl hood. Will really need to think about how I'm going to fit this, as at the moment it seems like it going to be hood pins all round which will make it a bit of a ball ache if I'm ever on my own...
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 20, 2014, 10:47:27 pm
This was £100 from a guy in West Drayton who had three made up by Dale at DRE Race Conposites. Had two left and he's sold the other one.
He also has a 5.7 engine for sale as I decided not to go ahead with my other friends one.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on August 20, 2014, 10:58:13 pm
So he's got another available ?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 20, 2014, 11:10:43 pm
Nah, this was the last one he had. Three initially made up for one on his car, two spares he put up for sale, I got this one, another guy bought the other.
Got no idea how I'm going to mount the thing. I shall leave it for a winter project to figure that out.
Is yours pinned all around?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on August 21, 2014, 09:55:44 am
Quoting: Andy
Is yours pinned all around?
Yes.
But I'm considering going back to hinges on the back for convenience . . . that said it's great to get the hood out of the way when you're working.
I'll bet that hood is a damn lot lighter than mine, too !
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 21, 2014, 11:50:08 am
Quoting: Roadkill
I'll bet that hood is a damn lot lighter than mine, too !
I can lift it on my own, but its just an awkward size and probably isn't best for it.
What I think I might do is run some ally angle section down the perimeter rib and make a bracket to hinge off of that. Do like the idea of it lifting completely out of the way though (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Big Mouse on August 25, 2014, 01:58:09 pm
Put it on the hinges but connect t them it with Dzus fasteners; it lifts up for easy access but can be removed completely for full access. Thats how WRE fitted my cowl hood and it was a godsend when I was on my own.
The rest of the hood was fitted with Dzus.
You can make out the Dzus in this pic, I'll try to find some others.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 25, 2014, 07:52:47 pm
Ahhh! Brilliant! That's exactly what I was thinking of doing! Cheers!
Btw, off topic, but is that your car up for sale on Eurodragster minus engine and gearbox?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 27, 2014, 01:12:12 pm
Had a bit of a spending spree, which probably isn't a good thing, but what the heck...
Just bought one of these: (http://cdn.sgs-engineering.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/232x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/e/c/ec2000.jpg)
One of these: (http://cdn.sgs-engineering.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/375x375/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/l/sll680_1.jpg)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on August 27, 2014, 04:57:34 pm
Quoting: Andy
(Which may not be obvious as it is folded up, but is an engine stand)
Now that is great!
How much was it if you don't mind me asking? (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/pokey.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on August 28, 2014, 08:24:51 am
That's the exact crane and load leveller I bought a few weeks back ...... Didn't need the stand but kinda wishing I had just got the set !
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 28, 2014, 03:30:58 pm
Yeah, I may have used the image for the 2 tonne crane when I actually only have the 1 tonne crane. Which is just typical as I now have to move a machine at work that is just over 1 1/2 tonnes (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/smirk.gif)
Anyway, SGS Engineering CP! Bloody good stuff too! Free next day delivery on orders over £50, the stand was £77 inc Vat, the crane I think was £110 + load leveller and Vat came to £155, but all seems to be good stuff.
Obviously not Uk made but all checked out by them and part assembled. By that I mean they've gone to the effort of putting the right bolts for the right bits, in the right holes. The crane took about 30mins to assemble with the hardest but getting all the washers on the bolts holding the castors on, which are about 50mm down the frame tube. Apart from that though, all seems solid enough.
Heavy though, 69kgs the crane came in at, the engine stand was 38kgs.
Then I picked this up last night, it's a mini project for me. I've seen it run but I'm still going to give it an overhaul in terms of leak down test, make sure stuff it ok. Then tart it up and swap them over.
What is that in the back of? (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/dontknow.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 29, 2014, 08:09:11 am
VW Caddy, 2005 gen on. Great for stuff like this, crap for carrying third gen bonnets.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on August 29, 2014, 09:56:58 pm
So first project for this new engine... getting the thing out of the van! The guy who I bought it off of craned it in there, but took his plate off, so ended up making up my own plate from some stainless bars and half an exhaust clamp.
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t1.0-9/10615535_10152684210183308_5174739125912490036_n.jpg) (yes, the rocker cover is on upside down...)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on September 01, 2014, 09:29:52 am
Engine Spec: 1971-1976 block 2 bolt main Stock crank and pistons Comp Cams Hydraulic 280 'Magnum' Cam Matching Comp Cams valve springs Standard 1.5 lift roller rockers World Products Motown 220 cast iron heads threaded rocker studs 1.68 x 2.08 valves Believed to be Malory HEI dizzy but not sure as yet Holley Contender air gap intake
First port of call is a leak down test to see if there is any excessive cylinder pressure drop on any of them. I have seen this run, but it wasn't hooked up to water so no idea of the health of the head gasket or that either.
Treating it as a rebuild and an educational experiment with the hope of eventually slotting it in my car.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on September 01, 2014, 09:48:23 am
It'll be a good little project . . . You'll get more power but that thing will weigh more with those heads.
Malory dizzy's normally have a plate on them saying as much. If there's nothing obviously denoting a brand there probably isn't a notable brand.
I had a cheapie dizzy in the 305 and it was the only part I re-used - ironically - in the 350 . . don't worry about that too much.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on September 02, 2014, 07:48:37 am
The weight thing I'm not too worries about. My current 305 is all iron too and the engine size difference I don't think will make a huge amount of difference. Ally heads would be lovely but for the time being these iron ones will do just fine.
Having now got it mounted on the engine stand, which takes it no sweat at all, I set about firstly rotating the rocker cover, but also giving both sides a going over. The oil looks good and there aren't any particles in it. The valve springs are doubled and it has some chunky looking pushrod guides. The roller rockers are Comp Cams steel 1.52 (not 1.5 as I thought) and all seem in good nick with no sign of any wear on the tips.
The M/T covers I think are going to go, not keen on the way they look and they don't fit the Moroso nitrile gasket either.
The heads could do with a rub down and a fresh coat of paint at some point in the future, but for now I'll wait until the weekend when I can get my hands on my friends leak down tester. If nothing bad comes back in this, I'll leave the heads on and assume the top end an rings are ok.
Then it'll be a case of drain oil, spin over and check the bottom end out.
Photos to come later...
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on September 02, 2014, 08:36:19 am
Have you researched the Cam at all ? Found out what it's good for ?
I'm no expert on Cams but that sounds very aggressive to me . . .
