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http://videos.streetfire.net/video/6c7f4de1-8ef0-43a6-8a4d-9879016a9914.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://videos.streetfire.net/video/6c7f4de1-8ef0-43a6-8a4d-9879016a9914.htm

Just how quick is that blown Viper chase car though!!!!!!!!

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4314290&posted=1#post4314290post4314290\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4314290&posted=1#post4314290post4314290

Quoting: James@KB

810 HP/745 FT/LB KENNE BELL BIG BORE 2.8H SHELBY GT 500 KIT


On November 9th Kenne Bell made history. Our new 2.8H("H" for 2.0 high pressure ratio) Big Bore Twin Screw kit recorded an incredible 810 hp and 745 ft/lbs(SAE corrected). Our Earl's Automotive test car was 100% stock except for cooler plugs, a Kenne Bell boost-a-pump and optional throttle body and inlet system. That's with a stock fuel system (lines, rails, pumps and injectors) through stock cats and exhaust. No headers, cams, nitrous etc., only the 2.8H kit. All with an ultra efficient, compact and lightweight 2L series Twin Screw. The supercharger itself is so efficient that bolting on the big discplacement 2.8H with the same size stock 3" pulley increased power by 125hp(606 vs 481) over the Eaton 122 (2.0L). Same pulley size - same tune. Only a kit change with 100% stock car. The kits HP range is 568 - 810. Preliminary tests indicate it can make 725 hp on pump gas at 16 psi. The new supercharger is so efficient that 1 psi of boost is 25 hp. Remember the "H" series requires less engine HP to drive, By upgrading pulleys(12-20 psi) and optional inlet components(throttle body and cool air kit) there's plenty of room to grow.
Preliminary testing indicates the Shelby makes 725HP on pump gas at only 16 psi and 810 hp at 19 psi. The unusually high HP output is possible because of the 2.8 H's radical 2.0 internal pressure ratio. Other 2.2, 2.3 and 2.4 Twin Screws use a 1.4 built in internal pressure ratio. The new design Kenne Bell 2.8H consumes up to 40 less engine HP to drive, that means 40 more rear wheel HP at the SAME boost. Discharge air temps is also 30 degrees cooler at high boost levels. These two 2.8H features(less parasitic HP loss and lower air temps) are responsible for it's unusually high HP levels.
Equally important to the overall high effeciency of the kit is the cavernous high flow 1000 hp + inlet and a huge new Kenne Bell dual 75mm throttle body.Both were developed on our new 1000 hp flow bench.
Our goal was to engineer a flexible kit with a compact lightweight, highly efficient - low parasitic loss billet twin screw that would make all the HP 99% of our customers would ever need. 810 hp and 670 ft/lbs at only 2500 rpm is more than enough to exceed the design limits of the stock engine and drive train.
Literature and Tech Tips will be posted on our website on Dec. 15th. or sooner. Next we'll gut the cats and test headers, exhaust and cams on the dyno and drag strip. Earl will be doing all the driving. The "Shelby Tech Tips" will include everything we've learned about the car's fuel system, ignition, clutch, inlet system, calibration etc. along with 50 dyno tests from the stock 444hp / 428 ft/lbs to 810 hp / 745 ft/lbs.
We have 2 months of development time and over 500 dyno runs on the Shelby. It is the most exciting, efficient and insanely powerful production engine we've ever done a kit for. By comparison, our GT Supercar made 710hp with a 2.3 Lysholm and Kenne Bell HCD Drive Conversion with 2 1/2 pulley. The KB 2.8 H Shelby made 810 with the same 2 1/2 pulley, throttle body, tune etc.The heads, cams and CR are also the same for both engines, the Supercar even having a perceived power edge with it's exhaust and dry sump. Yet the KB 2.8H equipped Shelby developed another 100 hp (810 vs. 710). The 2.8H is definitely capable of pumping 800 + HP into these engine. Kits should be available Jan. 15, 2007 or hopefully sooner. Again, our kits are designed so yu can customize the desired HP by selecting the pulley, cool air kit and dual 75mm throttle body. Tuner kits are also available and no problems with the pulley to hood clearance at the lower boost/HP levels. 25 HP increments from 568 - 810 with a direct bolt on on upgrade kit and all stock engine components.

