Author Topic: Engine Noise - Any Guesses?  (Read 5306 times)

Incursus

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Engine Noise - Any Guesses?
« Reply #50 on: November 19, 2013, 12:49:07 pm »
Quoting: Andy
Or know what a shifter is.


Errmm  a spanner?

Roadkill

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Engine Noise - Any Guesses?
« Reply #51 on: November 19, 2013, 12:50:42 pm »
I know I'm an Engineer . . . . . 'cos my business card says I am !  


Incursus

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« Reply #52 on: November 19, 2013, 12:59:37 pm »
Quoting: Roadkill
I know I'm an Engineer . . . . . 'cos my business card says I am !


Dammit! I think mine say Consultant..


Not that I can find any of them...

Roadkill

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Engine Noise - Any Guesses?
« Reply #53 on: November 19, 2013, 01:01:34 pm »
Hahahaha !!  Win !!!  

Andy

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Engine Noise - Any Guesses?
« Reply #54 on: November 19, 2013, 03:57:04 pm »
Quoting: Incursus
Errmm a spanner?


1/2 a point... or lucky guess... hmm

Incursus

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« Reply #55 on: November 19, 2013, 07:55:14 pm »
Quoting: Andy
or lucky guess


Part guess, part vague memory recall, part logic...mostly guess

Cunning Plan

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Engine Noise - Any Guesses?
« Reply #56 on: November 26, 2013, 08:36:01 pm »
Okay engineers, a question for you

The water pump pulley-wheel is fixed to the pump with x3 Torx or Spline screws, I can't remember which. It looks a little like this:



All of them look a little corroded, so I am considering removing the water-pump from the block, then drilling out the pulley-wheel screws and replacing them with nuts and bolts with a good allowance of locktite.

Are there any issues with me doing this?

I should point out that I need the pulley-wheel to go on to the new pump.
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art b

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« Reply #57 on: November 26, 2013, 10:52:35 pm »
i would imagine that bolts with spring washers will suffice ..
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F Body

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« Reply #58 on: November 27, 2013, 07:47:54 am »
Quoting: art b
bolts with spring washers will suffice .



Quoting: Cunning Plan
with a good allowance of locktite.


:plus2:


Roadkill

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Engine Noise - Any Guesses?
« Reply #59 on: November 27, 2013, 10:33:17 am »
Quoting: Cunning Plan
All of them look a little corroded, so I am considering removing the water-pump from the block, then drilling out the pulley-wheel screws and replacing them with nuts and bolts with a good allowance of locktite.


No issues, providing you have clearance for the longer bolts.

Seems overkill if they're just a bit corroded, though . . . could end up being an unnecessary can of worms.

Can you not just re-tap the holes and wire-brush the bolts ?


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« Reply #60 on: November 27, 2013, 12:33:17 pm »
Quoting: F Body
:plus2:

Quoting: art b
i would imagine that bolts with spring washers will suffice ..


Roger.

Quoting: Roadkill
No issues, providing you have clearance for the longer bolts.


Yes, there is quite a bit of space.

Quoting: Roadkill
could end up being an unnecessary can of worms.




Quoting: Roadkill
Can you not just re-tap the holes and wire-brush the bolts ?


The bolts / screws are the problem, I think I will have to get the pulley in my vice and drill it out as the head seems 'fragile'. One of them is not rounded though.... Yet! I noticed it seemed to be giving and not in a good way, so I stopped attempting to take the pulley off in situ with the engine.

Then I thought that bolts and nuts would be much more secure and better should I have to remove it again
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
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Roadkill

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Engine Noise - Any Guesses?
« Reply #61 on: November 27, 2013, 12:42:06 pm »
Quoting: Cunning Plan
The bolts / screws are the problem, I think I will have to get the pulley in my vice and drill it out as the head seems 'fragile'. One of them is not rounded though.... Yet! I noticed it seemed to be giving and not in a good way, so I stopped attempting to take the pulley off in situ with the engine.

Then I thought that bolts and nuts would be much more secure and better should I have to remove it again


Fair enough - so not just corroded but actually pretty fooked.

Yeah, go with bolts, nuts and spring washers . . . I'd suggest you'd NOT want to use Loctite . . unnecessary, IMHO.

Andy

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Engine Noise - Any Guesses?
« Reply #62 on: November 27, 2013, 01:06:05 pm »
Quoting: Roadkill
Yeah, go with bolts, nuts and spring washers . . . I'd suggest you'd NOT want to use Loctite . . unnecessary, IMHO.


+1

Decent set of spring washers, jobs a good'un.

Haven't got any photos of the final install, but when we upgraded the cooling fan and radiator on the Mustang we just pulled out some some stock ?UNF bolt and spring washers.


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« Reply #63 on: November 28, 2013, 08:56:54 am »
Quoting: Andy
we upgraded the cooling fan and radiator on the Mustang


Loads of space in there! At least they thought about servicing when designing the car
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
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« Reply #64 on: November 28, 2013, 09:06:54 am »
I was thinking about finding a pulley to have as a backup in-case the drilling out of the screws does not go to plan.

I found the exact same pump for the same engine on eBay, yet interestingly, the fixings are bolts:



Which makes me wonder if a previous owner had the pump off at some point and replaced mine with screws rather than bolts, or the other way around.
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

Andy

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Engine Noise - Any Guesses?
« Reply #65 on: November 29, 2013, 11:06:04 am »
I'm getting a bit lost in this, using terminology such as screws and bolts.

So your pulley is bolted on to the propellar shaft of the pump. That is via threaded holes on the shaft, with no nuts.

You're planning on taking the whole pump off, drilling out the bolts, then replacing the bolts that have been drilled out with bolts and nuts?

Is that right?

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« Reply #66 on: December 02, 2013, 01:22:14 pm »
Ah sorry dude!

Right, when I say, 'screw' I mean a bolt with a spline-type head.

I cannot find a really good picture of it right now and I can't take one (in the office), but it is quite similar to this Torx one:

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b9/Torx_screw.JPG

Quoting: Andy
So your pulley is bolted on to the propellar shaft of the pump. That is via threaded holes on the shaft, with no nuts.


Correct!

Quoting: Andy
You're planning on taking the whole pump off, drilling out the bolts, then replacing the bolts that have been drilled out with bolts and nuts?


Correct!

Quoting: Andy
Is that right?


Am I right?
1968 VW T2 Bay Bus (currently being restored and upgraded)
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ (modern classic daily driver)

art b

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« Reply #67 on: December 09, 2013, 11:53:58 am »
you sorted it yet ...
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« Reply #68 on: December 09, 2013, 12:10:27 pm »
Quoting: art b
you sorted it yet ...


Nope

I'm off from December 16, so I can have a good look then. In fact, it is hardly seeping at all now, so I am wondering if it is wise to disturb it at all...
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art b

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« Reply #69 on: December 09, 2013, 01:28:56 pm »
you have two options...


1- if its not broken leave it alone...

2- if its not broken keep on fixing it ..until it is....


nb..
i tend to go for no 2
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Roadkill

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Engine Noise - Any Guesses?
« Reply #70 on: December 09, 2013, 02:00:08 pm »
Quoting: art b
1- if its not broken leave it alone..