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on September 02, 2014, 08:51:12 am
Quoting: Andy
getting the thing out of the van!
I would have been worried about lifting it from the top like that incase it weakened the threads or something, but I think that is me over-thinking it! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/confused.gif)
What is it going in? (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/dontknow.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on September 02, 2014, 09:21:08 am
The cam is quite aggressive, but seen plenty of people get by using one in street cars. Recommends a higher stall convertor, so that will be on the list for future purchased!
Regards lifting via the manifold, no I wasn't keen either but everywhere on the net reckons it's perfectly fine on a SBC w/out trans. But now I have the thing mounted I will be looking at getting some studs for the heads so I can run chains off them in the future.
At the moment no where, but by spring time id like to look at putting it in my Camaro...
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on September 02, 2014, 10:15:23 am
CP - picking a motor up from there is normal, unless you know that there's damaged threads it'll be fine . . . I put the LT1 and the T56 mated together in the Z28 and it worked a treat . . . I have a purpose made plate which cost about $35 - would HIGHLY recommend !
Andy - What gears are you running now - I'd guess 3.73's would be the minimum with that.
I'd also guess that a higher compression ratio and decent headers would be good ?
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/dontknow.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Jamieg285 on September 02, 2014, 11:35:43 am
Quoting: Andy
The cam is quite aggressive, but seen plenty of people get by using one in street cars. Recommends a higher stall convertor, so that will be on the list for future purchased!
Uh-oh, alarm bells are ringing.
Don't think about installing this engine until you've got a converter to match. I made this mistake many years ago, dropping a 305 with a hot cam in and trying to use the stock converter. It will drive awful, hesitation on acceleration and bogging when cold.
Also - read the blurb on JEGS for that cam:
Quoting: Jegs/Crane
Intended for performance oriented vehicles that will see little street use. Stock components are generally incompatible. Changes are needed in rear end gear ratios, headers and the torque converter The smaller your engine is, the more the Magnum Camshaft will affect your power accessories. (i.e. Power brakes)
I appreciate that you race the car quite regularly and the cam will be good for that, but you need to make sure it's all compatible before using it.
In my case, I pulled the cam and used the one I'd been running in my 400. Thankfully it's been fine since then.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on September 02, 2014, 12:18:57 pm
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on September 02, 2014, 12:27:06 pm
Quoting: Roadkill
Andy - What gears are you running now - I'd guess 3.73's would be the minimum with that.
At the moment 3.08 Open diff. I have an Auburn series 3 carrier sat on the shelf fitted with 3.42 gears, although it wouldn't take a lot to put some new gears on it in its current state, its more getting it fitted and set up that is a bit worrying. I might just flog that all if my end of year bonus is good enough and take my rear axle to Hauser and get him to put one of them fancy TruTrac units in.
I can afford to go up a few ratios if I still with this box, which I'm likely to do, until it goes bang. Having a the overdrive won't make it so much of a ball ache on the motorway.
Quoting: Jamieg285
Don't think about installing this engine until you've got a converter to match. I made this mistake many years ago, dropping a 305 with a hot cam in and trying to use the stock converter. It will drive awful, hesitation on acceleration and bogging when cold.
Completely agree, I have no plans of installing this until it is thoroughly checked over and until I can afford all the other parts to go along with it... Torque Convertor, rear end gears and setup. I have a set of Hedman Headers which follow the stock route and end up at where the cat bolts on, from memory I can't remember what bore they are, but I'm hoping they will be sufficient enough.
This very much is still a bench project for the Cammy with one day the plan of it being fitted. I'm learning all the time and it's currently something which is staving off boredom and educating me at the same time.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on September 02, 2014, 01:14:31 pm
Also, get a mini-starter on there if you're running headers or the stock one will cook !
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/wink.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on September 02, 2014, 01:17:55 pm
Already on the list.
I don't like the rocker covers and would really like some like yours, just need to check what style accessory drive I'm going for first though.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on September 02, 2014, 01:31:20 pm
Quoting: Andy
would really like some like yours
I originally had "Canton" valve covers but they needed to be cut and shut to fit the alternator (that eventually moved).
The Canton ones were "supposed" to fit my set-up but didn't - so a bit $hit, really.
The ones on there now are "Spectre", IIRC . . . cheap compared to the Canton's but much, much better, IMO.
While I remember, here's what my lift plate picked up . . .
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on September 02, 2014, 01:41:35 pm
That's a T5 on there isn't it?
What have you had done to up rate that to take the extra power from the LT1?
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on September 02, 2014, 01:58:15 pm
It's an T56. The T5's are utter $hite behind the Chevies.
I had a T5 behind the 305 and even the "basically stock" 305 chewed it up . . .
Joking aside, the T5's seem to survive fine behind the equivalent 5.0L Fords but not the Chevy.
The T56 is the one that came in the Firebird we scrapped so it should cope for a while. i opened it up and everything looked O.K, it was a 30,000-something miler so I didn't worry too much.
The box has got some noise, but I need to do some light driving so I can hopefully form a pattern.
Visually the T5 and T56 are similar, the T56 is just a bit longer and slightly more stocky.
EDIT -
I had a T5 behind a 3.4L (4th Gen) Camaro and it worked great . . obviously the torque and power were lower in that, though.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on September 02, 2014, 06:59:52 pm
Ahh, that makes more sense. I know the 3rd gens only came with the T5 behind the 305 and thought that might've been the original box you had in your Z28.
That Firebird must've been rare, can't think I've seen any LT1 manuals! Only seen a few LS1 manuals as it happens.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on September 02, 2014, 07:07:08 pm
Quoting: Roadkill
While I remember, here's what my lift plate picked up . . .
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on September 04, 2014, 11:47:33 am
Quoting: Andy
DRE Race Conposites
Not to hijack but I've just emailed them about supplying me a 4" cowl hood . . . see what happens.
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/dontknow.gif)
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on September 04, 2014, 12:53:42 pm
No worries dude, he may ask you for your current hood so he can makes mould for it.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on September 04, 2014, 01:19:02 pm
Yeah, I guessed as much so have already offered it. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on September 15, 2014, 09:39:02 pm
Finally got around to doing a leak down test on this engine to see what I really had bought. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
After a little bit of head scratching and calibrating my gauge, I bunged it in cylinder 1 and immediately got a reading of a 110% compression. A little more head scratching revealed there was a Schrader valve in the quick connection spark plug lead that wasn't allowing any air to flow into the combustion chamber. This removed and retested, I ended up getting a more sensible reading of 10% loss in most cylinders with a couple only at 5%. I could also hear the air coming up from the oil gallery.