The first dyno graph is the KB 2.8H Shelby kit vs. Ford GT Lysholm 2.3 kit with same 2 1/2 pulleys, same timing, and same A/F ratio.

The second dyno graph is the same KB 2.8 Shelby kit vs. stock Shelby Eaton 122 with same 2 1/2 pulley, same timing, same A/F ratio.

[My experience with E85:]

Quoting: Runn

My experience with E85:
1. Better power (cooler intake charge, higher octane and the fact that it is cleaning the engine pretty good).

2. Smoother power and better stability at part-load.

3. After only 50 miles the tail-pipe began to get a lighter color. It was black inside before, now it´s brown and very transparent. My pipe is chromed and now you can see the chrome on the inside as well. When I have driven the car for a couple of 100 miles more I will tell you if it has got any cleaner inside.

4. The sound from the engine is different. It sounds more powerful.

5. The smell from the exhaust is much nicer. I cant describe the smell, When the car is hot i dont smell anything wierd. BTW i drive without cats.

6. The ethanol is cleaner and does not cause problems and if used in an E85 mix it will promote better lubrication of the parts in contact with the mixture and thus, will increase the engine useful life and ensure a significant increase in fuel economy.

Will my O2 sensor work with E85 and high ethanol blends?
The O2 sensor is not an issue, all it cares about is if your at stoich combustion at low throttle settings, it doesn't much care how you get there, so no need to change it. There is a thread about this on this forum somewhere where i explane this... (see if i can find i later)

What about oil contamination?
Modern lubricants, especially the synthetic oils are much much different than the oils used during those studies, and modern engines run at higher temperatures today which will quickly boil any traces of alcohol out of the oil.

How much will my miles per gallon of fuel drop with E85?
The only negative to E85 is that it gives a lower fuel milage on a gallon for gallon basis to gasoline. The actual difference in energy content between straight gasoline and E85 is about 27%.
The drop in milage is not as significant as you would think based on that difference due to the higher effeciency of the ethanol as a high performance fuel.
The lower milage is not really a big deal, ethanol has lower energy per gallon but your reduction in milage is not nearly as large as that difference would imply. Due to the higher torque,you use slightly smaller throttle openings to get the same level of preformance, and due to the greater quantity of combustion products (more moles of gas) per lb of fuel the engine effeciency actually goes up slightly.

Will a wide band O2 sensor accurately read fuel air mixtures with E85 blends ?
To get an accurate AFR reading you need to switch the meter to Lambda or equivalence ratio setting rather than AFR. Most O2 sensors assume you are running gasoline and will report a stoichimetric mixture as 14.7:1 which is the proper value for gasoline. E85 has a Stoichemetric mixture of between 9.7 - 10:1 and a max power mixture of about 6.98-8.5:1 or so, where with gasoline it is 12.5:1-to 13.1.

If you must use an O2 sensor that only reports gasoline AFR information simply divide the numbers it reports by 1.47 - 1.50.
The O2 sensors would still work. They don't understand AFR, they only understand rich/lean. If you are using regular or E10 the stoich AFR is ~14.7:1 (as you well know) and when the O2s are switching, this is the AFR it is indicating. When you are using E85 (AFR 9.765:1), the O2s will still work, switching between rich/lean. It's just that the point they are switching at is 9.765:1. You have to know what fuel you are burning to properly interpret the information the O2 sensors are providing.
Lambda 1 is always Lambda 1 no matter what you drive your car on, the o2 sensor doesn´t care if the AFR are 14,7 or 9.765... it measures the available o2 in the exhaust gases.

