Finally!

[FUBAR]

I've just noticed that T-Bar panel that Hawks sell is Stainless!!

so less POR-15'ing needed.  My new one was an Original GM one so did need the extra protection.

[Andy]

Quoting: FUBAR

don't expect it to stop the front corner of the T-tops leaking though

Just been watching this video:



If you skip to 21:00 he talks about the front corner where he continuously pours glue down into the front corners until it comes through. Did you do this on yours?

[FUBAR]

That is behind the seal, What I meant is it leaks through between the seal mounted on the t-top panel and the seal mounted to the body, it's just a straight join.

Not a bad idea though.

[Roadkill]

Quoting: Andy

Right, haven't updated this thread in ages

You're forgiven.  Just don't do it again.  

[Andy]

Quoting: Roadkill

You're forgiven. Just don't do it again.  

Sorry!

But seeing as you've chimed in, now you can help! The exterior weather strip on the top of the door, you can do that without taking the window out right? (please say yes... please)

[Roadkill]

Quoting: Andy

The exterior weather strip on the top of the door, you can do that without taking the window out right?

The sweeps ?

Hmm.

Theoretically I think you can . . . . although mine was very tight to get to some of the screws.

[Andy]

1AAuto (who I still hate after lying about there only being one bolt holding the parking lights in) reckon you can do it by just loosening off the glass guides. Hmm!

[Roadkill]

The window does sit proud . . . maybe loosening the guides would give you enough room . . .

[FUBAR]

Quoting: Andy

The exterior weather strip on the top of the door, you can do that without taking the window out right? (please say yes... please)

Yes just wind it all the way down.
The top of the glass will just about cover one of the bolts, but you can undo the bolt with pliers with the window still properly in place.

I had to drill a hole in the plastic triangle at the front of the door to get to the last bolt when I did mine, the hole is covered by the interior trim when re-attached though.

[Andy]

Quoting: FUBAR

I had to drill a hole in the plastic triangle at the front of the door to get to the last bolt when I did mine, the hole is covered by the interior trim when re-attached though.

I'm replacing one of mine, as thats what I believe has caused the initial leak, but think I'll take the other one out as well as I reckon I'll probably end up mullering it if i get the position wrong!

[Andy]

Wow! Having never used Rock Auto before, a 3 day turn around on part of my order has just amazed me! Especially as the email I received said that it was all to be shipped on the 3rd February! There is still one part in the system, so I guess that'll be the last bit to get here.

Have just ordered the Alston Bolt on SFCs after reading umpteen threads on how fitting these transform the feel of the car. So we'll see how they go in!

[EDGE]

if you're happy with the fit of the bolt ons, weld them on... over time the bolt holes seem to elongate and then they wont help much.... just rattle :)

I've got custom frame connectors on the Saleen and over a stock car the difference is utterly amazing.  A friend has a stock 98 and it bends and twists like a twinkie in the paws of a fat NY city cop.  

Andy had custom subframe connectors on his 3rd gen and it stopped most of the dash rattles as the shell was now stiffer.

[EDGE]

most... i mean it was still an 80's 3rd gen.....

i tried to explain what driving the fox body was like to someone who owns a 2007 Saleen....

I said it was exactly the same as his brand new Saleen, just imagine someone had gone though the entire car loosening EVERY nut/bolt/screw clip by 2 turns!!

[Roadkill]

I must admit - the SFC's on mine do a good job . . . but the welding on them is diabolical (not mine) !

[Andy]

Who welded them in? Just so I can avoid them!

These one have cups either end that make it a really snug fit at the end of each frame. Will look into welding them in though!

Next on the list, understand rear suspension and making it better for launches!

[Roadkill]

Quoting: Andy

Who welded them in? Just so I can avoid them!

Dunno - the guy (and others ?)  who had the car before me were clearly butchers . . . although she looked good on the outside the electrics were utterly chopped up and the SFC's pigeon-shit welded . . .

Unfortunately It's too much work to remove them . . . and they do work.

Thankfully all other traces of previous bodges have now been removed from my Z28.  