The only problem I came across was that cylinder 3 intake rocker never became loose when I was checking for TDC. The rocker arm stayed tight and I couldn't rotate the push rod at any point while turning over the engine. This I believe meant three possible things a) Lifter is stuck, b) Lifter is still full of oil c) The rocker arm is adjusted wrong.
I'm still not 100% sure how to tackle this, but everyone I've spoken to has said its a damn sight easy to work on an engine in a stand like this, than in a car, so might as well hook the intake off now and have a look at any possible issues. Only danger being I don't really want to remove the heads as I'm pretty happy with how they've checked out, and there is a high risk of me dropping stuff down the intake ports.
Moving on though, I drained the oil, disappointed to find the sump plug wasn't magnetic so got no clues from that, but with the pan off, no signs of any shiny bits or anything metallic in there. So fairly happy with that.
Rotated the engine to get a better look at the bottom end, healthy looking cam lobes with no signs of wear on them, the cylinders from what I could see seemed fairly decent nick, could still see some honing lines.
I left it there for the day as I had to be out, but next up will be removing some main bear caps to see what state the bearing material is in. May also get some plasti-gauge on there to see what sort of clearances I have on the bearing caps.
I'm also trying to find out more about this intake. A few people have told me with the flow on these heads and the cam that a stock plenum intake manifold like this may not being up to the job. Again, this is all new to me, so I guess more reading up I need to do!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on September 16, 2014, 12:27:01 pm
I'd guess the intake would be O.K for your heads . . . I still think it's the Cam that'll be the problem.
Go single plane to suit that cam but nothing much else will work the way you want.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 13, 2014, 09:15:43 pm
I guess this is due an update…
I ended up making it to the penultimate RWYB challenge meet at the Pod. I had decided this was where it was do or die for me running a 15 this year. The weather that morning was a bit sketchy, didn’t look fantastic when I left at 6am, but gradually got better getting nearer the Pod. The meet was a Saturday Night Special where they keep the track open til 8PM instead of shutting at the usual 5PM. This meant running into the darkness that was the top end, and also cooler air temps on a warmer track. If there was any chance of running that 15, this was it.
Turning up early at the RWYB sessions is pretty crucial to get some early ‘hot laps’ in before masses of others turn up, or any oil downs. Once opened I ended up trundling down the fire up road and being straight on the track. No burnout, shallow staged, fans off, gearbox in 1st. All set. I normally prefer racing silenced cars as I get a better chance of hearing if I’ve wheel spun off the line, this time and the first three other runs I drew up against a noisy as hell Toyota, however, all the launches felt good. I drove straight back down the return road and again was beckoned onto the track, must’ve only been about 5 cars running as the pair before had already gone through the top end. After this run though I stopped through the pits as one of my RWYB mates had hollered well done. Not really sure what he meant, he said I’d just ran a 15… a 15.90, backed up by a 15.91
More excited than anything I got back in the car and went straight back down the fire up road. The track was great, the air was great and obviously the weather was spot on too. The car seemed strong as well, launching hard yet not spinning up giving me some of the best 60′ times I’d ever run. I got back to the start line, now well practised in my procedure, avoid the water box, little hard launch to haze the tyres, drop it in first, fans off, prestage and then just light the stage bulb.
Came back to the pits, parked up and again my mate came over and said well done, unbeknown to me I’d just ran a 15.78, the fastest run the car has ever done and a perfect way to finish up the RWYB challenge for me. I did stay for the rest of the day, but the car went away with the heat and running into the night didn’t prove to be worthy as it went into the mid 16s. I can only put that down possibly to the air quality.
This made my weekend for sure, I needed it after the previous night working on my 350 engine which I had hoped to drop in the car over the winter. I had bought it as a project, not expecting it to be much good, but more a way of learning how to build and engine and such. However when I did a leak down test and it proved to be in pretty good shape I actually thought I might get away with just dropping the engine straight in with a few simple changes to the drivetrain.
However I pulled off the main caps bearings and gave them a once over, the results were not fantastic. Nearly everyone was scored through the white metal, suggesting at some point this engine has suffered from oil starvation. I do however reckon it might be more down to the quality of the oil, which on removing was very thin and smelt strongly of petrol.
With the mains in such a bad way, I really had to check out the big ends and at this point I might as well pull the heads, take out the pistons and give the crank a proper go over. Just like the mains, the big ends appear to have suffered a lack of quality oil too, so these will need replacing as well. With the engine in bits, my plan is now to upgrade what I can and take my time with the rebuild process. I don’t really see a need to have it fitted before next year, so I won’t be rushing to complete it, but I would like it to be the best engine I can build and one that gives me performance on the street and on the strip.
Stripping the water pump and front pulley, starting to pull the harmonic balancer: (http://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/1926887_10152789852103308_2449058087683197519_n.jpg?oh=51c87905e85adec6f17df2db89ecb77b&oe=54B4D8D5&__gda__=1421105246_690eae71ae04b13ec5bed038c4f82325)
Manifold off, some nice ARP hardware used on this engine: (http://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10665162_10152789852638308_3505113238654598134_n.jpg?oh=8d72b95d13747c8b9ec8a53c9d14ee2f&oe=54B4F027&__gda__=1420968050_70201eb756d6e3fe3dfa0c0d46f18d60)
Push rods cleaned and checked, all seem ok: (http://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/1897721_10152789853693308_1605765864409575447_n.jpg?oh=85f7873f8630571309063d1f667375e6&oe=54C429DE)
Heads off, noticed the gasket seems to be pooling water on the return side of the head: (http://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/7096_10152789854388308_3686847477253248689_n.jpg?oh=12d368ced9fdd1e7abe39530b9a55ac9&oe=54C10F1B&__gda__=1425475481_4de1722e0f1964a437958775b5dd42a8)
Lifters in order, everything is laid out as though you're looking at the engine from the front: (http://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/1800364_10152789857188308_3725164661854050611_n.jpg?oh=516732694772332b31688ed4bc21b3ed&oe=54C44B19&__gda__=1420473006_73b91960d9ef972c8fe769474ad4fa23)
Bores that I need advice on: (http://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/1959250_10152789857858308_5307046638630707827_n.jpg?oh=c9653c44b8bf2475fd3e38cc9e133668&oe=54F86442)
Everything laid out: (http://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/l/t1.0-9/10290037_10152789858093308_7726654047212494618_n.jpg?oh=fcab685332a294653b547e819bad4acd&oe=54C1E121)
Heads awaiting cleaning and de-coking: (http://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/1959353_10152789859323308_8440473408716730540_n.jpg?oh=640190f707989f52d260b64fb248c644&oe=54F01B10)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 21, 2014, 11:58:47 pm
I had planned for this winter being one of engine swapping, but having thought long and hard about it, and the possible financial circumstances that might involve, for the time being my winter plans for the car no longer involve getting the 350 in. I shall save that for later in the year.