Is Ethanol less corrosive than Methanol?
Methanol is much more corrosive than ethanol. It attacks certain soft metals that are not much used in modern fuel systems. Years ago, the carburators were made of un-anodized aluminum and if methanol fuel was used, you had major problems with electrolytic corrosion between the aluminum and copper components used in the fuel system, since they were in continous contact.

That sort of corrosion only occurs when you have a current path between the dissimilar metals AND, a conductive path through the fluid in the system.

In Brazil where they have run high ethanol fuels since 1939, they found that to convert older cars designed for gasoline, long before ethanol blends were common, needed several changes to convert the cars over. This led to changes in valve materials, piston rings choices, nickle plating of the fuel tanks etc.

Modern cars in the U.S. are designed for use with ethanol up to 10% concentration in the fuel. That has led to several changes in component materials over the last 30 years that the U.S. has used ethanol enhanced fuels. All modern fuel lines and such are designed with the expectation that some ethanol will be in the fuel.

What about fuel system corrosion?
Corrosion does not appear to be an issue with modern OBDII cars. They are all certified by the manufactures to be safe to use on 10% ethanol fuel blends, and industry insiders say they are safe for much higher percentages. You don't install components that are "sorta safe" with a chemical, you put in a fuel hose etc. that is ethanol safe for concentrations well above what you expect to use. Not to mention that folks have been talking for years about raising the ethanol level to 20% or more.

Many years ago there were studies that indicated engines that ran on alcohol ALONE as a fuel, had issues with lubrication and valve seat wear. Keep in mind, those studies were done a long time ago, when engine oils were much less sophisticated than they are now, and some engine manufactures in the 1940's,1950' and 1960's made stupid engineering decisions and did not use hard valve seat inserts like stellite in the cylinder heads. This resulted in valve seat recession problems if you did not have lead additives in the fuel to protect the valve seats.


To sum it all up
Why is Ethanol a better fuel ?
1. It has a much higher evaporative cooling power than gasoline so the intake air charge in the cylinder is significantly cooler that it is with a comparable mixture of gasoline --- that means higher VE.

2. Its octane as blended in E85 is about 100, its blending octane when added to gasoline is rated at 118, so it is a very cost effective octane booster.

3. Ethanol burns faster than gasoline but has a slightly longer ignition delay during the slow burn phase of combustion so the engine does not do as much negative work fighting rising cylinder pressures due to large ignition advances. The total ignition advance for E85 is almost identical to the ideal advance for gasoline so it does not cause the PCM problems when you mix them.

4. At proper mixture you actually are releasing more energy in the cylinder due to the higher quantity of fuel you can burn. ( Ethanol can burn effeciently at much richer mixtures than gasoline can) That means about a 5% increase in energy release all by itself.

5. Peak combustion pressures are actually lower for ethanol than for gasoline but the cylinder pressures stay higher longer, so you have more (longer) crank angle that is usable by the engine. This lower peak cylinder pressure also helps with detonaton control.

6. Theorethically, the gain is 5% just by switching fuel. 350 hp X 5% = 15 hp, plus what can be gained from timing.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602091\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602091

[First of all, what is E85?:]

Quoting: Runn

MORE INFO IS COMMING! WORK IN PROGRESS  :)





Soo you want to use E85?  I´m getting alot of question about E85 and i try to answer but i dont have the time to answer everybody. Soo i have put together some info for you... First the info you need and later a small howto.

There is tons of info about sparktiming and best AF to use with Gas but on E85 it is almost nothing, We have to work together here and share our experiences.


Be patient please, more info will be added  :)

First of all, what is E85?:
E85 consists of 85% ethanol and 15% additives. The additives vary a lot depending on where you live and time of the year. But roughly, the 15% additives is mostly made up of gasoline, additives that helps the engine to make a complete burn, additives that helps the engine start when it´s cold and additives to color the fuel and the flame (so you know what substance it is, and also to help you see that it is really burning).


