Announcing - Project Garage Mk II - The uber extension !!!

[Roadkill]

concreting it in will be simpler

How will you concrete it in? Simply cover the pipe in concrete? Will it damage it when it it expands when drying?

Yeah, just cover it over . . there's not enough weight of concrete to damage the pipe and the concrete will shrink, if anything, not expand due to the moisture loss . . .

[Cunning Plan]

What about if you ever needed to take the floor up again?

Is it worth placing a metal shield over the top of the pipe so that if you were to take the floor back up, you would hammer into the shield rather than the pipe? 

[Roadkill]

That is the risk and that is why I was going to do something like that, surrounding the pipe with pea-shingle and having a metal inspection panel . . . . . . however, realistically, IF there's ever a problem with it, I've kind of run out of options with it.

If the soak-away becomes blocked or starts backing-up, it's always the soak-away itself that's the issue, not the pipe(s) leading up to it so having access wouldn't help.

If there was an issue, the best I could do is dig another soak-away and re-route the plumbing to that . . . . . . . or exit the run-off onto a neighbour's garden !!!   

[Roadkill]

What about if you ever needed to take the floor up again?

I really, really, really hope I don't need to.

I've considered all possibilities and eventualities (both realistic and totally unrealistic) and none require the floor (in that area, at least) being taken up again.

He says . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

[Cunning Plan]

Ah sounds like it is all thought out 

(BTW, I was not questioning your methods, I was learning through the discussion incase I need to do anything like that at some point). 

[Roadkill]

That's the whole point of these threads I do . . . to encourage other people to get off their ar$e and make something . . . . and to hopefully help them avoid making the same mistakes I have !!!

[Cunning Plan]

to encourage other people to get off their ar$e and make something

Yeah?! Well, I did the Outhouse Office (http://www.mkb.cc/forum/index.php?topic=10404.msg163405#msg163405) project because of the interest I gained through your build threads, they honestly are interesting to watch the progress of various projects. 

Plus I like the idea of building and making things, a lot. I would do more of it, if I actually owned my own property. There is no way I am improving someone else's house whilst I am renting it 

[Roadkill]

Just to keep it up-to-date - Here's the rainwater pipe now.



I pick up the mixer tomorrow. 

[Roadkill]

I pick up the mixer tomorrow.

Slab laid. 







I also cast a concrete slab (while I was at it) for a back-step for the conservatory.



Next job is screed but it'll have to wait for some funds . . . .

[Cunning Plan]

That is a great job! 

With the Screed, can you just lay it on top of the cement you have just put down? Will it just bond to it?

[Roadkill]

Yeah, basically. 

I'll let the concrete go-off first, then sweep and hose-down the floor to make sure there's no dust or grit.

Most screeds are "self-leveling" (they're not, but close) . . . but most aren't suitable for garages. 
I'll be going for a Wickes one I've read about that's designed for heavy use - it's more expensive but it has fibres in it to help knit it together.  As a result it's even harder to level, apparently, so I'm not looking forward to that at all !!

After the screed is done, I can concentrate on adding a bit of bling in there. 

[Cunning Plan]

  As a result it's even harder to level, apparently, so I'm not looking forward to that at all

How thick will it be? (The Screed Art, the Screed  ).

[Roadkill]

Probably up to 25mm thick in places, but down to around 5mm if it all goes right. 

[Roadkill]

I've been treading water on this one as the next out lay is a big one (the screed) plus I'm not looking forward to doing it.

BUT, it has to happen . . . the garage was cleared of all the remaining crap at the weekend and has been treated to two coats of sealer (to increase the workable time of the screed).

I've also started putting in some timbers under the "outcrop" of wall where I removed the old floor from underneath it.  It's completely unsupported (just wedged in place) so need to add some support before moving much further (plus the timber was a freebie so that's good).

I've got a few bits to do but the plan, currently, is to screed the floor this weekend . . . I'm hoping one of the days are overcast as that'll also slow the rate of drying.

[Roadkill]

As I said, had been treading water on this, but starting spending all available minutes last week getting it ready for screed.

Installed some chunky timber under the wall that was hanging and filled the gap behind with crazy foam (timber and foam was left over from work jobs so FOC) 



Put 1 x coat of stabilising solution on the lower portion of brickwork (to prevent loose debris falling in the wet screed during application).



Put 2 x Coats of sealer (to keep the dust down) and 1 x coat of primer on the floor (ready for the screed).



Then fitted a steel (zintec) threshold plate at the front to give me a level to start screeding from and also to provide the roller shutter a nice seal . . . up to this point the door has closed onto the uneven concrete so draughts are common and even leaves manage to get under !   This shouldn't happen anymore with the new threshold plate.  Hopefully.

On to the screeding - about 30 minutes of prep, followed by 60 minutes of solid, frantic mixing and pouring by myself and Ian and :



Smoooooooooooth



I originally wasn't going to paint it, but with the amount of fluids the Caddy looses I'd be silly not to !

[Cunning Plan]

Very impressive finish. 

frantic mixing and pouring by myself and Ian and

Did you really just pour it? Did you level it in anyway using a tool?