Instead I have drawn up this list
- Get the rear end sorted out, LSD installed, gears changes 3.08 -> 3.73, Detroit TrueTrac installed. - Get Subframe connectors welded in. - At least have Fibreglass hood close to being fitted or installed, not worried if painted or not. - Sort out weather stripping and leaks in the car. - Oil and filter change - Coolant change - Remove the remains of the AC system. - Fit front fog lights.
All but the rear end I have waiting to install or fit. Its just a case of getting the time or enthusiasm to do it. Hopefully though all that will be somewhere close to being done by the RWYB season next year.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 23, 2014, 04:00:54 pm
A much more sensible approach, IMHO. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/iagree.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on October 31, 2014, 05:00:59 pm
Hmm, an interesting update this, and one that could either make it or break it.
Decided that as I wasn't going to do too much with the engine until next year, I might as well clean stuff, so assembly is more a case of just carefully putting nice clean parts together.
First up with cleaning down the block. All the gasket surfaces got the scraper treatment and I still need to carefully go over the head mounting surfaces as I didn't remove the ARP studs. I have every intention of going with a traditional GM Orange colour for the block, but will see where I can get the thing washed first.
Next up was cleaning off the ridiculous amounts of carbon build up on the pistons. I knew the guy had used gas at the track, as he told me, and he always over fuelled it to be on the safe side. But this is to another level.
Anyway, I tried to get it off with a rag and ended up resorting to carefully scraping the carbon off with a scraper, making sure not to damage the ally. Then, something appeared out of the deposits... oh shit.
There in the middle is stamped .060" and measuring up a piston, sure enough about .002" on 4.060". So that now means I hope when I crack test this, it comes up ok, otherwise I have myself a rather fancy table.
I ended up finding the best approach to cleaning these was a decent soak in Jizer, bit of a rub with a scotch pad and finished off on a brass wire wheel, to get into the valve reliefs.
All the pistons look to be in good shape, one of two have slight nicks in them, but nothing that would cause any issues. The big end shells on these will need replacing, thankfully they're not as far gone as the mains bearings, but still a couple show some quite considerable wear.
Not entirely sure what to do about the rings, whether to replace of keep the old ones. I'm getting mixed messages from various people as to what to do there. The leak down test seemed to show they were good of holding pressure, but whether disturbing them like this will cause issues I don't know.
My crank is still in the block and I'm waiting time to go up and remove the timing chain and take it out for measuring and redressing. I did a newbie error and appear to have left a slight witness mark on the journal from removing a rod, nothing that I don't think won't polish out, again, this all needs finalising once I've put a mic over it.
I've ordered a 3 stone hone and intend on deglazing the bores. This again is something I'm getting mixed messages about. I can see cross hatchings down the bores, but they look very shiny and as though they are varnished over. A tell tale sign of bore glazing. Having put a bore gauge down the bores I'm finding at worst, .002" of ovality on the thrust sides. I need to find out if this is good or not.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on October 31, 2014, 05:25:05 pm
Doesn't look too bad.
+60 thou ain't a great start, though, on a Chevy. That said it should last you "long enough".
It'd be inclined to swap out the rings myself - they're not a major expense - but that's me.
2 thou ovality sounds O.K to me but I never even checked the LT1 before I put it in the Camaro. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rofls.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 02, 2014, 09:42:28 pm
Even though I've said I'm not going to be installing this anytime soon, I know I've now given it more attention than the car... thats mainly due to me not wanting to face the bill for the rear end anytime soon! It will happen (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Anyway, yesterday I got round to completely gutting the block, I wasn't terribly keen on doing it, but I have to hone it, clean it and I want to repaint it, so it all needs to come out.
First thing I did was get some decent photos of the timing setup. I know it sounds bad, but ever since hearing a car running timing gears, I've always wanted a set... now I genuinely have the opportunity to do it, I'm not sure whether it'll be a bit too much noise to live with. That said, just like the rods and crank, this is all stock GM parts, so I'm tempted to get something a bit smarter.
Pulled the Cam as I wanted to 100% confirm the grind of the cam before I commit to purchase stuff that'll make it run. Sure enough comes back as a Comp Cams 280H. The actual lift at .050" is 230* of duration, not quite as bad as 280* that it is marketed as. Still recommends gears and a higher speed t/c which was on the list anyway.
With the cam out, the last thing to pull was the crank. I intend on taking this to work and seeing if I can put some crocus paper on the bearing surfaces and see if I can't bring it up a bit better. As it stands, it doesn't feel too bad, no major scores or marks anywhere. Its just visible that you can see them.
The engine side bearings seem worn, but nothing like as bad as the cap bearings. I'm definitely going to go over the oiling system before this all gets buttoned back together.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 19, 2014, 01:18:50 pm
Bit of an update to proceedings.
I decided to get the engine honed by a machine shop rather than risk buggering it up myself. Also part of that will be it getting put through a washer and degreaser. Seeing as I want to paint this engine, I decided it would be a good idea to get all the remains of the paint off before hand... messy job with an angle grinder!
(http://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10641074_10152861914828308_3282840967091979229_n.jpg?oh=1986999e8f8dfab60b44dbc4e32a9eac&oe=54E36E3F) ... impossible to read casting number...
(http://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/r90/1509306_10152861915333308_4230392474709076597_n.jpg?oh=4394fabec60a37eafabf46bcb1c1e950&oe=54DF7685) ... Engine and car VIN over punched with some other numbers...
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10377260_10152861914268308_1503426746197088_n.jpg?oh=5cdfd98a2a27e7f744660966b986393e&oe=551DB3D1&__gda__=1424060490_8776002f776c84c54a707706a39df0d4) ... chasing out the millions of oil pan and timing cover thread...
