Roadkill's 1983 Chevy Z28 - (Work Starts on Page 5)

[Ralph]

ITS HOME! And looks amazing!

Hope this inspires you to crack on with it!

What's the next move with it?

[Roadkill]

Next jobs are to check that the new engine cut-off switch is working, check the vacuum gauge is receiving a reading . . . . . . after those, there's some wiring that needs to be under behind the dash (IIRC) then more to be put in for the A/F gauges and sensors . . . then jack the car up to start re-re-re-re-addressing the exhaust.

Hopefully put some time in this weekend dependent on weather and child-wrangling arrangements.

[Roadkill]

Some good news . . . !

Cut-off switch is working perfectly and kills the motor while running, prevents battery drain when in storage and acts as an additional theft deterrent.  3 x !!!

Vacuum gauge is also getting a reading, too, so this'll help with the tuning later on . . .

Myself and Ian only got about 2-3 hours in on Saturday so Ian was working on wiring for the lighting side of the new gauges while I made up and installed this . . . . . . . . . . . . . . :



 . . . . under the dashboard - it's the twin controllers which'll be reading the A/F mixture.

Next jobs are to install 4 x relays for the new stuff, wiring to connect it all and then (maybe ) get the dash pad back on.

[ianjpage]

install 4 x relays for the new stuff, wiring to connect it all and then (maybe ) get the dash pad back on.

Yup that's the plan, install relays, few more bits for the AF modules and then yeah dash can go back on!!!

[Roadkill]

It'll look like a airline cockpit with all those new gauges . . .

[art b]

It'll look like a airline cockpit with all those new gauges . . .

 

[Roadkill]

I will, once the dash pad is back on. 

[art b]

 

[FUBAR]

This is looking even cooler than before

[Titsy]

 

[Roadkill]

After picking the worst possible day, weather-wise, on Saturday we (myself and Ian) did finally manage to get a few bits done on the Camaro.

Not earth shattering - but -

I purchased some black screws to replace those that held the cluster-pod to the A-pillar . . . turns out that they were perfect for holding the original plastic (upper) trim to the new (ally) trim on the doors - so the old, zinc, screws got swapped-out.

O.C.D +1 point.



I replaced the (again zinc) screws in the cluster-pod, and found one I couldn't fit previously (due to it being parked in a garage) so - technically - the cluster fitting was completed.

O.C.D +2 points.



And for anyone wondering about the "fishnet stockings" mentioned earlier - here's what they're for -

With all the ducting removed from the dash, it was previously easy to look through the vent-holes and see the (red) bulkhead and all the new wiring . . . My fishnets prevent this.



While I was faffing about with these trivial bits and bobs, Ian was finalising the wiring for the new gauges to enable the dashpad to go back on.  We'd previously modified the D/S front corner to allow a tight fit against the new cluster-pod so knew it'd fit . . . however I had a minor issue when I snagged my stockings (Ooo-er) but that was quickly resolved and the dashpad fitted and fixed down.

ROADHOUSE !!!



Next job(s) required getting under the car and I intend to make some timber ramps to do this (long story) . . . .

[Roadkill]

Updated list :

* Buy / Replace battery (purchase lined up for this month)
* Buy / install (exterior) battery kill switch (purchase lined up for this month)
* Remove existing exhaust system (long story - I think I've explained ?)
* Measure up for new pipes / design new stubby pipes
* Buy / make remaining bits needed for exhaust (bends, straights & flanges)
* TiG together and install
* Fit Sensors to exhaust, run wiring inside of car
* Install both controllers inside car in accessible position, wire up
* Remove D/S A-pillar cover, test fit new triple-pod pillar, test fit gauges
* Install 2 x A/F gauges, 1 x vac gauge to pods, run lines, install pillar
* Replace manual fuel pressure gauge under bonnet with take-off
* Install fuel pressure gauge in car, run lines to take-off and wire up
* Remove clutch pedal, mark up for cutting (it's never been right)
* cut/weld clutch pedal, paint and replace
* Remove rear harness points
* Design and make strengthened harness points
* Paint and replace
* Trim (and cap) bolts protruding on the underside of car (under seats)
* POR15 missed areas under wheel arches
* Front wheel liners (what to do) 
* Repair hood (I'll need to have a strengthening plate made, too)
* Respray hood (got the paint already)
* Investigate gauges (some behave oddly)

That's all I can think of for now . . . . Oh, yeah -

* Time / tune
* MoT & Tax
* Try not to crash it !!

[Incursus]

Try not to crash it !!

Yeah.. especially not on its first outing.. 

[Ralph]

That's got to be a couple weekends work! Surely?!?! :p

[Roadkill]

That's got to be a couple weekends work! Surely?!?!

