Author Topic: MOT failure :-( (Read 1079 times)

Jamieg285 · « **on:** February 16, 2014, 06:57:39 pm »

I wrote all this out this morning, but I guess I forgot to click Post, as there's no sign of my thread.

Anyway, yesterday I dropped off the Camaro at the usual test station. The regular bloke wasn't there and was then pessimistic of getting a pass. I was right, but wasn't expecting what came back.

In ascending order of seriousness:

- No fog light - It doesn't need one, it's pre 1980.
- Headlights aim too low - they'd normally adjust them for me, I guess they didn't due to the list of other fails
- Side light not working - same as the previous 5 years - give it a wiggle and it starts working again

- Play in wheel bearing - easy fix
- Cannot open passenger door from the outside - Technically you could, but I accept that the handle is broken (and has been for the past 3 years

). Not the simplest of jobs, but I did get it done yesterday in a couple of hours, although I did manage to screw up one of the rollers on the window. Luckily I have a spare so was able to re-fit the window OK.

Now for the more troublesome bits:

- Outer sill panel excessively corroded - I knew this was coming, it's had a hole in for the last 3 years. I put a real bodge patch over it for the last 2 tests, but I knew it wasn't going to last. I have the replacement panel ready, but it's a pig of a job getting the old one out, it's spot welded to at least four other panels.

- Excessive corrosion in the suspension mounting points (front leaf spring mount) - both sides

I put the car up on jacks yesterday to assess the damage and what is required to sort it out. In two words - major surgery.

The areas in question are re-inforced 'torque boxes' that are welded to the floor pans. The front of the springs are attached to 'pockets' that bolt into the torque box. This mean dropping the rear axle to be able to carefully cut the boxes out, hopefully without damaging the floor pans, so that I don't need to replace them too.

It gets worse though. Many years ago I had some sub frame connectors welded in. Guess what they are welded to - that's right the torque boxes. They are attached to those and the front sub-frame, but also to a selection of points on the floor pan too. They will also need very careful cutting out so that they can be removed, without causing more work in the process.

I think it's safe to say that I won't be ready for the free retest next weekend

I've done some more assessment work and getting prepared today, and I think a job this big deserves it's own Project thread. Watch the progress (or lack of) at http://www.mkb.cc/forum/index.php?action=vthread&forum=2&topic=12150

FUBAR · « **Reply #1 on:** February 16, 2014, 08:15:32 pm »

Bugger, that's a list isn't it

how long do you reckon the surgery will take?

Incursus · « **Reply #2 on:** February 16, 2014, 08:18:33 pm »

Doh!

Roadkill · « **Reply #3 on:** February 16, 2014, 08:36:20 pm »

Hmm, that sucks. I hope you're a better welder than I am.

Jamieg285 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 16, 2014, 09:03:09 pm »

Quoting: FUBAR

how long do you reckon the surgery will take?

I honestly don't know, a lot depends on how much time I can get to work on it. Having young kids makes it difficult and it's the wrong time of year for working outside in an evening. It wouldn't surprise me if it's more than 2 months - I guess some of it depends on how long it takes to obtain the replacement panels - and I need to do all the extraction work first, so I know all the panels I need.

Quoting: Roadkill

I hope you're a better welder than I am.

So do I

I must admit, I'm not looking forward to it, most of it will be done upside down under the car

F Body · « **Reply #5 on:** February 16, 2014, 09:23:15 pm »

Quoting: Jamieg285

It wouldn't surprise me if it's more than 2 months

Jeeze looking at the pictures on your other post I was expecting you to say two years

ianjpage · « **Reply #6 on:** February 16, 2014, 09:36:49 pm »

Oh fiddle, not good that it's got that much that needs doing

Andy · « **Reply #7 on:** February 17, 2014, 12:10:08 pm »

Bad scene

Do you reckon this is from the leaky rear window that you ended up redoing?

Jamieg285 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 17, 2014, 12:25:20 pm »

Quoting: Andy

Do you reckon this is from the leaky rear window that you ended up redoing?

No, this was caused by the leaky guttering at the top rear corner of the door. Water was just flooding underneath the window seals and dropping down in front of the wheel arch.

I think I sorted that leak out a couple of years ago, but by then the worst of the damage was done.

I'll be adding in some strategically place drain holes this time, just in case.

F Body · « **Reply #9 on:** February 17, 2014, 12:37:11 pm »

I will cross my fingers that you can find some good metal to weld to

I once had a 1967 MGB GT which failed it's MOT because of sill rot, I bought new sills and out riggers and dropped it off a welding garage that had been recommended by friends (in the 70's every town had a welding garage).

Got a phone call that night asking me to pop in the next day to discuss a problem

Basically the whole floor pan had rotted out and they couldn't find any metal to weld to

Jamieg285 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 17, 2014, 12:52:49 pm »

I'm surprised to find that all of the affected panels can be bought new, although the shipping costs are a big stumbling block. The main body of the floor is actually pretty good, it's just the areas that have been affected have been hit hard.