You'll also noticed I removed all the ARP head studs which had been in place. These all got a good cleaning in the jizer and then in the ultrasonic cleaner... which as far as I can tell does nothing! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
The engine is now at a local engine machine shop, getting professionally honed and washed. I also dropped the crank off there to be polished. There was only so much I could do myself on the lathes here. That will also be getting a thorough wash through as well.
With those now out for work, I turned my attention to getting all the other little bits that I have cleaned and ready for reassembly. That's when I saw this and wondered if it matters or not...
(http://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10411837_10152875475428308_7019481707151964454_n.jpg?oh=14f988c2a1bb225f708bedd1b49d2dc5&oe=54DB31B3&__gda__=1423796389_e17d0d8e6adc0a7b4a80c51f47166a76) ... Intake manifold, notice the front and middle coolant passages...
My cylinder heads have coolant passages at the front and at the back, not in the middle, will this cause the back cylinders to run hotter?
So if anyone knows, I sure would appreciate any input (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on November 19, 2014, 01:27:06 pm
Oh and I decoded the VIN for this engine.
T = Tonawanda 08 = August 07 = 7th day TDA = 1980 350 V8 in a C10 or C15 Truck
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on November 19, 2014, 08:15:28 pm
Quoting: Andy
Engine and car VIN over punched with some other numbers...
You may find that's a reference to a builder who's rebuilt it at some point in its life . . .
If you're worried about the intake coolant passages, Google some images for comparison . . . I don't recall what's the norm, TBH . . . does seem odd, though, that the back passage (oo-er) isn't utilised.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Big Mouse on November 19, 2014, 08:17:30 pm
Quoting: Roadkill
Not to hijack but I've just emailed them about supplying me a 4" cowl hood . . . see what happens.
Dale altered my 4" cowl when we noticed it had no clearance over the carb once the nitrous plate was fitted - I didn't like the end shape but the quality of his work is good
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on November 19, 2014, 10:02:36 pm
He got back to me and said he can do 3" but to call him. I haven't actually seen the Camaro since then so haven't called him back.
I don't think I can get away with a 3" without using a smaller air filter (and I love my air filter (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/hug.gif) ) . . so we'll see.
I'll give him a call when I get a day off ! (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/work.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on December 04, 2014, 01:24:03 pm
Time for another bit of an update...
Sent the block off to be honed professionally and have the cranks polished. It came back looking schweet! Also can both of them a thorough wash through, and now just need me to get around to painting. Going to be painted GM Orange... will be interesting to see how that works out (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
Along with this was my first order of 'bits' from Real Steel. At this point I hadn't got the crank back so couldn't order the shells. Those will be in the next order, along with intake and manifold gaskets, timing cover gaskets, seals etc.
Moving away from the engine, focus shifts to the other end of the car. For ages I've been looking at getting an LSD sorted, and at one point buying a 4th gen Auburn unit. After talking a while to some various axle builders and friends, I was swayed towards the Eaton TruTrac carrier. This doesn't have clutch material or wearable parts and instead uses helix gears across the perimeter of either sides half shafts... if that makes sense. Sod it, I'll copy the video:
Anyway, I've got that now, along with a set of 3.73 gears and a full rebuild kit. I intend on doing the work myself... although I'll see how I get on with setting it up, as I know setting one of these up can be incredibly time consuming and hard. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on December 04, 2014, 02:56:43 pm
RK approves of these shiny things. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/cool.gif)
(Glad you went with a double-roller instead of a timing gear set up, too)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on December 13, 2014, 10:13:12 am
Have a free weekend and was hoping to get some way in to building the motor back up but my order from Real Steel is being delayed as some parts are waiting in customs.
Now waiting for the main cap bearings and the big end bearings, as well as some replacement parts for the oil system. Not taking any chances with the old oil system parts, just replacing them all. New stock sump pan as well, with pickup, which when I go to fit will be checked over for clearances.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on January 26, 2015, 10:24:30 pm
Was a bit of a delay on getting the work started on my axle, had to wait for the workshop to become free, but finally got it out and back to my work (have far more tools and machines + it is heated.)
Carrier, pinion and all bearing races removed. Thoroughly cleaned with brake cleaner. Also removed the fairly large burr from where the axle tube bore had been machined into the centre pumpkin casting. Nice GM quality control there!
In removing the drum brake backing plates from the axle, I had to muller the huge bolt that anchors the drum brake springs. Turns out these are out of production and no longer able to be purchased, guess I'll have to make my own!
Next problem was to suss out how to remove the pinion bearing for setting the pinion depth. Would need to be able to remove the bearing several times without destroying it. Would be nice to get my hands on the Yukon clamshell design thing, but unfortunately they cost a fortune, so again, time to make up my own!
Now the pinion and bearing are apart, I've measured up the shim, turns out to be .031".
Now waiting for the Axle casing to come back from the shot blasters and being powder coated. Then the rebuild can begin!
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on January 27, 2015, 08:35:35 am
Lovely bit of fabrication work (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/diy.gif)
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/thumbsup.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 01, 2015, 11:02:55 am
GM 10 Bolt Torque and Preload specs:
Ring Gear bolt torque: 65ft lbs (Left hand thread, use locktite.) Carrier Cap bolts: 55ft - 60ft lbs Pinion Preload: 20" lbs (using swing bar to set and rotational torque not break away.) Ring and Pinion Backlash: .006" - .010" on edge of ring gear tooth Carrier Preload: Test installation should be a snug push fit, final installation with a brass mallet
Prepping the ring gear for installation, using a set of Motive 3.73:1 gears designed for a series 3 carrier:
Install inner pinion bearing on pinion gear with 'stock' (shim you removed from original install) underneath. Oil up bearings as installing. Fit outer pinion bearing and yoke, do not install crush sleeve at this time. Using the old pinion nut and washer, tighten down bearings until 20" lbs of rotational torque is made.
Now time to install the carrier into the casing. Working from the ring gear side, install shim(s) until the ring gear seems to be in tight contact with the pinion. Shim out opposite side until snug fit is achieved with installing the carrier.
Using a DTI (Clock) check for backlash of the pinion and ring gear engagement. Aiming for between .006" - .010". Decrease the shim amount on the ring gear side to increase backlash, increase the amount of shim on the ring gear side to decrease backlash. Whatever shim you add or remove from the ring gear side, it must be replaced on the other side to maintain the carrier preload.
