Author Topic: Andy - Aux Belt (Read 1998 times)

Cunning Plan · « **on:** April 20, 2010, 10:49:52 am »

To replace the 'fan' / aux belt on the Mondeo, do you have to take the wheel off and the covers in the wheel arch? or can you get to it from the top?

I did it years ago but can't remember now

Andy · « **Reply #1 on:** April 20, 2010, 10:54:32 am »

Wheel off, lower inner liner off. It should be running either an idler pulley or a compressor for the air con. My knowledge on the Zetecs isn't great. Anything TD and I'm pretty sound.

Cunning Plan · « **Reply #2 on:** April 20, 2010, 11:59:23 am »

Cheers! As I thought..

It's an Idler pulley as I don't have A/C

May do it tonight, haven't done it since '07 (40k ago

)

Cunning Plan · « **Reply #3 on:** April 20, 2010, 11:59:48 am »

Quoting: Cunning Plan

May do it tonight, haven't done it since '07 (40k ago )

I change the oil every 4k-ish to be fair though

Cunning Plan · « **Reply #4 on:** April 20, 2010, 12:01:20 pm »

Quoting: Andy

or a compressor for the air con

So, how do you do it on the compressor if there is no idler pulley to nudge out the way? Is there another pulley to move?

Andy · « **Reply #5 on:** April 20, 2010, 12:14:13 pm »

Er hang on, I might be getting this wrong.

On the TD lump, if you're looking at the belt setup from the driver wheel well,
You have the main crank pulley, which going right will have an idler pulley, then goes up to the alternator, mounted on the rear end. Going forwards, you have the air con compressor. I believe on non-air con cars, there is an idler or delete pulley. Then running off of there is the fuel pump and power steering.

All i know, is to get the power steering belt off, i have to go back two belts. I'm looking at having to replace my PAS pump as it's leaking from the front bearing onto the belt. Does give that awesome slipping belt sound when gunning the engine mind!

philoldsmobile · « **Reply #6 on:** April 20, 2010, 02:08:07 pm »

Quoting: Cunning Plan

I change the oil every 4k-ish to be fair though

why?

under normal driving conditions there is no advantage to changing it sooner than recommended, i'm guessing 12k? doing it sooner is simply throwing money away.

lots of modern cars (such as dads pug 307) its 2 years / 20,000 miles. manufacturers dont get these things wrong anymore, thats why just about any car will do 200,000 miles, and seriously worn engines are rare, even at that sort of mileage - when did you last see a really smokey car? its not that often now.

suspension is the limiting factor on modern cars, it typically needs more work than the car is worth by 200k

EDGE · « **Reply #7 on:** April 20, 2010, 02:22:35 pm »

Andy, have you got a TDI ford of some kind ? I've got a couple of belts here that you can have on the cheap if you want, the timing belt and the injection pump belt. i bought them for my TDI escort,never got round to fitting them then the car was written off

I'll see if I can find them, I;m fairly unlikely to have thrown them away, they cost me over £50 !!!

EDGE · « **Reply #8 on:** April 20, 2010, 02:26:43 pm »

Quoting: philoldsmobile

why?

depends how long those 4k miles have taken to do, oil breaks down over time. The saleen gets an oil change every 10 miles or so

.....

talking of which, I need to order another oil filter....

Andy · « **Reply #9 on:** April 20, 2010, 03:17:22 pm »

Cheers Edge, but I bought Europarts out of all the belts I need, apart from the timing belt, but I'll be taking that to my indie garage as that can go so very wrong.

Did you ever do all the belt on your Escort? I'm looking for an easier way around changing the alternator one, but it really does look like I have to take off the front aux belts to get to the alternator one at the back

EDGE · « **Reply #10 on:** April 20, 2010, 03:32:53 pm »

i never changed any of the belts on the chavscort no, didnt actually do ANYTHING to it while i had it apart from reconnect the pipe from the turbo to the fuel pump....

Cunning Plan · « **Reply #11 on:** April 21, 2010, 09:38:32 am »

Quoting: philoldsmobile

under normal driving conditions there is no advantage to changing it sooner than recommended, i'm guessing 12k? doing it sooner is simply throwing money away.

Yes it says 12k but then it's 15 quid for an oil change and I've got one of these:

I hear what you are saying about cars lasting longer etc, but I also know of people that haven't looked after their cars and have blown up quicker so I may as well replace the oil when I can and pootle about..

Think it's because I am coming from the VW scene where the oil is also part of the cooling and so is important to change regularly

philoldsmobile · « **Reply #12 on:** April 21, 2010, 11:45:17 am »

what sort of oil are you putting in for £15?

you'd be better off buying decent oil and leaving it in for longer.