[Andy]

Well a pretty productive day, wasn't going to go an do any work today as it was so bloody miserable out but I got bored of doing nothing so just put on an extra jumper and went to the workshop.

Thursday my first bit of weather stripping turned up, and really this bit is just an appearance thing more than anything, but it all makes the difference!


The old, very cracked and very mouldy weather strip.


The interesting switchgear which has two real screws holding it on, then two fake ones.


New weather strip in place on drivers side.


Passenger door which has already had someone in there.


Passenger side done.


New vs. Old comparison


Old quarter light that had been causing me a lot of issues with it not sealing.


Something weird was going on, which then ruined the door seal on the car.


'New old' quarter light that I got off a guy from Oxford when I went to look at his Iroc. Has a bit of red paint on it that I need to get off, but the seal against the door is so so much better!

[Roadkill]

Quoting: Andy

The interesting switchgear which has two real screws holding it on, then two fake ones.

(As will most or all of your dashboard)

Those Triangle bits - as I'm sure you noticed - are adjustable . . . they can make the difference between the door closing too easily (not forming a seal) and not wanting to close at all.

Looking good.  

[Andy]

Quoting: Roadkill

Those Triangle bits - as I'm sure you noticed - are adjustable . . . they can make the difference between the door closing too easily (not forming a seal) and not wanting to close at all.

Yeah, I noticed that once I reinstalled the one I replaced. The drivers side I didn't remove the bracket that has the two studs on it, so it went back into the same place.

Next bit will be the T-top seals, which if I'm honest, I'm bricking a bit. Anything metal like I know can be fixed, but rubber bits and plastics break. Will see how I get on, the painting of the nose cone got pushed back to this week.

[art b]

good jobs done...

nice workshop too...

[Andy]

Quoting: art b

nice workshop too...

My dad has pretty much kicked me off the drive at home as he's fed up of opening the garage door and finding his Epco jack in the way. So I've moved all my tools and stuff out into this unit. Very nice, not too cold and loads of room to work around.

Also has a CNC mill in it, just no power to it as yet!

[Andy]

I really want an LSD for this thing and I'm just trying to now work out the best way of doing it.

Emailed Webster and they came back with a list of prices for an auburn unit but said that it wasn't really the sort of work they're concentrating on.

Today I've just rung Hauser and asked for some details and recommendations. Geoff has recommended a Tru Trac unit, which features helical gears and is very smooth. It's not so much a limited slip diff more a torque sensing one that locks up when there is an imbalance in the driven axles.

His rough quot was £400 for the series 3 carrier, £185 for the 3.42 gears, £95 for the seal kit and £260 labour to fit and set up. That's with the axle out of the car. All of those are then plus Vat. So around £1100 ish in all.

Another option is wait for a Trans Am or that to be broke with a decent ratio and LSD. Not too keen on this as I've heard the third gen diffs wear out and by now are more than likely shagged.

4th option is go 4th gen rear end with the later type LSD units. This then poses the issue of wheels as the axle is wider and the wheels on a 4th gen have a different offset.

[Roadkill]

Quoting: Andy

4th option is go 4th gen rear end with the later type LSD units. This then poses the issue of wheels as the axle is wider and the wheels on a 4th gen have a different offset.

Urrgh, no - that'll look shite !

I was lucky . . . I think I picked up my Auburn Gear unit for £250 (or summin' like that) N.O.S on eBay.
I already had 3.73's and Webster charged me £275 (IIRC) cash - again that was out of the car.

Keep your eyes open . . . you could probably find a 3.42-73 axle for £100 on eBay or RnS . . . That'll save you a bit of £££ and also save you tearing into your car and having it on stands for a couple of weeks.

EDIT - I reckon you could find the other parts cheaper yourself, too, if you looked . . .

[Andy]

Yeah, I know I can get that Carrier cheaper from Jegs. I'm keeping my eye out for any Trans Ams or that getting broke, they're more likely to have higher ratio rear ends.

That's amazing that yours came with 3.73, that's pretty high!

[Roadkill]

Yeah, mine was originally a "H.O" option hence got the good gears.