Once the correct backlash has been achieved, time to get the gear marking compound out to see what gear contact pattern is being formed.
First pattern ran at .006" of backlash with .032" shim...
On inspection, this appeared to show the pinion shim being too large as the pattern was very deep within the ring gear. Recommend that I remove the pinion shim for .002" less.
Second pattern formed with .006" of backlash and a .030" shim under the pinion bearing...
Here you can see the Coast side gear patter is nicely centralised in the gear tooth, and has a round appearance. However on the drive side, the pattern is similar but has moved out towards the heel (outside) of the ring gear.
An idea gear contact pattern is one with an oval round appearance, that sits in the middle of the tooth favouring the toe (inside edge) of the ring gear on both sides.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on February 02, 2015, 10:13:18 am
Quoting: Andy
However on the drive side, the pattern is similar but has moved out towards the heel (outside) of the ring gear.
Have you re-shimmed again, yet ?
I can't believe 2 thou would make that much difference. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 02, 2015, 10:22:46 am
The consensus from my american friend 'Big Gear Head' is that he prefered the .032" shim, and that perhaps I should've shot for more backlash. Greater backlash will also make the pattern edge towards the heel of the tooth. He liked either pattern but prefered both being centralised.
It's recommemded making .003" shim changes to the pinion at a time to get a noticeable change. Thankfully my bearing puller is working like a charm!
I'm currently waiting on a new outer bearing to arrive before I make any more changes. First thing I shall do is try rerunning the pattern with a greater backlash allowance.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on February 02, 2015, 11:08:11 am
Quoting: Andy
He liked either pattern but prefered both being centralised.
Makes sense to me. It's like so many things . . . once you've done it a thousand times, you know what you can realistically get away with.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 02, 2015, 10:43:30 pm
Had another bash at this during lunch time, I'm not about to remove the pinion just yet, I'll wait until the new outer bearing turns up so I can get the sliding fit all spot on.
What I did achieve though was an increase on the backlash from .006" up to .009" this gave me following pattern...
The coast pattern is pretty much spot on for what I want to achieve, but the drive side is just a tad too far out for my liking. I'm going to leave the carrier shims where they are and replace the pinion shim. This should hopefully bring the drive pattern is, which at the same time bring down the backlash figure.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Cunning Plan on February 03, 2015, 09:50:04 am
Interesting part of the project. This is part of drive-train build process I did not know about, so it is interesting to read.
(P.S. Have you seen the latest HotRod garage? They are playing with gear boxes (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif))
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 03, 2015, 12:57:20 pm
I had a long list of things I wanted to get done over winter for next years RWYB challenge and the Power Tour. In the end I spent far too much time messing around with the engine, which I really don't intend on fitting till summer at the earliest, than getting on with the jobs I really wanted to do.
So along with the differential bits I bought, I've also purchased adjustable Panhard bar, adjustable Lower Control arms, uprated Torque arm, Lakewood drag shocks, KYB adjustable front shocks and a set of lowering springs. The springs were more an appearance thing than anything else. I've had far too many comments about my arch gap...
Most of the bits I've bought all bolt onto, or around the axle, so going with a complete refurb on the whole shooting match seemed like a plan. Once I have all the above bolted back in again, I shall then be taking it over to a friends workshop to have the SFC welded in.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Ralph on February 06, 2015, 08:20:06 am
win win win. Always wondered where this thread was and then stumbled across it in somewhere I was not expecting!
Awesome stuff though chap.
I refuse to offer any more help in your workshop until that kettle can actually be plugged in and the remaining tea making facilities are in place haha
Title: Finally!
Post by: art b on February 06, 2015, 12:40:32 pm
lots of interesting stuff and good work andy (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: art b on February 06, 2015, 12:42:57 pm
Quoting: Ralph
I refuse to offer any more help in your workshop until that kettle can actually be plugged in and the remaining tea making facilities are in place haha
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/shame.gif) and i thought andy was a nice bloke until this ....(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/down.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Ralph on February 06, 2015, 02:47:50 pm
It was all a vicious lie to get us there.
Asked if we wanted a cup of tea, I volunteered to fill the kettle... Told not to use the water from the tank/there isn't any... So I go in armed with my bottle of water I happened to have with me... Only to find out there is no base for the kettle, cups, tea bags... Well anything else.
Wasn't impressed. I'd rather have been told there was nothing form the start then expectations would not have been raised.
Such a shame.
There have been new bribes recently so I may well give him a 2nd chance.. If this is also another 'wolf crying' incident it may well be the last time haha
Title: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on February 06, 2015, 03:58:13 pm
Quoting: Ralph
I'd rather have been told there was nothing form the start then expectations would not have been raised.
I assume the issue was immediately rectified by way of a take-away pizza / curry / chinese ?
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif)
*** Sudden flash back to when we were working on Incursus' Duster at my works unit at silly-O'Clock at night one time and Art knocked on the door with a KFC in hand !
That was awesome. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
I only paint Black. (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rofls.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: art b on February 06, 2015, 05:36:33 pm
Quoting: Roadkill
*** Sudden flash back to when we were working on Incursus' Duster at my works unit at silly-O'Clock at night one time and Art knocked on the door with a KFC in hand !
(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/tongue.gif) ya gotta keep the team happy ..(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/rtfm.gif)
it may have been when we were working on your maro too or was pot noodles...(http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/chiny.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 07, 2015, 10:13:55 am
Bit of an update, new bearing arrived, I had suspected the outside pinion bearing and race of being shot from the initial uninstall and fighting against it to remove it. Rather than risk anything though I decided to change both bearings and races, this does mean that any patterns from before won't be the same as the inner pinion bearing will also change the depth that the gear is in the case.
Just to give an idea in case people are scratching their heads about how this all works...
Pinion Preload
Whenever checking the pinion depth or backlash or even running a gear contact pattern, the first thing to ensure is that the pinion gear is actually under a load and not 'free spinning' in the bearings. This is to replicate the effect that the crush sleeve will have on the bearings on the final install. As the crush sleeve is a once only use item, it isn't used until the final install once all the other items are checked over.
The preload is determined by how tight the pinion nut is and how much pressure the yoke is forcing on the back of the outer pinion bearing. The preload is measured in INCH pounds and it is the rotational force not the initial break away force required to make the pinion rotate.