F Body · « **Reply #13 on:** April 21, 2010, 11:49:43 am »

Quoting: philoldsmobile

what sort of oil are you putting in for £15?

Indeed there isn't much decent oil for less than £30+ for 5 or quite often 4 litres now

philoldsmobile · « **Reply #14 on:** April 21, 2010, 11:51:23 am »

of the budget brands, Comma is about the best, but even eurolite comes in about £22 for 5l

add in another £5 min for a filter, and I just cant see what you're using that does a change for £15, Asda multigrade?. false economy IMHO.

Andy · « **Reply #15 on:** April 21, 2010, 11:58:06 am »

Quoting: Cunning Plan

Yes it says 12k but then it's 15 quid for an oil change and I've got one of these:

I NEED one of those.. keep putting off purchasing one cos of funds but will do this weekend.

Can they be used for engine oil and PAS fluid or am I being dumb thinking that you need two seperate ones?

Incursus · « **Reply #16 on:** April 21, 2010, 12:01:00 pm »

Quoting: Andy

I NEED one of those.. keep putting off purchasing one cos of funds but will do this weekend.

Can they be used for engine oil and PAS fluid or am I being dumb thinking that you need two seperate ones?

They are great!
I use it for transmission fluid and oil

Andy · « **Reply #17 on:** April 21, 2010, 12:19:04 pm »

Sod it, purchased one from Demontweaks. Should be here tomorrow in time for the weekend... now some £15 oil!

philoldsmobile · « **Reply #18 on:** April 21, 2010, 01:10:04 pm »

damn, I've cooked with more expensive oil than that!!!

The Selinia 20k for my car isn't expensive at all at £8 per liter, and thats the factory recommended stuff.. how much is the motorcraft oil?

i'd not even put £3 per liter oil in a lawn mower......

Andy · « **Reply #19 on:** April 21, 2010, 02:06:08 pm »

Quoting: philoldsmobile

put £3 per liter oil in a lawn mower...

Makes a horrible mess in a Flymo

Cunning Plan · « **Reply #20 on:** April 21, 2010, 06:13:51 pm »

Quoting: philoldsmobile

what sort of oil are you putting in for £15?

PartCo Unipart Semi-Synthetic

Cunning Plan · « **Reply #21 on:** April 22, 2010, 07:38:52 am »

Quoting: Cunning Plan

PartCo Unipart Semi-Synthetic

Approved to Ford standards on the labelling

Andy · « **Reply #22 on:** April 22, 2010, 07:41:40 am »

Quoting: Cunning Plan

Approved to Ford standards on the labelling

Good stuff! Do you run any of those engine oil cleaner things before you suck it all out? Am worried that if I do that, the scrapnel I have blocking all the holes in my gaskets will come out with it..

Cunning Plan · « **Reply #23 on:** April 22, 2010, 08:09:48 am »

Quoting: Andy

Good stuff! Do you run any of those engine oil cleaner things before you suck it all out? Am worried that if I do that, the scrapnel I have blocking all the holes in my gaskets will come out with it..

No way, heard they make more of a mess!

I also don't like the idea of running the engine before an oil change - which is 'advice' you always seem to hear. Problem with this is the oil is then flung around everywhere, in the journals, the head etc etc, so when you do drain it out, lots of the old stuff is stuck to the engine. The idea of a change to me is to let all the rubbish sink to the sump then drain or suck it out - job done!

Quoting: philoldsmobile

damn, I've cooked with more expensive oil than that!!!

Quoting: Andy

now some £15 oil!

Quoting: F Body

Indeed there isn't much decent oil for less than £30+ for 5 or quite often 4 litres now

Sorry guys, I still don't see the issue with buying oil direct from a trade-sales place?? Sure, it isn't Magnatec super titanium uber star mix with pubes from a unicorn expensive oil, but no worse than an oil ANY garage would put in if you took your car in for a service.

Take a look next time you are at a garage at the brands they are using - simple fact is - they aren't - they are also using 'trade' standard oils. Sure, you don't want some cheap cheap rubbish, but if it says 5W40 on it - it has to conform to those standards - which is the standard my engine requires. Even better, the Unipart 'brand' has the Ford 'ANXXXX' number standards on it - so it can't be that bad.

Question is. Why are YOU guys paying double for the same oil?

Andy · « **Reply #24 on:** April 22, 2010, 10:06:53 am »

In fairness the last oil I topped up with was some ASDA own brand, that was after driving six hours getting down to Somerset from up't norf. I thought I'd check the oil in the morning to find it was off the bottom of the dipstick. Boy did I feel bad. Bought a big bottle, topped her up, hasn't complained since. Hasn't had an oil + filter change in about 5 years but still going strong. TD Enduro engines are bullet proof!