Help - removing stripped torx bolt?

Started by Jamieg285, November 29, 2011, 08:42:30 AM

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Jamieg285

I'm currently trying to remove and replace the rear seat belts. The first side put up a bit of a fight, but I did get the bolt out cleanly. The other side though is a different story.

I've managed to get the bolt moving, and about 1/2 out, but I've now stripped the splines in the bolt and I can't get the Torx bit to grip it any more.

What can I do to get this bolt out?

art b

weld a nut onto it...?
the heat may encourage the car to release its grip on the bolt as well..!

shape the top of the bolt with a grinder, so you can get a spanner on it..?
This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

Cunning Plan

The main thing is you have some of it showing at the top.

Can you grind off two sections from the bolt-head and get some mole-grips on there?
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Cunning Plan

Quoting: art b
shape the top of the bolt with a grinder, so you can get a spanner on it..?


That's what I meant.. Quit stealing my ideas
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

art b

feck you.. mole grips are for monkeys....
This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

Andy

Stripped out one of these buggers on the rear brake calipers of my Mondeo. No chance of getting a grinder on it, too well placed for a welder. Left me the only option of patience and a cold chisel + hammer. Dig yourself a little groove and then give it what for!

Turns out the bolt clears the other side of the calipers and the threads get thoroughly corroded. So it basically seizes itself in there. You may have a similar situation under the chassis.

Andy

Quoting: art b
mole grips are for monkeys...


Don't think anyones ever seen a picture of CP, and they now have some pretty smart monkeys accessing t'internet now!

Roadkill

Quoting: Jamieg285
I'm currently trying to remove and replace the rear seat belts


Quoting: Andy
the bolt clears the other side . . . .  it basically seizes itself in there. You may have a similar situation under the chassis.


T'is normally the case with seatbelt bolts (had similar issues with the third gen).

Although late, now - it's best to start by stripping all the rust and 30 year old underseal and road grit off of the back of the threads FIRST or as you undo the bolts it drags it in, increases friction and chews the thread.

art b

Quoting: Andy

Don't think anyones ever seen a picture of CP, and they now have some pretty smart monkeys accessing t'internet now!


ive meet him a few times....hes no smart monkey...
This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

Cunning Plan

Quoting: art b
feck you.. mole grips are for monkeys....


What about a monkey wrench...

Quoting: Andy
Don't think anyones ever seen a picture of CP, and they now have some pretty smart monkeys accessing t'internet now!


No one has seen you either monkey boy

Quoting: art b
ive meet him a few times....hes no smart monkey...


Hey!
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Andy

Quoting: Cunning Plan
No one has seen you either monkey boy  


I've made myself known, thank you very much.

art b

Quoting: Jamieg285

I've managed to get the bolt moving, and about 1/2 out,



you could possibly cut of the head,
put a slot in the bolt and turn it back thru the floor,from whence it came [after soaking with wd40] with a screw driver or a similar technique.[sp]
This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

art b

This forum needs, ''YOU'' posting,Not just reading ! :moon:

Jamieg285

Not yet, smashed my finger in a sliding door and am waiting for the swelling to go down before I tackle any more jobs.