(Positive) facts about E85:
1. It is not corrosive to the fuel system or the engine. This is a myth and ethanol is often confused with methanol, which actually have corrosive properties. I´ve run my car for well over two years on E85 without a problem. Some models before 1988 on the other hand may have some parts that is not ethanol resistant. If we are talking Volvo´s, then this mainly applies to the non-electronically injection systems such as K-jet etc. Most cars with electronical fuel injection (EFI) should be resistant to ethanol. Some people say it would kill your engine right away and that you should buy there racefuel instead (of course they say  :eyes: )

2. It is not as harmful to the nature/environment as gasoline or any other petroleum products for that matter. Ethanol is made out of renewable energy resources such as crops and trees to name a few things. The carbon dioxide that an ethanol powered car emits is not contributing to the greenhouse effect, but is taken up by the plants and is being "re-used". The carbon dioxide then goes around in a closed loop. Gasoline on the other hand is made from oil that comes from old dinosaurs  , plants and other stuff 100 000 of years ago, and it doesn´t take part in the closed loop but only adds to the amount of greenhouse gasses. Ethanol is also easily bio-degradeable if it should leak into our environment.

3. E85 is 104-105 octane and therefore it´s more knock-resistent and can tolerate more boost or a higher CR.

4. E85 cools the intake charge more and therefore it´s more knock-resistent and can tolerate more boost or a higher CR. And it also makes the engine run cooler and to some degree, even safer.

5. E85 is in most cases at least 5% more effícient than gasoline at the same lambda value (up to 25% more efficient on some cars optimized soley for E85). Mill your heads :)

6. Since E85 has very good cleaning properties as well as leaving behind a rest-product of water, it is cleaning the fuel system and it will keep the injectors nice and clean. The combustion chambers, valves, ports and the exhaust will also be clean(er), almost like the car had water injection.

7. In most cases it will cost less $/mile to run on E85.


(Negative) facts about E85:
1. Cars running on E85 have some trouble starting when the engine temperature drops below +5*C. Cars running E100 (not very common) have some trouble starting when the intake (the air) temperature is below +15*C. This is easily solved by using an engine heater in the winter, electrical or fuel-heated (this is recommended on all cars regardless of fuel to get better mileage, less wear on the engine and less impact on the environment etc., but that is another matter to discuss and will not be brought up here...). Some people also adds a little extra gasoline to the tank of E85 to help with cold-starts.

2. Since cars running E85 requires roughly 30% more fuel, a tank of E85 will not get you as far as a tank of gasoline and you will have to refuel more often. This is often disregarded by E85 users who learn to live with it because of the economical gains.


Technical facts about the mentioned fuels:
E85 requires 39% more fuel to reach stoich even if that is not what you may come up with when doing calculations based on the table below. This is because the injector flow is slightly different when using E85 among many other things I can´t really think of at this time (will be added at a later time).

Fuel ........................ AFRst ........ FARst ....... Equivalence Ratio ... Lambda
Gas stoich ................ 14.7 .......... 0.068 ................ 1 ................... 1
Gas max power rich .... 12.5 .......... 0.08 ................. 1.176 .............. 0.8503
Gas max power lean .... 13.23 ........ 0.0755 .............. 1.111 ............. 0.900
E85 stoich .................. 9.765 ....... 0.10235 ............ 1 ................... 1
E85 max power rich ...... 6.975 ....... 0.1434 .............. 1.40 ............... 0.7143
E85 max power lean ..... 8.4687 ...... 0.118 ............... 1.153 .............. 0.8673
E100 stoich ................ 9.0078 ...... 0.111 ............... 1 .................... 1
E100 max power rich .... 6.429 ........ 0.155 .............. 1.4 .................. 0.714
E100 max power lean .... 7.8 .... ...... 0.128 .............. 1.15 ................ 0.870

Ethanol reaches max torque at richer mixtures than gasoline will.
The term AFRst refers to the Air Fuel Ratio under stoichiometric, or ideal air fuel ratio mixture conditions. FARst refers to the Fuel Air Ratio under stoichiometric conditions, and is simply the reciprocal of AFRst.

