Author Topic: the dart so far (Read 9537 times)

art b · « **Reply #50 on:** October 31, 2007, 10:15:36 am »

Quoting: Roadkill

Have you "cheated" there and welded a strip to the back of the new panel to help locate it on the old

yep

i cut a 1 inch strip and welded it to the rear of the new panel, as it has a curv in it it made location a lot easier,
ive welded it in the trunk to give it more strength, works a treat, and is unnoticable in the lower part of the trunk

sixpack2639 · « **Reply #51 on:** October 31, 2007, 11:07:10 am »

Quoting: art b

proper panels shipped by our man who can,carl....

'twas my pleasure!! Glad to see my hard work paid off too!!!

art b · « **Reply #52 on:** October 31, 2007, 11:27:35 am »

where would we be with out ya...............

the seals for the dart are great fella.............im sure were gonna all keep ya busy for years...............

Roadkill · « **Reply #53 on:** October 31, 2007, 02:33:38 pm »

Quoting: art b

ive welded it in the trunk to give it more strength, works a treat, and is unnoticable in the lower part of the trunk

T'is a good idea . . .

I've often considered welding up the Ma-hoosive gap between the inner and outer rear panels in Chris' Duster, aswell.
The gap there seems ridiculously large and most mopars I know of rot there when water runs in through the trunk/light seals and eventually ends up at the lowest point . . ie, there.

Roadkill · « **Reply #54 on:** October 31, 2007, 02:36:02 pm »

Quoting: Roadkill

Firstly . . what stonechip stuff did you use on the inner fenders and,

Secondly . . . When are you starting the Caddy ?

art b · « **Reply #55 on:** October 31, 2007, 04:18:24 pm »

with the inner fenders and most of the flat metal work,
i cleaned it back with a wire wheel, rust proofed it twice with granvile h/d rust cure, gave it a coat of hammerite,
then used tetroseal underseal, two coats of spray for the bits ya can see,
and two applications with a brush,underneath, one painted flat, the other weeks later, stippled on with a brush,

a good few hrs on a crawler trolly, thats why the car was nearly 3 foot of the ground...

i'll be round to do the caddy when this uns finished.....

[note to self; project cars are never finished]

Roadkill · « **Reply #56 on:** October 31, 2007, 04:56:19 pm »

Quoting: art b

tetroseal underseal

Is that the red coloured cans ? - Have tried it but they always clog solid 1/4 way through the can . . .

Did the Z28 in POR15 and am happy with those results . . . used Hi-cote underseal/stone guard on the hard-to-reach-bits.

Gator · « **Reply #57 on:** October 31, 2007, 05:08:41 pm »

looking good there Arfur dont forget to check the seals on the fr/r screens if theres any bathroom silicon get em out and refit

art b · « **Reply #58 on:** October 31, 2007, 05:26:24 pm »

Quoting: Roadkill

Is that the red coloured cans ? - Have tried it but they always clog solid 1/4 way through the can . . .

yep there the ones i stood em in a bucket of hot water, b4 use and during coats to keep it free flowing, seemed to work and i got em cheap at a local discount store,

steve
removed the trim around the screens, and they seem all sound there were no leaks, will i need extra sealant when the trims go back...?

Gator · « **Reply #59 on:** October 31, 2007, 09:05:27 pm »

Quoting: art b

steve
removed the trim around the screens, and they seem all sound there were no leaks, will i need extra sealant when the trims go back...?

sounds all ok then every yank i have had has had some silicon somewhere round the stationary glass

you wont need more but i expect your trim clips have seen better days they can be a pain to fit with the glass in place

art b · « **Reply #60 on:** October 31, 2007, 09:18:39 pm »

took bloody hrs to rem the trim.

......had to prise the clips back a bit and ease the trim away from them pesky clips......

Gator · « **Reply #61 on:** October 31, 2007, 09:34:43 pm »

Quoting: art b

took bloody hrs to rem the trim.......had to prise the clips back a bit and ease the trim away from them pesky clips......

been there, the trick is getting the trim back on and not scuffing your new paint

make sure the clips are fitted before you paint coz its easy to slip pushing the buggers on

a smear of waxoyl around the window pinch weld aint a bad idea either

art b · « **Reply #62 on:** November 01, 2007, 10:10:24 am »

good ideas and sobering thoughts there...

philoldsmobile · « **Reply #63 on:** November 01, 2007, 08:27:18 pm »

Quoting: Gator

sounds all ok then every yank i have had has had some silicon somewhere round the stationary glass

why do the yanks find it so hard to weatherproof a vehicle?

the 'stang is the first 100% watertight yank i've owned....