On the final assembly of the axle, this preload needs to be achieved but with the crush sleeve used between the outer bearing and a location on the pinion gear shaft. The crush sleeve ensures that there is always a preload there and that there can't be any movement towards the ring gear of the pinion gear, unless the nut comes off.
The pinion has to angular opposed bearings on it, one main big one called the inner (sits right behind the pinion gear) and has the depth controlling shim between it and the back of the gear. The outer is at the opposite end and it pressed on from behind by the yoke.
The depth control is important to the gear setup, as too deep engagement (thicker pinion shim being used) risks the possibility of the gears binding under extreme load. Too higher a contact (thinner or no shim being used) risks tooth breakage from the load being focused on the edge of the tooth.
Backlash
Backlash is the physical movement between the pinion and ring gear. This is controlled both by the pinion depth shim but largely also by the carrier preload shims either side of the carrier between the casing and carrier bearings.
These shims adjust the location of the carrier in the casing, moving it towards the pinion (adding shims to the ring side and removing them from the other side) decreasing backlash and increases the engagement. Moving the ring away (removing shims on the ring side and adding on the other) will increase the backlash seen between the ring and pinion.
Whenever removing shims from one side, you must add the same number to the other. This maintains the carrier preload on the bearings. For all these test installs the carrier has been a 'snug fit' in the casing. When it comes to the final install and the shims are installed for good, it is always a good idea to have it tight as possible, with the last shims being tapped in with a brass hammer.
Checking the backlash is done with a Dial Test Indicator on the outer most edge of a tooth, while holding the pinion gear and rocking the ring back and forth.
Gear Contact Patterns
So once you have done all of the above it is now time to finally mark up about 4 - 5 teeth on the ring gear with the yellow gear marking compound. This stuff is great for being able to see what contact the gears are actually having when then mesh. From the patterns you can get an idea of what adjustments to your setup are required.
It is crucial to have a decent or acceptable pattern, as there will be no fun when the first time you hit it and the ring gear teeth say adios, this is the most time consuming, but also rewarding stage of the build, as you actually get to see what all the stages above achieve. The hardest part is understanding what changes to the above (Pinion Depth, Backlash) will do the contact pattern you see.
The diagram above is a good way to understand it, but they are very much 'in a perfect world' adjustments. As I found with mine, I had the drive side move all over the shop while the coast pattern seemed to say pretty centralised. This can throw you off when it comes to adjusting the next gear run.
This video however explains it a lot better than diagrams like that.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 08, 2015, 10:56:25 pm
I set aside 4 hours yesterday to get the install wrapped up.... I wasn't intending on rushing it at all, and I didn't BUT holy crap!
First thing was to get the backlash up a tad. As read in the motive gear manual .007" - .009" was recommended. I managed to get it spot on .007" which was great, as well as that, I've now preloaded the carrier to the point that I have to use a bit of brass bar and tap in the last bit of shim on the non-ring gear side. Very confident it's sat in there nice.
So stripped it all out, blew out the case completely with the air gun, cleaned the races down and smeared some gear oil on them. Cleaned most of the gear marking compound off, found it very difficult to remove all of it, and was more worried about putting it all over the bearings. I'm sure it won't cause any damage, but would prefer there wasn't any contaminants in there.
Installed the pinion seal nice and secure with the outer bearing in place. Oiled up the big pinion bearing, installed the crush sleeve, put a bit of oil on the shaft where the out race runs on. Installed and put the yoke (now with rtv on the splines of the yoke) drew it up with the old nut and washer. With about 1/4" of travel left on the outer pinion bearing I put the new nut on with loctite on.
I will say now, up until this point everything was going great... trouble first started when I put the new pinion nut on. Jesus Rollerskating Christ, that's tough just putting it on! This one from Richmond was obvious crimped in three place around the end. As soon as you hit that it becomes INCREDIBLY tough to put on there. However with two breaker bars, plus a 4' extension on each bar I finally drew the nut up tight so there was no more play. Now to get the crush sleeve crushed. In comparison, that was easy, and slight tug got me to 10" Lbs, then a tiny and I mean TINY, budge, got me to 18" Lbs. I'm not a gambling man, but in this game of black jack I went twist and boom, straight on 20" Lbs, with another TINY budge.
This whole sorry story of just trying to get the nut down though took up far too much time and I had to call it quits as I was off out for the evening. So I ended up going back today to finish it off.
Jobs to do were to install the carrier, recheck the backlash and adjust accordingly. Reinstall the axle bearings, seals, drum backing plates with my new anchor pin bolts, half shafts, c-clips, install the spacer, locking cap on the diff brake lines, and all the other fixings.
Ended up taking a good few hours to finish it. Only thing that miffed me was the cover. I had bought an aftermarket aluminium cover that has the ability to put pressure on the carrier caps. Only problem was that the bolts were short by about 1/2" They only got about two turns of thread out of them. Very disappointing after all the effort I've put into it.
Either way, here's the final item, weighs a fair bit more than it did removed. The LSD, Gears and Half shafts are much larger than stock or before.
As always with these things I spent about an hour just trying to take two bolts off and fit the new poly torque arm bush in the back of the transmission.
Title: Finally!
Post by: Andy on February 16, 2015, 01:20:59 pm
With the help of Ralph and Adam, this happened yesterday...
Now just need to break in the new gears and give her a good wash and wax!
Title: Finally!
Post by: ianjpage on February 16, 2015, 09:07:28 pm
looking good now it back together again (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/smileys/up.gif)
Title: Finally!
Post by: Ralph on February 17, 2015, 01:06:37 pm
It was a day of much victory!
Can't wait to see it scream down the track with it's new rear end!
NOW GET THAT ******* MOTOR BUILT!!!
Title: Re: Finally!
Post by: Andy on June 18, 2015, 07:59:22 am
I guess it's time for the Bi-annual update!
So, since the rear end went in and all the suspension work, it has now been a case of seeing what improvements it has actually made to the car on the strip. The whole purpose of the exercise was to try and make the thing more consistent and make it a bit more predictable for Sportsman ET racing.
After a couple of good RWYB sessions the car was now settling down to show that the new rear end had picked up a good couple of tenths over the 1/4 and that it now was far more consistent than it ever had been. No longer was I wheel spinning one off the line, but instead it now chirps going into 2nd and 3rd.
Now with the car performing better than it ever had I decided it was time to actually enter into a competition, thanks to my mate Tom the Camaro has now been dubbed 50 Shades of Green Racing, which kinda works! Anyway, first event was the Springspeed Nationals at Shakespeare County Raceway. Having done the Dial-in day before I was used to the format, but doing it for real in competition adds a whole new level to it.