Equivalence Ratio is the ratio of actual Fuel Air Ratio to Stoichiometric Fuel Air Ratio; it provides an intuitive way to express richer mixtures. Lambda is the ratio of actual Air Fuel Ratio to Stoichiometric Air Fuel Ratio; it provides an intuitive way to express leanness conditions (i.e., less fuel, less rich) mixtures of fuel and air.

As you can see from the table shown above this section, the ideal target AFR´s under boost for both gasoline and E85 are listed. For gasoline it´s 13.23-12.5, and for E85 it´s 8.47-6.975. However, with E85 you will not need to richen the mixture under WOT/boost as far as 6.975 or beyond. It does not need to be proportionally richer when compared to gasoline.

Why? Again, Because the fuel has a cooling effect on the intake charge and the space in which the combustion occurs. And at such a low AFR as 9.765 (lambda=1 on E85) or lower the fuel cools pretty good, don´t you think so?

Many people with some experience in mapping an ECU for use with E85 says that as high AFR as 8.5 or lambda=0.80-0.85 works well. No need to go to the extreme end of the useable scale to get safe power. It only uses a lot of fuel without giving any benefits.

E85 burns faster than gasoline at best mixtures so it is an inherently more effecient fuel. It also produces more exhaust gas for a give weight of fuel air mix giving higher average cylinder pressures inspite of lower EGT's. With streight E85 in a properly tuned car its good for about +5% power / torque increase. I suspect on a turbocharged car the benefit is larger.

Since you don´t have to richen the mixture as many percent (proportionally) as you have to on gasoline, you can make more power without having to use as much fuel.

How does ignition timing change on E85 ?
Timing on ethanol blends will not change very much. MBT timing for both gasoline and E85 are very nearly the same at light to moderate engine loads. At high engine load the E85 will want just slightly more advance. The big difference will be fuel/air mixture. The E85 will give improved torque with much richer mixtures than gasoline. Both gasoline and E85 will give best thermal effeciency at about 15% rich of stoich, so the equivalent of 12.78:1 on gasoline would be about 8.5:1 on E85, but E85 will continue to give better torque numbers up to about +40% rich of stoich or 7:1 mixtures, so on a utec you would want to richen up your WOT high load cells and add a tweak of timing to get the most out of E85 from what I've read. I run my car on 8.3:1 right now. I have tried much richer mixtures but i have not compared it on a dyno yet.

Quote:
Are you sure you don't mean that E85 will allow more advance?
Just passing on what I've found in the various sources. Logically you are correct, but one source says simply that MBT timing is the same for E85 and gasoline, and another report says at low loads the E85 and gasoline like the same MBT timing but at high loads MBT timing for the E85 is slightly more advance.

I suspect this is due to them not running ideal max power mixtures but cannot confirm it. Burn speed for E85 changes quite a bit with mixture, so if they were just a little bit lean or rich of ideal the burn rate would be lower.

Lots and lots of variables not well covered in some of the sources and in general they are focusing on emissions issues not max power torque so that would incline them to use less than best power timing advance. In a couple of the reports they also had limited control authority over timing and may not have explored the extremes very thoroughly.
I have also read that E85 burns much quicker than gas at rich mixtures soo if you have your timing advanced and go WOT you could get powerloss (And you micht not pick up any knocks) because of the burnspeed being to fast.


Economical gains:
So let me tell you guys about the fuel prices here in Sweden.
98 octane gasoline cost 12sek/L = $1.68/L = $6.36/gallon.
And 104 octane E85 cost 8sek/L = $1.12/L = $4.24/gallon.

Even that my car wants more fuel with E85 i still save money.

How about having a couple of extra fields in the info panel for each user, maybe under the avatar.

Such as one for what car they have and one for location.