55starchief · « **Reply #64 on:** November 01, 2007, 08:29:09 pm »

Quoting: philoldsmobile

why do the yanks find it so hard to weatherproof a vehicle?

not just yanks, my brothers fiesta leaked like a damn sieve

philoldsmobile · « **Reply #65 on:** November 01, 2007, 08:45:10 pm »

yeah? its only been yanks for me so far that have leaked, even my 59 zodiac was watertight...

Gator · « **Reply #66 on:** November 01, 2007, 09:13:20 pm »

the problem is they were a bit slapdash applying the adhesive and you ended up with an uneven line with pooling areas for water to sit that then eats into the poor paint along the pinchweld and you have a leak

the front on my 68 was only held in with bath silicon and took about a minute to remove

art b · « **Reply #67 on:** November 01, 2007, 10:11:13 pm »

seen many a resto stop in its tracks because of rot around the screens , not the easiest repair either.......

mine was surprisingly rot free, twas painted around 6 years ago........at least twice

Roadkill · « **Reply #68 on:** November 02, 2007, 08:42:38 am »

I've had screen leaks on my '57 Hawk . . . That had wrap-around screen that used to hold water near the A-posts. Obviously over time the rubbers rotted.

I'll be the first to admit I used Black Silicone on those. The other option was to let it keep pouring in and rot the floor out and ruin the new carpet I'd just put in.

When you're on a budget and it's your daily car it's horses for courses . . . . I'd happily do it again without a second thought . . . . .

In fact I have done it since . . . The rear screen on the Z28 leaked like a bitch, filling up the trunk, and after speaking to Ryan concluded there was no way I could remove the lower section from the glass without risk of breaking the glass.

I eventually cleaned the area and added a thin bead of clear silicone between masks.
Looks subtle and I now have a dry trunk to look forward to over winter.

Gator · « **Reply #69 on:** November 02, 2007, 05:29:53 pm »

Quoting: Roadkill

I've had screen leaks on my '57 Hawk . . . That had wrap-around screen that used to hold water near the A-posts. Obviously over time the rubbers rotted.

I'll be the first to admit I used Black Silicone on those. The other option was to let it keep pouring in and rot the floor out and ruin the new carpet I'd just put in.

When you're on a budget and it's your daily car it's horses for courses . . . . I'd happily do it again without a second thought . . . . .

In fact I have done it since . . . The rear screen on the Z28 leaked like a bitch, filling up the trunk, and after speaking to Ryan concluded there was no way I could remove the lower section from the glass without risk of breaking the glass.

I eventually cleaned the area and added a thin bead of clear silicone between masks.
Looks subtle and I now have a dry trunk to look forward to over winter.

the silicon eats the rubber dean and means the screen will have to come out eventualy coz the leak will get bigger and bigger next time just squirt some screen bond in and around it costs the same per tube as bathroom sealer so you may as well use the proper stuff

art b · « **Reply #70 on:** February 21, 2008, 11:28:09 am »

i have been prepin the doors trunk and hood for priming soon ..

and have a compresser and spray gun, keepin am eye on this on flegay wot do ya think.....

wot should be lookin for with use with hi build primer

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SATA-KLC-Primer-Spray-Gun_W0QQitemZ170194922990QQihZ007QQcategoryZ30923QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

55starchief · « **Reply #71 on:** February 21, 2008, 11:30:08 am »

Yeah that should work nicley mate, just make sure you get a regulator

art b · « **Reply #72 on:** February 21, 2008, 10:51:02 pm »

i have a small reg, but might get another from flebay

Gator · « **Reply #73 on:** February 22, 2008, 07:16:51 am »

got one of them mate to do mine

should do the job nicely

art b · « **Reply #74 on:** March 02, 2008, 07:08:53 pm »

as it has been relatively good weather this weekend ive stripped both doors of;
the glass,handles locks and weather stripping,

removed the stripes and flatted the paint down with a combination of paper and scotchbrite pads

before work,

work in progress,

scotchbrite pads fittted to DA and orbital sander,
and they are only 30p each

finished item

how come dispite having two garages,i manage to fill em with stuff