I qualified poorly and couldn't figure out where the track was going. I massively over estimated the difference in tracks between Shakey and the Pod which left me second guessing what the car was going to run. In the end I qualified second from bottom, taking on the runner up in the Sportsman ET championship in Round 1. Thinking that that's where my weekend was going to end, it was actually quite good fun running him down by half track and then just tapping the throttle to stay ahead of him through the traps! In round 2 I ended up with Number 1 qualifier Jon Crawford, running his VW Sharron. Again I ended up running him down by 1000ft and just keeping myself ahead as we crossed the finish line and winning. That put me in the Semi-finals against Ricky Hale who now was going to be running me down. This is where I struggled as by now the track had come round and out of no where, instead of running 16.2, I broke out and set a new track PB of 15.9 - I thought what the hell, still a PB!
So now with that under my belt, I've decided to enter Sportsman ET at the Summer Nationals next weekend at Santa Pod. Should be a good weekend and an interesting one!
That said, I've still been doing work on the car, I bought a set of 4th Gen seats, as I wasn't overly happy with the way the 3rd gen ones just flop forward, there is no locking mechanism except for when the car decelerates, then the seat locks up.
I was really skeptical about these, expecting them to not really do much, probably just add extra weight that I had been trying so hard to lose, but my god, the difference really is night and day. The dash no longer rattles, the doors don't rattle or bounce around when driving, the car feels so much tighter and the rear end really feels like it digs in through corners. I got them welded in by Wolfy and Wolfy's Workshop just outside Brackley. Managed to score some ramp time on Tom's 4 post lift which meant all the suspension was preloaded while they were welded in.
my god, the difference really is night and day. The dash no longer rattles, the doors don't rattle or bounce around when driving, the car feels so much tighter and the rear end really feels like it digs in through corners.
I really should do this, I said to Rocky when I bought the IROC from his uncle that i'd be back later in the year to have SFCs fitted... that was 9 years ago!!
I also REALLY should fit all the Spohn stuff i've had for nearly 5 years for the rear end of the car, paint the rear axle and fit the TA performance diff cover i've also had for the same length of time!! I have 2 weeks off in late September... that would be an ideal time to fit everything and get the drive shaft balancing checked and the tail seal changed on the 700R4.
I'd like to fit these too... http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-GM-F-Body/Suspension/Springs-Accessories/Eibach-Pro-Performance-Lowering-Springs.html But am really nervous about "taking the Plunge" + it'd then be classed as a "Modified Vehicle" for insurance
Sorry :hijack4:
Title: Re: Finally!
Post by: Andy on June 18, 2015, 02:10:58 pm
Up until now I though the tyres and wheels were the best thing I'd done to the car. Changing from BF Goodrich on 15s to Kuhmos on 16" rims made the car a completely different driving experience. Add to that the KYB adjustable shocks and new Lakewoods in the back as well as the Summit lowering springs, the car really does handle very well, the SFCs were just the icing on the cake, making it feel much like a modern car and one you can throw around comfortably!
If Rocky hasn't got time to make you some, get some of the Alston ones, they're not as intrusive to the underside of your car, but thoroughly recommend lifting the passenger and drivers carpets and underlays if you get them welded in.
Regarding insurance, while technically it's a mod, I see it more as a replacement of like for like, but better. The only physical mods being the SFCs, which I'd love to see how an insurance person would warrant as a modification.
Still in awe at how many sqeaks and rattles have been sorted though!
Title: Re: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on June 19, 2015, 04:56:54 pm
I used to be a big Real Steel fan, but now cannot recommend Topspeed Automotive enough, open 7 days a week too.
Title: Re: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on June 22, 2015, 01:52:33 pm
Are you not using PCV ?
Title: Re: Finally!
Post by: Andy on June 22, 2015, 03:42:32 pm
Yeah, I bunged those two in there as they came with the covers, will be sorting the PCV system out once I figure out what I'm feeding it with.
A friend has a Holley 650 BNIB that I think will work with it.
Title: Re: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on June 22, 2015, 03:46:52 pm
650cfm ?
No. Too much (IMHO). You'll never get it running right.
The muppet I bought my Camaro off (when it had a 305) had a big ole Holley on it (ran for 30 minutes only - I still have it) but never got it settled until he went smaller.
I've got an Edelbrock on the LT1 - not ideal but runs out of the box so perfect when there's lots of other variables - which I'll upgrade later.
You'd be better with a 500/550.
EDIT - Try this : http://www.summitracing.com/expertadviceandnews/calcsandtools/cfm-calculator
Even my Cadillac 512ci, turning 5500 rpm could get away with a 650 (on the street, at least).
Title: Re: Finally!
Post by: Ralph on June 24, 2015, 12:10:03 pm
Dibs has a race car now though so a 650 will be OK. Ollie hasn't done much with it for years so if he lets you take it for a trial run might be worth it. (Just don't set fire to it)
Our fav american magazines opinion:
Quote (selected)
"If you are reluctant to trade top-end performance for all-around driveability, there are several cheats that will allow a larger-than-normal (for the given application and combo) carb to do a satisfactory driveability job. One important method is secondary actuation.
Normally a mild converter, weak rearend gears, and/or a heavy vehicle will call for a smaller carb to retain decent low-end performance. But we know the smaller carb restricts power upstairs. One possible solution: Run the larger carb, but with vacuum (instead of mechanical) secondaries. Vacuum secondaries won’t open until the engine needs the extra airflow. Assuming the vacuum secondaries are properly tuned with the appropriate-tension spring, the engine won’t bog even if you punch the throttle wide-open at low speed. But when there’s sufficient primary airflow to allow the diaphragm to open the secondaries, the engine is ready to accept the extra capacity. Grant says vacuum-secondary carbs work particularly well if running under 3.55:1 gears, the car weighs over 3,500 pounds, or if you have 8.5:1 or less compression."
As you have really low compression too it may be boarder-line but I like big carbs on stuff so I will be slightly biased.
Title: Re: Finally!
Post by: Roadkill on June 24, 2015, 01:58:54 pm
I'm assuming, despite recent successes on the 1/4 mile, that most of the time (probably 90%) the car will still be on the street ?
I'm no expert so I'll wait and see how you get on . . .
I've got this currently sitting on my desk at work which I'm wondering what to do with.