[Roadkill]

Did you level it in anyway using a tool?

The screed is "self leveling" . . . It does some of the work for you because its runny but it does need encouragement.

When I'd done screeding before I mixed and poured myself and used a trowel to smooth it . . . . it was drying too fast so ended up being good for a first attempt but crap if it was on show (which is was never planned to be so O.K).

This time I used a spiked roller (it helps take the trapped air bubbles out) and that itself did most of the leveling work . . . . I used a trowel, really, only to blend the lines a little between the separate pours . . . . as Ian was doing most of the mixing there were little-to-no breaks between the pours so it all blended much better.

So, yes, I did use tools to level it but it does go a long way on leveling itself.

I order some floor paint yesterday too . . . went for a mid-grey colour this time, rather than a blue . . . Should make it a bit brighter in there when the door's shut.

[Roadkill]

Floor is now painted with 3 coats of paint . . . must admit, I wasn't impressed with the paint . . It was runny and the finish I got was barely satin, whereas it should've been gloss.

That said, I've got to crack on so the Caddy will be coming back in the garage (even though there's still bits to finish off in there) as the Camaro needs to come home.

[art b]

a nice job.....

 ive screeded a floor at my brothers self build,
 it involves tons of sharp sand and cement laid almost dry

what you have done there is poured some self levelling compound

here is some real screeding ......

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFH4b_bgd3E/youtube]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFH4b_bgd3E

[Cunning Plan]

a nice job.....

 ive screeded a floor at my brothers self build,
 it involves tons of sharp sand and cement laid almost dry

what you have done there is poured some self levelling compound

I guess you could consider RK's method a new way of Screeding?

If I achieved that kind of finish and it is durable, I would be very happy with it!   

here is some real screeding ......

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFH4b_bgd3E/youtube]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFH4b_bgd3E

Interesting. That guy has some skill!

[Roadkill]

Art, true.  Very true.

A misuse of the word indeed.   

CP, Proper screeding is done during the build (after the DPM) and can be - I believe - 100mm / 4" thick.  It's sand and cement, as Art says.  A lot of dwellings nowadays use this as a base for the floor (often a "timber" sat over polystyrene sheet arrangement).   

You'll be hard-pushed to find many screeders as good as the guy in the video, so often the finish isn't 100% . . . which doesn't matter if timber is being chucked down on top . . . if you want a very good finish (say for vinyl) it's normal to then apply self-leveling compund.

You basically get two types of this, one that's suited to a thin skim 3mm-12mm (for example) and deep base ones that are suited up to 50mm (per layer) . . . thicker ones often have fibres in to help "knit" them together (imagine fibreglass) but they are all applied in a "liquid" state, whereas screed mix is "solid".

But, yes, you can use self leveling compound in place of screed - you'd need to build the layers up if going up to 100mm but the biggest draw-back is cost.  Screed is made from 3 ingredients (sand, cement, water), two of which are cheap (sand and water), the other pretty cheap . . . SLC is expensive and, due to it's higher water content will dry much slower.

[Cunning Plan]

Art, true.  Very true.

A misuse of the word indeed.   

CP, Proper screeding is done during the build (after the DPM) and can be - I believe - 100mm / 4" thick.  It's sand and cement, as Art says.  A lot of dwellings nowadays use this as a base for the floor (often a "timber" sat over polystyrene sheet arrangement).   

You'll be hard-pushed to find many screeders as good as the guy in the video, so often the finish isn't 100% . . . which doesn't matter if timber is being chucked down on top . . . if you want a very good finish (say for vinyl) it's normal to then apply self-leveling compund.

You basically get two types of this, one that's suited to a thin skim 3mm-12mm (for example) and deep base ones that are suited up to 50mm (per layer) . . . thicker ones often have fibres in to help "knit" them together (imagine fibreglass) but they are all applied in a "liquid" state, whereas screed mix is "solid".

But, yes, you can use self leveling compound in place of screed - you'd need to build the layers up if going up to 100mm but the biggest draw-back is cost.  Screed is made from 3 ingredients (sand, cement, water), two of which are cheap (sand and water), the other pretty cheap . . . SLC is expensive and, due to it's higher water content will dry much slower.

Thanks for explaining!

That is a great finish either way!

[Roadkill]

Further to my repairs to the under-sink cupboard last September, there's been a change of purpose to that cupboard (all part of a much bigger master plan).

As such, the cupboard (that's never been the same after the "great flood") will have all its contents re-located to the main shed and will shortly be ripped out . . . . And replaced with a new cupboard and worktop !

Sounds daft, don't it ? 

 

[art b]

Further to my repairs to the under-sink cupboard last September, there's been a change of purpose to that cupboard (all part of a much bigger master plan).

As such, the cupboard (that's never been the same after the "great flood") will have all its contents re-located to the main shed and will shortly be ripped out . . . . And replaced with a new cupboard and worktop !

Sounds daft, don't it ? 

 

Brewery extension...?

[Cunning Plan]

Sounds daft, don't it ? 

With the amount of improvements and rework you manage to do, just imagine if you did buy your neighbour's garage, all that extra space to.... build, rebuild, build, rebuild!