You don't have kids, do you ?

[Ralph]

Not a chance haha so, with the kids multiplier... are we looking at 4 weeks or 4 years? :p

[Roadkill]

How about somewhere in the middle of those two ?

I'm hoping to attack the harness points and clutch pedal next . . should have a look at that this weekend - both will need a little fab work.

[Roadkill]

Got a few hours in yesterday with the help of Ian . . . I'm at a stage now where I need to get stuff laser-cut and fabbed up . . . Our workshop is totally rammed so I reckon there'll be quite a wait involved . . .



Still, lots of things off the list :

Updated :

* Buy / Replace battery (purchase lined up for this month)
* Buy / install (exterior) battery kill switch (purchase lined up for this month)
* Remove existing exhaust system (long story - I think I've explained ?)
* Measure up for new pipes / design new stubby pipes
* Buy / make remaining bits needed for exhaust (bends, straights & flanges)
* TiG together and install
* Fit Sensors to exhaust, run wiring inside of car
* Install both controllers inside car in accessible position, wire up
* Remove D/S A-pillar cover, test fit new triple-pod pillar, test fit gauges
* Install 2 x A/F gauges, 1 x vac gauge to pods, run lines, install pillar
* Replace manual fuel pressure gauge under bonnet with take-off
* Install fuel pressure gauge in car, run lines to take-off and wire up
* Remove clutch pedal, mark up for cutting (it's never been right)
* cut/weld clutch pedal, paint and replace
* Remove rear harness points
* Design and make strengthened harness points
* Paint and replace
* Trim (and cap) bolts protruding on the underside of car (under seats)
* POR15 missed areas under wheel arches
* Front wheel liners (what to do) 
* Repair hood (I'll need to have a strengthening plate made, too)
* Respray hood (got the paint already)
* Investigate gauges (some behave oddly)

That's all I can think of for now . . . . Oh, yeah -

* Time / tune
* MoT & Tax
* Try not to crash it !!

[Cunning Plan]

As a gauge pervert, this picture gets me

So, what have you got there from top left to top right? 

Also, to save me scrolling back through, where did you purchase them from?

[Roadkill]

So, what have you got there from top left to top right?

I dunno - I can't remember !!! 

Pillar Pod Top to Bottom : A/F Right Bank, A/F Left Bank, Vacuum/Boost.
Dash Pad : (Electric) Fuel Pressure.
Dash Plate (Main) L-R : Speedometer, Tachometer
Dash Plate (Small) L-R : Voltmeter, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Fuel Gauge.

Also, to save me scrolling back through, where did you purchase them from?

Most were Autometer, so were a boxed kit on eBay (U.S), the rest from Summit (don't tend to use Jegs anymore).  A/F Gauges were from somewhere else (I'd need to scroll back through myself) !!

Switches and warning lights were from Vehicle Wiring Products.

On a side note, I've sent the drawings to the workshop of the bits I need so will just have to sit and wait, now. 

[Cunning Plan]

Pillar Pod Top to Bottom : A/F Right Bank, A/F Left Bank, Vacuum/Boost.
Dash Pad : (Electric) Fuel Pressure.
Dash Plate (Main) L-R : Speedometer, Tachometer
Dash Plate (Small) L-R : Voltmeter, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Fuel Gauge.

Nice, although, having the A/F meters one over the other would poke at my OCD as it is like having more importance of one over the other. However, I am not sure where else you would put them, it's pretty crowded! :huh:

Most were Autometer, so were a boxed kit on eBay (U.S), the rest from Summit (don't tend to use Jegs anymore).  A/F Gauges were from somewhere else (I'd need to scroll back through myself) !!

Switches and warning lights were from Vehicle Wiring Products.

Noted.


Why is the light switch not straight?

[Roadkill]

However, I am not sure where else you would put them

Exactly, there's really nowhere else.

Why is the light switch not straight?

The push/pull switch is also a potentiometer that controls the dimness of the dashboard lights (so it will only be straight if the lights are totally dim in the dash)

[Cunning Plan]

The push/pull switch is also a potentiometer that controls the dimness of the dashboard lights (so it will only be straight if the lights are totally dim in the dash)

Aha, the Cherokee's switch is similar, but the rotation controls the interior lights and brightness. Although the symbol is less annoying to be at an angle (similar to this):

[Ralph]

Has this car not been finished yet? :p

[Roadkill]

No. 

No further progress.

It's been my busiest year at work ever, added to the fact that - due to various reasons - the work scheduled on the house in 2016 has been pulled forward to now.

I don't have a lot of spare time at the moment, but what I do, I'm spending on the house.

The Camaro (and Cadillac) (and bike) will have to wait . . . Unfortunately.