I always forget which car goes with which face and which name and then to top it all a user name as well???

Plus knowing where people are saves having to ask

Quoting: Titsy

Now showing on BBC2 for all those who dont have digital...

Yep it was the last episode in this series I think.

So you got them fitted yet??

Quoting: Big Mouse

I've got LS1Edit and Efi Live for a 99 fbody but both are locked to the old PCM - which I still have - if there is any software guru out there who fancies a go at unlocking it give me a call.

How do you mean by locked??

I thought you just selected the year and it would work on any PCM (Vette/Fbody) of that year.

If you have no use for it, and it will work on my z/28 then I'd be willing to buy it off you. Guess it would be best to try it out first though.

Cheers.

Quoting: 55starchief

So back on topic, any more ideas where we could run this?

What about Shakespere/Avon do they hire the track out?

Quoting: Big Mouse

If you want to speak to someone who's done most of that on a 4th gen and learnt the hard way, give me a call. Me? I'd go with a 402 stroker from scratch if I had to do it again.

Cheers. Yeah I'd love to go for a aluminium 402ci from TSP, but it's the shear cost of doing it. Sadly I'm going to be fighting the finaces the whole way on this.

Quoting: Big Mouse

Example 1:Take lots of measurements before fitting LT's and lowering springs on the same car - I was constantly having to weld up holes in the collectors where they scraped over speed bumps

Example 2: Take your time porting the TB, for the very limited increase in power you might achieve you can can cause major problems for yourself if you take too much off in the wrong place

Are you sure you don't already have a trans cooler fitted?? I thought they fitted them to the +2000 models?

My's a 99, although I didn't know 2000+ had a tranny cooler as standard. .

Quoting: Big Mouse

I have a nice shiny SLP black tower brace for sale,

How much?

Quoting: Big Mouse

I might even have a ported and polished TB lurking around in the garage somewhere.

How much?

Quoting: Big Mouse

Or run a 150 shot of gas and get 450rwhp straight away

Quoting: Big Mouse

oh, and I have a spare rebuilt gearbox for when yours goes bye bye shortly after fitting the torque converter and drag radials

Yeah, it's not the stall that worries me but the higher rpms for the cam. There are some nice built tranny's in the US such as Finish Line Transmissoins.

Stall & Dr's will probably mean busted 10 bolt though :(

Talking tuning, does anyone here have anything like LS1Edit, EFI Live, HP Tuners or one of the hand helds for a 99+ Ls1 PCM?

Quoting: Titsy

If we run VBoxes while recoding then I can overlay speed and G's etc on the video.... Shold be able to edit them at work too....

That'd be a laugh. Although I'd love to see just how accurate the speed limiter is in my z/28.

Quoting: Giblets

Seriously though the perfect road for sprint testing is the A507 between Shefford and the A1 (M). It's where I hunt hot hatches of a weekend, and the road has 2 mile straights with lanes wide enough to overtake down the middle.

Yeah I drive down this road twice a day, once on the way to Cambridge and once on the way home.

Leighton Buzzard by-pass is the same sort of thing, but generally with less traffic.

The A507 is always bussy nowadays and although I haven't seen them for a few months often has mobile camera's on it.

Quoting: Roadkill

Cool, where do we sign up . . .

+1

There must be some more airfields though. I know there's one over at Bovingdon (Nr Hemle Hampstead).

The site is split in two halfs, saldy one side is know used (ruined) by a paintballing site. The other is used as an out door market. But the runway itself may still be for hire, not sure.

Quoting: ianjpage

Well new tires ordered yesterday for delivery monday, get them fitted and car tracked up, so prob end of next week (I hope!!)

Cool, well let us know when your ready to run and we'll have to set something up.

Should be a good race, the "Euro" Ls1's where only rated as either 295bhp or 288bhp depending on spec.

BTW - Where abouts are you? I'm in Leighton Buzzard.

Quoting: Big Mouse

I'll be up for that once the cars up and running again as long as we have spotters out for the men in blue I could always have my camera fitted in mine facing backwards.

Yeah sounds good to me

Although I'd love to go I think £150 is a little steep. My car is just a street car so it goes well enough on the street.

Would Avon be any cheaper?

Or maybe a runway. I mean Jeremy Clarkson seems to be able to hire a runway for his vids.

I know they used to do drag racing over at Northweldt (sp?) aerodrome. Maybe somewhere like that.

I think £50 is about the most I'd pay to drag race my Camaro at a proper strip, as it doesn't cost anything to go out to a decent road and run against someone for fun on the street.

Quoting: 55starchief

its a shame that the strips arnt so accesable, in the USA you could get all your buddies to gether and have the track to yourself mid week i dread to think what a day at the pod would cost, bloody good fun though and no waiting for a chavd motor to collect its motor up in a bin bag

I went to the Pod on a Jaguar day a few years back. Quite a few cars turned up but there was next to no queing, you could hot lap if you wanted. Think it cost about £35 per driver.

Quoting: ianjpage

Nope not as yet, currently in stock 305 bhp form !  

When do you think it'llbe on the road??

Quoting: Big Mouse

I'll have a go - I've got a 4th gen camaro too

lol, yeah I know all about your 4th gen?

Tell ya what if you want to run I'll get it on tape and will post it over at Ls1techvideos.

Should be a laugh, think the camcorder will need to be in my car though, won't see much of the race from yours unless you gie me a 10 second hit

Quoting: ianjpage

Hmm muss get the cobra back on the road!!!

You got any mods on it?

Quoting: Titsy

Would this be the one?

Pretty much.

The X road just to the left of the line is the main Leighton Buzzard round-a-bout. Heading right from there all the way to the A5 is pretty good. There are two turings off, Bilington then Totternhoe. Probably the best place to run is from Totternhoe all the way up to the A5 round-a bout (right of the picture).

There's more than enough room there to bang the 158mph limiter in a LS1 z/28 - so I've heard anyhow

The section where you've dranw the line would work well too. It looks like there's more than enough room to top 156mph in a V12 Jagaur XJS down that section, again so I've heard

[Any takers??????]

Quoting: F Body

I'm currently researching locations for some 1/4 mile testing, trouble is all the suitable locations around Luton are all known mobile Camera traps

I know some fairly decent roads if you want to run?

From a low speed roll will be eaiser, but if it's quiet then from a dig would be possible.

The Leighton Buzzard by-pass is very good. From Totternhoe to Dunstable. No turnings, no bridges, no houses no nothing just open black top and wide enough to go side by side.

A roll from like 20mph to xxxmph would be the easiest sort of race.

Any takers??????

BTW - what final drive ratio have you got in your Fbody? 2.73 or 3.23?

There's a place in Aylesbury and another not soo good in St Albans. The shops are called Top Gear and they custom fab exhaust in stainless steel using Powerflow mufflers.

My brother had one on his Land Rover 90 V8. It's really well made but they use a crush pipe bender not mandrel.

Also the prices seem to be getting more and more expensive.

Personally I'd look at getting an exhaust from the US. They tend to work out cheaper than getting one fabbed over here, plus they fit no problem.

Are you replaceing the mid pipe also?

Prochamber is probably the best mid pipe in terms of sound and HP. David Vizard has done a lot of good work on this. Failing that, it's a toss up between X and H pipes. H's tend to offer better under the curve performance and more old school muscle car sound. While X pipe's generally make a little better PEAK numbers and offer a more exotic racey sound.


There's awebsite where you can here clips of different exhaust. It's something like mustangexhausts.com

Failing that ask at http://www.stangne.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">www.stangne.com they should be able to help you out.

For the stang I always like the SLP Loudmouth when combined with CATS and a H pipe or Prochammber, very old school and loud. But might be a little too much for some.

Magnaflow make quite a nice setup as do Flowmaster.